Somebody posted a funny story here the other day about the WRONG way to drop anchor under sail, as opposed to using just the motor to position the boat and back down on the anchor. It got me thinking though - what is the "proper" procedure? There's probably lots of different ways to get it done right. I guess what I'm really wondering about, is not backing down on it. Do you just put out enough scope and hope it sets properly when the wind and currents exert some pull on you? For the record, I daysail a small boat and generally don't use my anchor. It acts as ballast 364 days a year, and allows me to anchor for 4th of July fireworks. In that situation, there are so many boats already anchored, that I don't feel comfortable sailing through them, and just motor to whatever location I choose to drop anchor. I've never gone directly from sailing to anchoring.
Dropping anchor w/ no motor
- Thread starter Ben16737
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Yep, hope it sets
On my old motorless Cal 28, I would sail into the wind, drop the main, run up to the bow and wait until all way was off, then drop. You are counting on the anchor setting as you are pushed back by the wind. It takes some practice to be able to "hit a hole" in a crowded anchorage, furling makes it a little easier, and safer, in case you drag.
On my old motorless Cal 28, I would sail into the wind, drop the main, run up to the bow and wait until all way was off, then drop. You are counting on the anchor setting as you are pushed back by the wind. It takes some practice to be able to "hit a hole" in a crowded anchorage, furling makes it a little easier, and safer, in case you drag.
down wind approach
I used to anchor under sail by sailing slowly downwind to the drop point with the ground tackle ready to deploy from the stern. It was a small boat (Mac 26) with light ground tackle and I would have the rode flaked out so that it would deploy without fouling. I would lower the anchor and chain by hand as I got close. Did I say slowly? When I felt the anchor dragging in the mud I would pay out the 30 ft of chain by hand so it did not mark up the fiberglass and then let the nylon run out by itself. The anchor rode would be tied off to a stern cleat to avoid fouling the rudder or centerboard and later moved to the bow. Another method that I have used is to set the anchor the usual way (from the bow), let the drift from wind or current pull me to the end of the line and then drop another anchor using my dinghy (kayak) as far downwind (or current) as I could reach. When both anchors are in the mud you can pull against either one to set both by hand or winch.
I used to anchor under sail by sailing slowly downwind to the drop point with the ground tackle ready to deploy from the stern. It was a small boat (Mac 26) with light ground tackle and I would have the rode flaked out so that it would deploy without fouling. I would lower the anchor and chain by hand as I got close. Did I say slowly? When I felt the anchor dragging in the mud I would pay out the 30 ft of chain by hand so it did not mark up the fiberglass and then let the nylon run out by itself. The anchor rode would be tied off to a stern cleat to avoid fouling the rudder or centerboard and later moved to the bow. Another method that I have used is to set the anchor the usual way (from the bow), let the drift from wind or current pull me to the end of the line and then drop another anchor using my dinghy (kayak) as far downwind (or current) as I could reach. When both anchors are in the mud you can pull against either one to set both by hand or winch.
Here's how...
When you get close to the spot, furl or lower the jib then turn up into the wind on the mainsail to continue to slow the boat but not to go into irons until most of the way is off. Drop the hook and already have enough, or nearly-enough, rode flaked out and stopped off if using nylon; otherwise, drop about 1.5 scope of chain. Blow the mainsheet and let the mainsail "flag" briefly as the boat falls off the wind; continue to pay out rode if needed. When the anchor catches let the boat head up into irons & drop the mainsail. Finish adjusting the rode for proper scope. The important point is not to let the boat "sail" with the anchor down. BEO
When you get close to the spot, furl or lower the jib then turn up into the wind on the mainsail to continue to slow the boat but not to go into irons until most of the way is off. Drop the hook and already have enough, or nearly-enough, rode flaked out and stopped off if using nylon; otherwise, drop about 1.5 scope of chain. Blow the mainsheet and let the mainsail "flag" briefly as the boat falls off the wind; continue to pay out rode if needed. When the anchor catches let the boat head up into irons & drop the mainsail. Finish adjusting the rode for proper scope. The important point is not to let the boat "sail" with the anchor down. BEO
There are no extra points for sailing a
boat with a working engine into a busy anchorage. Your new neighbors are not going to be thinking, how good you are, but how foolish. That is if all goes well, if you mess up I hope you have good insurance. When conditions allow you can point the boat into the wind, drop your sails, burn off speed and drop the hook. Once you feel it hit bottom and grab cleat the rode and let the boat come to a stop. The wind or current will swing the boat away from the anchor, give it a couple of tugs and let out desired scope. Give it another couple of tugs and then cleat it. Sailing away from the anchor is easier. Plan your scape route; you are most likely to be facing the wind so go ahead and raise the mainsail with the main sheet loose. Turn the rudder in the desired direction and go forward and pull on the rode until you are on top of the anchor. The boat should now be at a dead stop but pointing away from the wind in the desired direction. Pull the anchor and secure it. Go back to the cockpit and sheet in the main to gain way. In no wind or excessive wind against a lee shore use the engine that is what is for.
boat with a working engine into a busy anchorage. Your new neighbors are not going to be thinking, how good you are, but how foolish. That is if all goes well, if you mess up I hope you have good insurance. When conditions allow you can point the boat into the wind, drop your sails, burn off speed and drop the hook. Once you feel it hit bottom and grab cleat the rode and let the boat come to a stop. The wind or current will swing the boat away from the anchor, give it a couple of tugs and let out desired scope. Give it another couple of tugs and then cleat it. Sailing away from the anchor is easier. Plan your scape route; you are most likely to be facing the wind so go ahead and raise the mainsail with the main sheet loose. Turn the rudder in the desired direction and go forward and pull on the rode until you are on top of the anchor. The boat should now be at a dead stop but pointing away from the wind in the desired direction. Pull the anchor and secure it. Go back to the cockpit and sheet in the main to gain way. In no wind or excessive wind against a lee shore use the engine that is what is for.
You can...
kick on the engine anytime you need to get the points (if it's working)! Anyway, you don't have to do it everytime you come to anchor! In any event, if you drop the mainsail b/f you finish setting the hook, you have no ready power if the engine is out and you have to go again or abort. Would anyone really want to be trying to get the mainsail up with a crippled engine while you're dragging side-wise to the wind? Think about it. BEO
kick on the engine anytime you need to get the points (if it's working)! Anyway, you don't have to do it everytime you come to anchor! In any event, if you drop the mainsail b/f you finish setting the hook, you have no ready power if the engine is out and you have to go again or abort. Would anyone really want to be trying to get the mainsail up with a crippled engine while you're dragging side-wise to the wind? Think about it. BEO
Chesapeake Mud & Leaf Bottoms?
Ben, Some good advice for emergencies, but if you are sailing in typical Chesapeake Bay creeks, you should already know you will not always be able to set an anchor reliably (such as a typical small Danforth) the first or even second time on leafy bottoms. I wasn't successful until the fifth try with the engine and 7:1 scope in Dividing Creek off the Magothy last Saturday. My larger 22H Danforth storm anchor actually is harder to set in a leafy bottom. In typical mud bottom or sand & gravel either Danforth will usually grab the first time provided I use at least 5:1 scope. If you expect tostay overnight and not worry yourself or your neighbors; dig it in with the engine in reverse.
Ben, Some good advice for emergencies, but if you are sailing in typical Chesapeake Bay creeks, you should already know you will not always be able to set an anchor reliably (such as a typical small Danforth) the first or even second time on leafy bottoms. I wasn't successful until the fifth try with the engine and 7:1 scope in Dividing Creek off the Magothy last Saturday. My larger 22H Danforth storm anchor actually is harder to set in a leafy bottom. In typical mud bottom or sand & gravel either Danforth will usually grab the first time provided I use at least 5:1 scope. If you expect tostay overnight and not worry yourself or your neighbors; dig it in with the engine in reverse.
Danforth won't hold on 5:1???
Then you need a new anchor, preferably of a different type.
Recently this forum had long discussions about new anchor types. Those who cling to Danforths may be prone to cling to nothing at the bottom. There are many new alternatives with MUCH better performance. We haven't used our Danforths for years except as stern anchors.
Then you need a new anchor, preferably of a different type.
Recently this forum had long discussions about new anchor types. Those who cling to Danforths may be prone to cling to nothing at the bottom. There are many new alternatives with MUCH better performance. We haven't used our Danforths for years except as stern anchors.Danforths have lots of holding ...
power once dug in, but are not always quick to set. Quite honestly, I think the Danforth is much better as a bow than stern anchor. It's hard to fully set a stern anchor if the bow is already set. Normally, when one sets a stern anchor it's b/c you are in a tight place and sometimes have to take what you get on scope, etc. For that reason, a Bruce is a better stern anchor b/c it sets more quickly on less scope than a Danforth. The best bow anchor is probably a plow; so plow a' bow, Bruce a' stern if you want to stay put in a tight place. BEO
power once dug in, but are not always quick to set. Quite honestly, I think the Danforth is much better as a bow than stern anchor. It's hard to fully set a stern anchor if the bow is already set. Normally, when one sets a stern anchor it's b/c you are in a tight place and sometimes have to take what you get on scope, etc. For that reason, a Bruce is a better stern anchor b/c it sets more quickly on less scope than a Danforth. The best bow anchor is probably a plow; so plow a' bow, Bruce a' stern if you want to stay put in a tight place. BEO
I like to drop the anchor off the stern
if I'm sailing in and I don't want to start the motor. Just bring the anchor back to the cockpit before you come in to the anchorage, with plenty of rode, drop where you like, get a turn around a stern cleat, and pay out rode until the angle looks right , tie off and the anchor will set great. Of course, sometimes it doesn't grab and you have to go around again, just like under power. Be ready for that or don't try it.
if I'm sailing in and I don't want to start the motor. Just bring the anchor back to the cockpit before you come in to the anchorage, with plenty of rode, drop where you like, get a turn around a stern cleat, and pay out rode until the angle looks right , tie off and the anchor will set great. Of course, sometimes it doesn't grab and you have to go around again, just like under power. Be ready for that or don't try it.
no...
...you don't simply hope it sets properly when the wind and currents exert some pull, as you asked. Rather, you back the main to set the hook.
...you don't simply hope it sets properly when the wind and currents exert some pull, as you asked. Rather, you back the main to set the hook.
You need to understand two things..
You need to understand two things about anchor setting before you can really make these above water decisions. First, in perhaps 85% of the bottoms, you will encounter, there are two layers of substrate. The first layer is a relatively soft sediment layer that is anywhere from between 1 inch thick, in a high current area, to as much as 12 or 15 inches thick in an area of little tidal movement. This is NOT the part of the bottom you want your anchor buried in and holding your six figure investment but if you don't properly set this is the layer you'll be depending on! Second, there are two types of sets! I've learned this from watching boats that don't properly set an anchor and then diving on their anchors and comparing it to boats I have witnessed who did actually set the anchor or to my anchor. Diving on your anchor provides REAL data and not the false sense of security you get from a partial set in the top layer of substrate. An initial or partial set is just what the name implies. With a Bruce or a CQR this usually means the anchor is laying on its side and only partially burried in the soft top layer of bottom sediment. These anchors are NOT set! A Bruce or CQR type anchor needs to be vertical and buried so that all you can see is a little bit of the shank or none of the shank. To properly set an anchor the sail MUST be back winded with at least 10+ knots of wind, or the motor must be used at a minimum of 80% reverse throttle. Trust me from my diving experience it is a RARE occasion that an anchor properly sets without backing down or back winding! It's the bottom layer of substrate you want your anchor penetrated into and NOT the softer sediment layer. Many boaters feel the resistance of this partial set and stop there only to drag anchor and wonder why at a later time. Now many anchors will set and bury properly when the wind pipes up but there is NO guarantee at all. You should always SET your anchor and if it does not hold your boat at 80% reverse throttle it's NOT set. 80% reverse throttle on a sail boat is the rough equivalent of between 12 and 22 knots depending on the auxiliary power. Keep in mind MANY boat transmissions, especially v-drives, use a different and less aggressive reverse gear than the forward gear so your boat usually does NOT have the same thrust in reverse as it does in forward. Other factors also play into this reduced reverse thrust but suffice it to say that most boat have less power in reverse than in forward.. When setting with the motor it's important to pick a spot then drift slowly over and beyond it so you can then get the boat moving slowly, .5 to 1 knot, backwards. This is when you drop the anchor, but not all at once, let it hit the bottom moving backwards and the when you feel it hit then pay out 7:1 scope (water depth + bow height multiplied by 7). Once the anchor rode is taught, and you have felt the "initial set" back down gently at first to just at little over idle throttle to "seat" seat the anchor. If all feels good, and you are not dragging, at this point you should gradually increase throttle to 80%. Keep on it until prop walk has moved you about 10 degrees to either port or starboard. Now your anchor is set and you can reduce scope to 5:1 or even 4:1 if you have an anchor that can handle it or an all chain rode. I sometimes will let is sit for a couple of hours and then re-test before I turn in for the night.. Don't you want to know NOW that your anchor is set rather than at three in the morning when that front moves in????
You need to understand two things about anchor setting before you can really make these above water decisions. First, in perhaps 85% of the bottoms, you will encounter, there are two layers of substrate. The first layer is a relatively soft sediment layer that is anywhere from between 1 inch thick, in a high current area, to as much as 12 or 15 inches thick in an area of little tidal movement. This is NOT the part of the bottom you want your anchor buried in and holding your six figure investment but if you don't properly set this is the layer you'll be depending on! Second, there are two types of sets! I've learned this from watching boats that don't properly set an anchor and then diving on their anchors and comparing it to boats I have witnessed who did actually set the anchor or to my anchor. Diving on your anchor provides REAL data and not the false sense of security you get from a partial set in the top layer of substrate. An initial or partial set is just what the name implies. With a Bruce or a CQR this usually means the anchor is laying on its side and only partially burried in the soft top layer of bottom sediment. These anchors are NOT set! A Bruce or CQR type anchor needs to be vertical and buried so that all you can see is a little bit of the shank or none of the shank. To properly set an anchor the sail MUST be back winded with at least 10+ knots of wind, or the motor must be used at a minimum of 80% reverse throttle. Trust me from my diving experience it is a RARE occasion that an anchor properly sets without backing down or back winding! It's the bottom layer of substrate you want your anchor penetrated into and NOT the softer sediment layer. Many boaters feel the resistance of this partial set and stop there only to drag anchor and wonder why at a later time. Now many anchors will set and bury properly when the wind pipes up but there is NO guarantee at all. You should always SET your anchor and if it does not hold your boat at 80% reverse throttle it's NOT set. 80% reverse throttle on a sail boat is the rough equivalent of between 12 and 22 knots depending on the auxiliary power. Keep in mind MANY boat transmissions, especially v-drives, use a different and less aggressive reverse gear than the forward gear so your boat usually does NOT have the same thrust in reverse as it does in forward. Other factors also play into this reduced reverse thrust but suffice it to say that most boat have less power in reverse than in forward.. When setting with the motor it's important to pick a spot then drift slowly over and beyond it so you can then get the boat moving slowly, .5 to 1 knot, backwards. This is when you drop the anchor, but not all at once, let it hit the bottom moving backwards and the when you feel it hit then pay out 7:1 scope (water depth + bow height multiplied by 7). Once the anchor rode is taught, and you have felt the "initial set" back down gently at first to just at little over idle throttle to "seat" seat the anchor. If all feels good, and you are not dragging, at this point you should gradually increase throttle to 80%. Keep on it until prop walk has moved you about 10 degrees to either port or starboard. Now your anchor is set and you can reduce scope to 5:1 or even 4:1 if you have an anchor that can handle it or an all chain rode. I sometimes will let is sit for a couple of hours and then re-test before I turn in for the night.. Don't you want to know NOW that your anchor is set rather than at three in the morning when that front moves in????
Thanx MainSail
Numerous books & tutorials have been written on the art & science of anchoring; but Maine Sail’s post is one of the better SHORT expositions I’ve read.
Numerous books & tutorials have been written on the art & science of anchoring; but Maine Sail’s post is one of the better SHORT expositions I’ve read.
some good comments here!
first and foremost is what ross mentioned. know what you are trying to set in. know what the depth conditions are. you wouldn't want to set in 15' of water at the edge of a shelf that 20' away the depth is 5'. what size and style of anchor do you have. is it right for what you're trying to anchor in. is it sized right for your boat? mine is sized to hold a boat 5,000lb heavier than my boat in 125knots of wind. an over-sized anchor is one of the best insurance policies around. believe me, i know. we got caught in fairlee creek a few years ago when a tornado blew through. boats all around us were dragging but we stayed right where we set. keys, proper anchor size, plenty of scope minimum of 7 to 1, 10 to 1 at least for the set, use the motor to really dig it in if a motor is available. anchors set off the stern are a disaster waiting to happen. when the wind or current shifts it moves the bow around not the stern. not to mention that if there are other boats in your vicinity you are not going to swing the same way they do. S/V Que Pasa?
first and foremost is what ross mentioned. know what you are trying to set in. know what the depth conditions are. you wouldn't want to set in 15' of water at the edge of a shelf that 20' away the depth is 5'. what size and style of anchor do you have. is it right for what you're trying to anchor in. is it sized right for your boat? mine is sized to hold a boat 5,000lb heavier than my boat in 125knots of wind. an over-sized anchor is one of the best insurance policies around. believe me, i know. we got caught in fairlee creek a few years ago when a tornado blew through. boats all around us were dragging but we stayed right where we set. keys, proper anchor size, plenty of scope minimum of 7 to 1, 10 to 1 at least for the set, use the motor to really dig it in if a motor is available. anchors set off the stern are a disaster waiting to happen. when the wind or current shifts it moves the bow around not the stern. not to mention that if there are other boats in your vicinity you are not going to swing the same way they do. S/V Que Pasa?
I've had good luck
beginning the "anchoring process" while under sail by dropping the anchor off the stern. I do this sometimes when alone and the condtions are right for it. While under sail, I pick the spot I want the hook to set, then sail downwind and drop the hook off the stern, pay out rode to about 35 ft, and then snub it off on a stern cleat. This brings the boat to a stop and sets the anchor. I then take the remaining rode outside the pushpit/stanchions and tie it off to the bow. I uncleat the rode tied to the stern and the boat slowly turns upwind as I take down the sails. I then adjust how much scope I want out and ensure the anchor is really set. This takes some practice, but is actually easier to do while single handling than coming upwind under power to drop the hook off the bow, snubbing it, then running back to the cockpit to hit reserve to set it, then going forward again to adjust scope.
beginning the "anchoring process" while under sail by dropping the anchor off the stern. I do this sometimes when alone and the condtions are right for it. While under sail, I pick the spot I want the hook to set, then sail downwind and drop the hook off the stern, pay out rode to about 35 ft, and then snub it off on a stern cleat. This brings the boat to a stop and sets the anchor. I then take the remaining rode outside the pushpit/stanchions and tie it off to the bow. I uncleat the rode tied to the stern and the boat slowly turns upwind as I take down the sails. I then adjust how much scope I want out and ensure the anchor is really set. This takes some practice, but is actually easier to do while single handling than coming upwind under power to drop the hook off the bow, snubbing it, then running back to the cockpit to hit reserve to set it, then going forward again to adjust scope.
Much anchoring off California...
is done in the lee of hills, islands, bluffs, and etc. Unlike the variable nature of east-coast winds, the wind (and the wind-generated seas) along most of the west coast blows very consistently from westerly quadrants, plus the water off California is deep compared to the east coast, especially when compared to that of the GOM coast. Summer weather fronts and T-storms are rare. It's not unusual to be anchoring in 40 to 50 ft. By the time you reach your anchorage, the afternoon winds in summer can be (and usually are) between 15 and 20 kt. If you're going to anchor from sail, for example, behind Santa Catalina Island below a headland in 15 kt then I doubt any sort of downwind approach would work out well. There might be some places where you could do that, however. Just to make the point that where you are and what you have to work with is what will determine how you'll go about it. BEO
is done in the lee of hills, islands, bluffs, and etc. Unlike the variable nature of east-coast winds, the wind (and the wind-generated seas) along most of the west coast blows very consistently from westerly quadrants, plus the water off California is deep compared to the east coast, especially when compared to that of the GOM coast. Summer weather fronts and T-storms are rare. It's not unusual to be anchoring in 40 to 50 ft. By the time you reach your anchorage, the afternoon winds in summer can be (and usually are) between 15 and 20 kt. If you're going to anchor from sail, for example, behind Santa Catalina Island below a headland in 15 kt then I doubt any sort of downwind approach would work out well. There might be some places where you could do that, however. Just to make the point that where you are and what you have to work with is what will determine how you'll go about it. BEO
Sorry Ross..
Quote: "Mainesail, It is funny that you don't mention the bottom conditions that are listed on all of the charts. hrd, sft, stky, shl, sand, foul and others are on the charts. Some bottom provide better holding than others." Sorry Ross I should know by now to never take anything for granted. I just assumed people knew the bottom types where they anchor. My post was in reference to what most boaters anchor in and that is Sand & Mud. I also have to assume people know, and have at least looked, at the charts for where they are anchoring. If they don't know that they need more than an anchor setting tutorial they need Boating 101...
Quote: "Mainesail, It is funny that you don't mention the bottom conditions that are listed on all of the charts. hrd, sft, stky, shl, sand, foul and others are on the charts. Some bottom provide better holding than others." Sorry Ross I should know by now to never take anything for granted. I just assumed people knew the bottom types where they anchor. My post was in reference to what most boaters anchor in and that is Sand & Mud. I also have to assume people know, and have at least looked, at the charts for where they are anchoring. If they don't know that they need more than an anchor setting tutorial they need Boating 101...
warren ; sounds like a good single handed way
It would be a bear to do it that way on my O'day 30. i have a danforth 25 with 12' of chain. its so frigging big that i really have to Jockey it around to get it in my anchor locker. i would probably bang the deck up big time if i tried that. single handing i just make sure the boat isn't moving forward then drop the hook with enough line to give a 2to1 then take the line aft, put it on a primary winch then start slowly backing down playing out the anchor line just keeping it snug. once i have about 10 to 1 cleat it off and back down hard to set it, then go forward and cleat it off on the bow. the one bad thing about the over-sized anchor and chain, if you can consider it a bad thing, is the next morn it can be back breaking work to get it out if you're just trying to pull it by hand. i get around this by pulling the boat up on the anchor line to get as little scope as i can, then cleat it off. then I yank it loose with the iron jenny. works like a charm. I will say that we do sleep well knowing that the boat isn't going anywhere in the night. s/v Que Pasa?
It would be a bear to do it that way on my O'day 30. i have a danforth 25 with 12' of chain. its so frigging big that i really have to Jockey it around to get it in my anchor locker. i would probably bang the deck up big time if i tried that. single handing i just make sure the boat isn't moving forward then drop the hook with enough line to give a 2to1 then take the line aft, put it on a primary winch then start slowly backing down playing out the anchor line just keeping it snug. once i have about 10 to 1 cleat it off and back down hard to set it, then go forward and cleat it off on the bow. the one bad thing about the over-sized anchor and chain, if you can consider it a bad thing, is the next morn it can be back breaking work to get it out if you're just trying to pull it by hand. i get around this by pulling the boat up on the anchor line to get as little scope as i can, then cleat it off. then I yank it loose with the iron jenny. works like a charm. I will say that we do sleep well knowing that the boat isn't going anywhere in the night. s/v Que Pasa?
Warren ,excellent advice
Thats how I've done it with no motor. Just drop the anchor off the stern while slowly underway. Plenty of scope and tie her off. You'll come to a stop and your anchor is set. Drop sail and open a cold one. It doesnt get any easier than that. Good advice. Keep it up, Ctskip
Thats how I've done it with no motor. Just drop the anchor off the stern while slowly underway. Plenty of scope and tie her off. You'll come to a stop and your anchor is set. Drop sail and open a cold one. It doesnt get any easier than that. Good advice. Keep it up, Ctskip
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