Dropped the steaming light wire (oops)

rkuris

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Dec 28, 2014
6
Catalina 30 San Francisco
The old steaming light had given up the ghost, so I went up the mast to replace it. During the process, somehow the wire snuck into the grommet and went inside the mast. I removed the grommet but alas the wire has dropped down.

Where does this wire exit the mast? Is this in the bilge? I looked around for it some but couldn't spot the exact exit point.
 
Oct 29, 2014
38
catalina 30 MKII DCYC
Hi Rkuris,

Perhaps you can remove the sheave at the base of the mast (seen here, it has six screws), this gives you quite a bit of room to see the wires and halyards, then gently tugging figure out which is the steaming light. Drop a line down the mast, re-attach and pull back up.


Or maybe I am missing something as I don't see the need to go all the way back in the boat for this.

Regards,
Nels
 

dj2210

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Feb 4, 2012
337
Catalina 30 Watts Bar
Do as HogHaven suggested by removing the sheave or making an access hole, then using a electricians tape to pull the wire back up to the light. The steaming light wire is most likely dropped down in the mast. It can't really drop down into the compression post or bilge due to the disconnect plug at the base of the mast. I put in a access hole big enough for my hand to fit in about 8" up off the deck. Makes getting to those plugs easy.
 

dj2210

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Feb 4, 2012
337
Catalina 30 Watts Bar
Access Hole- sorry but best picture I got of it. You can just see it at the bottom of the mast with a round aluminum plate. Its held on with four screws
 

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Jan 6, 2010
1,520
RK,

Hog & Dj are spot on in their advice.

You do have some access but if locating the cable, it may still be a bear to fish it back up.
I will bet that you didn't have much of a pigtail & that's why the wire fell thru.

If your wiring was abit short, I would pull out the existing wiring & cut it leaving a foot of length out the base opening. I would purchase the proper length of new wiring or an extension piece something a little extra in length. I would fish rigging wire or fish tape down as the top hole is small in diameter.

At the base opening, I would strip the ends of the new wiring back, twist them & solder together to loop the rigging wire or fish tape into, remember that top hole is small. Once connected, you can pull the new wire up or if in reverse pulling down. Once you have enough length of wire exiting the top hole, slip the grommet on & tie a knot in the wire so it won't slip thru again & pull from the bottom to get the knot against the grommet. then just cut the pigtails the correct length for mounting to the light.

CR
 

rkuris

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Dec 28, 2014
6
Catalina 30 San Francisco
No access hole

I don't have any access hole, and my lines aren't inside the mast like you guys have.

How big should I make it? Does it belong on one side? Seems like a nice thing to have anyway, I guess I need an aluminium plate to cover it up when done?

dj: I can't see any access hole in that photo
 
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Jan 6, 2010
1,520
RK,

Because I had an open crane at the top of my mast & had problems with a wet core at the base, I made a close-off plate over the crane (top pulleys) fixed the deck & cut two round holes near the base, one SYBD & port.

This does two things, one for venting/drying water at the base & it gives me access. I bought two S.S. louvered vents at Waste Marine. I can remove this for inspection etc. I believe my holes are 4" dia. You may not want two holes but it gives cross ventilation. Plus, there is more light if needing to do some work & allows for a flashlight opposite the side you are working from if needing more light. Look closely at the mast.

Here's a view of what I did for a close-off plate & my vents for reference.

CR
 

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rkuris

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Dec 28, 2014
6
Catalina 30 San Francisco
Awesome, thanks

These photos are GREAT! Thank you!! I was a little worried about getting too close to the base; I can see it looks almost a foot up, which makes me feel better.

Looks like I only see 4" SS vents at WM. I am assuming the hole you made is smaller than that.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stainless-steel-louvered-vents--P000226993

SeaDog makes a 2 1/2" vent, but it doesn't look like it's really louvered:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290139|2290142&id=46439

I am thinking more like a 1 1/2" hole with a 2 1/2" vent, so I might go with the seadog. I don't like their stuff because they don't give the grade of stainless. Time will tell I guess.
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
RK,

Thinking back, I drilled a 3" hole to use with the 4" louvered vent, it was quite a few years ago. I didn't want to close it off from witnessing the water seepage damage I had over time. At least with a vent, water collecting, will have a chance to dry. Your mast will work as a cooling tower. Air pressure at the top will be lower as wind passes over it. The bottom vents will suck in air & will sucked up & out the top of your mast removing moisture.

A hole saw drills thru like butter & this doesn't affect the structural integrity of the mast.

CR