Anyone have experience with the drip free packing glands for the prop shaft. I found my packing gland leaking a steady small stream of water last week (1996 P42). I couldn't even budge the nut to tighten since there was corrosion so I asked a Yanmar mechanic from Annapolis to come and look at it this week. I feel that the easier approach (because of the cost of the mechanic's time) may be to just slip the old gland off and replace with a dripless variety. Anyone have any experinece or opinion on my options?
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Rafael Perez
I think they are a fine pice of equipment
Hi, We have a PSS dripless shaft seal in our H410 (1999) without any problem. We had assembled and disassembled it because we had to work in the shaft and now I'm more convinced that it is a good piece of engeneering. The important point is to understand how it works and mount it carefully, leaving nothing to chance. Good luck, Rafael Pérez H410 Marina Clara
Hi, We have a PSS dripless shaft seal in our H410 (1999) without any problem. We had assembled and disassembled it because we had to work in the shaft and now I'm more convinced that it is a good piece of engeneering. The important point is to understand how it works and mount it carefully, leaving nothing to chance. Good luck, Rafael Pérez H410 Marina Clara
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Bob Zolczer
It works well for me
I use the PSS dripless shaft seal on my H29.5. I would highly recommend it for coastal cruising.
I use the PSS dripless shaft seal on my H29.5. I would highly recommend it for coastal cruising.
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Daryl
Just Slip It Off?
Guess you write checks and never work on boats. To just "slip it off" you'll need to haul the boat and get the coupling off the shaft. (sometimes easier said than done) Conventional stuffing boxes have been used for a hundred years and last forever with a minimium amount of attention. Dripless systems are expensive and way over rated. Have a mechanic repack yours and it should be good for 5-10 years. Save your money for a better boat
Guess you write checks and never work on boats. To just "slip it off" you'll need to haul the boat and get the coupling off the shaft. (sometimes easier said than done) Conventional stuffing boxes have been used for a hundred years and last forever with a minimium amount of attention. Dripless systems are expensive and way over rated. Have a mechanic repack yours and it should be good for 5-10 years. Save your money for a better boat
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Tim Carrere
Daryl find somewhere else to root
Daryl, I am a proud owner of a new 410. I have been lurking on this board since July. It seems to me that you have a "bug up" somewhere about the Hunter line, get over it and move on. There is more to gauge decisions on purchasing a particular boat than I think you have the ability to comprehend. Your attacks have been sophmoric and unfounded. We purchased our boat from a very reputable dealer who has a full service yard to address any problems that could arise. Problems will arise with any new or used equipment that you may buy, so ease of responsive repair was one factor in our decision. We have many friends in our sailing club who are satisfied Hunter owners and that was another factor in our decision. I hold a USCG 100 ton Masters with unlimited passenger, sail and towboat rating. I do offshore deliveries to the Bahamas and Carribean 2-3 times a year (and many of them Hunters) and have sailed and owned sailboats since 1979 (probably before you were born). I do not know why I feel I need to explain myself to someone who continiuosly attacks the people on this board. My understanding is that this board is to serve as a tool to assist by adding to the positive (and yes sometimes not positive) experiences in a proactive forum. My impression of you is that you would be a very difficult person to please, very unhappy in your daily life and thrive on providing that discomfort to others. Please take your rantings elsewhere. Oh yea by the way, where do you live other than just the USA? Tim Carrere Hunter 410 GEISHA
Daryl, I am a proud owner of a new 410. I have been lurking on this board since July. It seems to me that you have a "bug up" somewhere about the Hunter line, get over it and move on. There is more to gauge decisions on purchasing a particular boat than I think you have the ability to comprehend. Your attacks have been sophmoric and unfounded. We purchased our boat from a very reputable dealer who has a full service yard to address any problems that could arise. Problems will arise with any new or used equipment that you may buy, so ease of responsive repair was one factor in our decision. We have many friends in our sailing club who are satisfied Hunter owners and that was another factor in our decision. I hold a USCG 100 ton Masters with unlimited passenger, sail and towboat rating. I do offshore deliveries to the Bahamas and Carribean 2-3 times a year (and many of them Hunters) and have sailed and owned sailboats since 1979 (probably before you were born). I do not know why I feel I need to explain myself to someone who continiuosly attacks the people on this board. My understanding is that this board is to serve as a tool to assist by adding to the positive (and yes sometimes not positive) experiences in a proactive forum. My impression of you is that you would be a very difficult person to please, very unhappy in your daily life and thrive on providing that discomfort to others. Please take your rantings elsewhere. Oh yea by the way, where do you live other than just the USA? Tim Carrere Hunter 410 GEISHA
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Rich Wallace
I Put One On My P42 Last Winter
Putting in a PSS Shaft Seal is fairly easily done on the P42 (easily is a relative word.) Remove the bottom 8D battery to get access to the area. You will find that getting the flange off the prop shaft can be a chore, but once that is done you can pull the shaft out through the hull because the prop is so far in front of the rudder. That will give you an opportunity to really clean the shaft and remove any burrs on the flange end. With the shaft out of the way, changing the packing for the PSS seal is not too difficult. Be sure to double clamp the packing side to the through hull fitting. This is also a great time to check the neoprene bearing in the strut and replace it as well. Put the shaft back in, put the rotor on the shaft and then the flange. Be sure to tighten and safety wire the set screws on the flange. I also installed a PSS shaft saver between the prop flange and the transmission. It cuts down the noise and vibration. Overall, it is a no problem installation. The only maintenance is to "burp" the seal in the spring which takes about 30 seconds. You will like it.
Putting in a PSS Shaft Seal is fairly easily done on the P42 (easily is a relative word.) Remove the bottom 8D battery to get access to the area. You will find that getting the flange off the prop shaft can be a chore, but once that is done you can pull the shaft out through the hull because the prop is so far in front of the rudder. That will give you an opportunity to really clean the shaft and remove any burrs on the flange end. With the shaft out of the way, changing the packing for the PSS seal is not too difficult. Be sure to double clamp the packing side to the through hull fitting. This is also a great time to check the neoprene bearing in the strut and replace it as well. Put the shaft back in, put the rotor on the shaft and then the flange. Be sure to tighten and safety wire the set screws on the flange. I also installed a PSS shaft saver between the prop flange and the transmission. It cuts down the noise and vibration. Overall, it is a no problem installation. The only maintenance is to "burp" the seal in the spring which takes about 30 seconds. You will like it.
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Terry
Henry, you can do this yourself. The stuffing...
box on our 1991 P42 needed repacking when we purchased it last year. The nut that locks the box was, at first, difficult to break loose, that is before I used Liquid Wrench. I did mine while it was on the hard...easier to do. Here is what I did: 1. Squirted Liquid Wrench on the lock nut threads, tapped it with a hammer and squirted it again then let it set for an hour. 2. I used two medium sized pipe wrenches, one on the lock nut and one on the box. Broke right loose. Two open end wrenches of the right size would work better but I already had the pipe wrenches in my tool box. 3. Used a dental pic to remove the old flax stuffing material. 4. Replaced with new 3/16th silicone flax three layers and alternating the seams to ensure a good seal. 5. Hand tightened. No drip at rest and about four drips per minute while running in gear. My total cost was under ten dollars for the flax and the Liquid Wrench. I did it without removing any equipment, a little difficult because of the limited access. Before you go to the trouble of repacking your box break loose the lock nut and tighten the box 1/4 turn. That may do the drip trick. Good luck. Terry P.S. You can do this!
box on our 1991 P42 needed repacking when we purchased it last year. The nut that locks the box was, at first, difficult to break loose, that is before I used Liquid Wrench. I did mine while it was on the hard...easier to do. Here is what I did: 1. Squirted Liquid Wrench on the lock nut threads, tapped it with a hammer and squirted it again then let it set for an hour. 2. I used two medium sized pipe wrenches, one on the lock nut and one on the box. Broke right loose. Two open end wrenches of the right size would work better but I already had the pipe wrenches in my tool box. 3. Used a dental pic to remove the old flax stuffing material. 4. Replaced with new 3/16th silicone flax three layers and alternating the seams to ensure a good seal. 5. Hand tightened. No drip at rest and about four drips per minute while running in gear. My total cost was under ten dollars for the flax and the Liquid Wrench. I did it without removing any equipment, a little difficult because of the limited access. Before you go to the trouble of repacking your box break loose the lock nut and tighten the box 1/4 turn. That may do the drip trick. Good luck. Terry P.S. You can do this!
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Fred Ficarra
Tim, I'm with you about Daryl, but a PSS,,,
tried to sink our boat. I have talked about it here before. I replaced it with that 'bees wax' packing. It's great. Hasn't dripped since installation (1989) and has lasted through two shafts with no wear and no adjustment. And it only cost about $35.00 and is installed without hauling the boat. It's 'no tech' easy, cheap and it works. I can't think of anything that is detracting .
tried to sink our boat. I have talked about it here before. I replaced it with that 'bees wax' packing. It's great. Hasn't dripped since installation (1989) and has lasted through two shafts with no wear and no adjustment. And it only cost about $35.00 and is installed without hauling the boat. It's 'no tech' easy, cheap and it works. I can't think of anything that is detracting .
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David Foster
Good Report after 1 Year
I converted Lady Lillie, our '77 h27 to PSS from WM last winter. No problems (or drips) yet. David
I converted Lady Lillie, our '77 h27 to PSS from WM last winter. No problems (or drips) yet. David
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Gil C. - Wanderin' One
PSS Shaft Seal - GREAT!
Have had one on my boat for 3 years. No problems, no drips. Just remember to bleed the shaft at launch.
Have had one on my boat for 3 years. No problems, no drips. Just remember to bleed the shaft at launch.
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Rich Wallace
Fred, What Happened?
What happed with the PSS shaft seal that created the situation you mentioned? If there is something that I and the others need to do before we face the same situation, I want to do that. TIA.
What happed with the PSS shaft seal that created the situation you mentioned? If there is something that I and the others need to do before we face the same situation, I want to do that. TIA.
PSS is an excellent product.
PSS makes an excellent product. I personally do not have one, but can tell you from following the posts on this and other sites that they work and work well. You alway can find fault with with products, but with the exception of mis-adjustment or a one off mfg. flaw they are pretty much without fault. We have probably hear of one or two problems in many years.
PSS makes an excellent product. I personally do not have one, but can tell you from following the posts on this and other sites that they work and work well. You alway can find fault with with products, but with the exception of mis-adjustment or a one off mfg. flaw they are pretty much without fault. We have probably hear of one or two problems in many years.
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Fred Ficarra
Rich, we had an early model,,,
The Yanmar has a lot of movement, especially during shut down. That caused the face seal to cock and let LOTS of water in, quickly. We tried setting the bellows as tight as possible but the face seal cocked again. We found no solution except replacement. And before we did that, the bellows lost what pliability it had so no amount of adjustment helped. (less than a year) Not good. (about 1989) Oh, more new snaps on my site.
The Yanmar has a lot of movement, especially during shut down. That caused the face seal to cock and let LOTS of water in, quickly. We tried setting the bellows as tight as possible but the face seal cocked again. We found no solution except replacement. And before we did that, the bellows lost what pliability it had so no amount of adjustment helped. (less than a year) Not good. (about 1989) Oh, more new snaps on my site.
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Bob Bass
Teflon Packing
I replace the original flax packing with Teflon when the boat was new and four years later, when I checked it, I only replaced the outer ring. If you are nervous about doing it yourself, hire the mechanic and watch closely and ask questions. If you use the Teflon, you probably won't have to do it again for years, if ever.
I replace the original flax packing with Teflon when the boat was new and four years later, when I checked it, I only replaced the outer ring. If you are nervous about doing it yourself, hire the mechanic and watch closely and ask questions. If you use the Teflon, you probably won't have to do it again for years, if ever.
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Joe O
Works great...But
Henry...I put a PSS Shaft Seal in my H34 3 years ago and has worked great! But...during installation, I was unable to remove the shaft coupling that connects the proshaft to the engine...so I had to cut the propshaft and buy a new one. In the end, the cost of the shaft seal itself was way cheaper than the overall cost of the project. But...it hasn't leaked a drop since and no maintenance!
Henry...I put a PSS Shaft Seal in my H34 3 years ago and has worked great! But...during installation, I was unable to remove the shaft coupling that connects the proshaft to the engine...so I had to cut the propshaft and buy a new one. In the end, the cost of the shaft seal itself was way cheaper than the overall cost of the project. But...it hasn't leaked a drop since and no maintenance!
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Rich Lamond
PSS Dripless shaft seals
I have a PSS shaft seal in my 2000 H410. I noticed I was getting a small amount of water in the area of the shaft seal after motoring. After checking the seal, I noticed that one of the secondary set screws was gone and the internal set screw had loosened a bit allowing the seal to slide up on the shaft. I'm thinking that the second set screw was just "left out" during original installation. Works fine otherwise. I've taped an allen wrench inside the seal compartment, just to have handy and I check it now before I leave the dock and when I get back. Since then however, its worked fine.
I have a PSS shaft seal in my 2000 H410. I noticed I was getting a small amount of water in the area of the shaft seal after motoring. After checking the seal, I noticed that one of the secondary set screws was gone and the internal set screw had loosened a bit allowing the seal to slide up on the shaft. I'm thinking that the second set screw was just "left out" during original installation. Works fine otherwise. I've taped an allen wrench inside the seal compartment, just to have handy and I check it now before I leave the dock and when I get back. Since then however, its worked fine.
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Marc
Added Protection
I put a PSS seal on my 356 this year works great. As a result of some posts I read on this site I also installed a zinc on the shaft about 1/8 inch behind the rotating face. The zinc acts as a stop incase the set screws back out and the assembly tries to slip back. The 1/8 inch is provides a mechanism to see if the face has slipped. ie no gap the face has slipped. Good cheap protection.
I put a PSS seal on my 356 this year works great. As a result of some posts I read on this site I also installed a zinc on the shaft about 1/8 inch behind the rotating face. The zinc acts as a stop incase the set screws back out and the assembly tries to slip back. The 1/8 inch is provides a mechanism to see if the face has slipped. ie no gap the face has slipped. Good cheap protection.
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