Does anyone have any experience with Seafit Drip-Less packing? I'm installing a new shaft, bearing and packing in my C-30 and no one that I know here in SLC has ever used it. I hate to be the first one to find out it doesn't work well. Thanks.
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All of last season,
not a drop of water in the bilge.
Also check archives, many are using it but the PSS Shaft Seal seems to remain the favorite.
not a drop of water in the bilge.
Also check archives, many are using it but the PSS Shaft Seal seems to remain the favorite.Another Question Ed.
When you installed the packing, was there any trick to doing it? The material seems pretty stiff. They say to either place it in as is or break it up in pieces. any more advice would be great since I have only one day to get the boat in the water, or wait until next fall. Thanks.
When you installed the packing, was there any trick to doing it? The material seems pretty stiff. They say to either place it in as is or break it up in pieces. any more advice would be great since I have only one day to get the boat in the water, or wait until next fall. Thanks.
Dripless Packing Coumpound
Hi Brian, I used this dripless coumpound last season and was very satisfied with it. No drips into the bilge. I do have a bronze prop, and am told not to use it with a stainless steel shaft to avoid crevis corrosion. You have to put in a ring of regular flax packing, then crumble up the dripless coumpond and put it in (equivelent volume to a flax ring), then put in one more standard flak ring. You end up with a sandwich of flax-coumpond-flax. Then put the retainer (plastic) and packing nut back on and tighten 'snug'. Dont over tighten. Manually check shaft rotation. I plan to continue to use it. Nice dry bilge. Dick Carey S/V Puffin H-33.5 1990
Hi Brian, I used this dripless coumpound last season and was very satisfied with it. No drips into the bilge. I do have a bronze prop, and am told not to use it with a stainless steel shaft to avoid crevis corrosion. You have to put in a ring of regular flax packing, then crumble up the dripless coumpond and put it in (equivelent volume to a flax ring), then put in one more standard flak ring. You end up with a sandwich of flax-coumpond-flax. Then put the retainer (plastic) and packing nut back on and tighten 'snug'. Dont over tighten. Manually check shaft rotation. I plan to continue to use it. Nice dry bilge. Dick Carey S/V Puffin H-33.5 1990
Dick is right.
Although I did not find it brittle as both of you seem to be describing. It came in a sealed container and was kind of like a workable putty. I cut two regular teflon/flax rings with an angle cut using the shaft to get the lengths just right. Placed the first one in the "box" and then worked a ring of putty(too much) into the box. I think I used more than just almost two rings worth. Then I placed the second flax ring in and tried to catch a couple of threads with the nut. When I could only catch half a thread I redid the putty until I could get a solid start with the nut. But I wanted to be sure that I had as much putty as would fit. I did not tighten it further until I launched and started the engine. Then I tightened just until the drip stopped. I probably adjusted it once more that first week or so and never touched it the rest of the season. Good luck.
Although I did not find it brittle as both of you seem to be describing. It came in a sealed container and was kind of like a workable putty. I cut two regular teflon/flax rings with an angle cut using the shaft to get the lengths just right. Placed the first one in the "box" and then worked a ring of putty(too much) into the box. I think I used more than just almost two rings worth. Then I placed the second flax ring in and tried to catch a couple of threads with the nut. When I could only catch half a thread I redid the putty until I could get a solid start with the nut. But I wanted to be sure that I had as much putty as would fit. I did not tighten it further until I launched and started the engine. Then I tightened just until the drip stopped. I probably adjusted it once more that first week or so and never touched it the rest of the season. Good luck.
Drip-less packing
I have used this dripless packing for at least 5 years, first on a Catalina 30 and then on a catalina 36. I keep the boat in the water year round and use the boat a fair amount. Besides the initail adjustments it was pretty much worry free. I think it is a great product and it is much cheaper than a drip-less packing gland. It's also easier to install! I would highly recommend it! There's nothing like a dry bilge (no moisture and no smell) ! Good Luck!
I have used this dripless packing for at least 5 years, first on a Catalina 30 and then on a catalina 36. I keep the boat in the water year round and use the boat a fair amount. Besides the initail adjustments it was pretty much worry free. I think it is a great product and it is much cheaper than a drip-less packing gland. It's also easier to install! I would highly recommend it! There's nothing like a dry bilge (no moisture and no smell) ! Good Luck!
West Marine
I bought mine at the local West Marine store. I'm sure it must be a common item for the large mail-order companies. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
I bought mine at the local West Marine store. I'm sure it must be a common item for the large mail-order companies. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
installing it
Has anyone had a problem getting the old flax out of the stuffing box?. I have a 27 Hunter (1981). any idea how many rings of flax are in it?
Has anyone had a problem getting the old flax out of the stuffing box?. I have a 27 Hunter (1981). any idea how many rings of flax are in it?
three
Ray, three is the norm but the last guy may have just added new. At Home Depot in the tool area, they sell a set of three probes with various pointed ends. The MFG is General. They may help you pick out the old stuff. Cost about 10 US dollars. r.w.landau
Ray, three is the norm but the last guy may have just added new. At Home Depot in the tool area, they sell a set of three probes with various pointed ends. The MFG is General. They may help you pick out the old stuff. Cost about 10 US dollars. r.w.landau
Flax Extractor
West marine and Boat/US sell a 'flax extractor' tool for just that purpose. It has a flexible shaft (very desireable) and a little tappered 'cork screw' on the end. The extractor is really needed to get into the coupling box to pick out the old flax. I think the cost withtax was $12.07. I agree with three rings a normal. Good luck. Dick carey S/V Puffin H-33.5
West marine and Boat/US sell a 'flax extractor' tool for just that purpose. It has a flexible shaft (very desireable) and a little tappered 'cork screw' on the end. The extractor is really needed to get into the coupling box to pick out the old flax. I think the cost withtax was $12.07. I agree with three rings a normal. Good luck. Dick carey S/V Puffin H-33.5
Gortex packing is another option
Besides the dripless stuff from West marine, I am using gortex packing called GFO Packing. It looks like regular flax packing in that all you have is the packing material. It is also supposed to be almost dripless (define almost?) and it costs about $15 for a 2' roll. Check out e-marine. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
Besides the dripless stuff from West marine, I am using gortex packing called GFO Packing. It looks like regular flax packing in that all you have is the packing material. It is also supposed to be almost dripless (define almost?) and it costs about $15 for a 2' roll. Check out e-marine. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
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