I noticed that water was collecting in each separate section of my Hunter 25'. It would not pass over the stringers unless it reached about 3.5" deep then it would flow into the next lower section, always accumulating behind the stringers. This was not letting me keep the boat dry and aided mildew to develop. The bilge pump never got a chance to drain all the water from the bilge because of this. I plan on drilling a 7/16" hole through the lowest point of each section's stringer, then cutting a piece of 1/2" outside diameter tubing, coating it with 3M's 5200 Adhesive, and inserting it into the hole. I will then trim it to the edge of the stringer so that bilge water will pass to the lowest point and be pumped out by the bilge pump. I would like to hear from expeienced mariners if they feel this 7/16" hole will weaken the stringer. Should I inject epoxy into the sides of the hole prior to inserting the tube? Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
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Good idea
There's even a name for the holes you want to drill: limber holes. And they should have been put there by the builder. However, I'd make 'em at least 3/4" or even 1". You don't even need a tube...in fact, unless the tube is a half round and the hole is flush with the bottom of the stringer, water can still get trapped above the stringer. If you look at limber holes on most other boats, you'll see that they're just "mouse holes," coated with epoxy.
There's even a name for the holes you want to drill: limber holes. And they should have been put there by the builder. However, I'd make 'em at least 3/4" or even 1". You don't even need a tube...in fact, unless the tube is a half round and the hole is flush with the bottom of the stringer, water can still get trapped above the stringer. If you look at limber holes on most other boats, you'll see that they're just "mouse holes," coated with epoxy.
Peggy's right. . . .
as usual. I drilled 3/4" holes then used a rat tail file to open the bottom of the hole even more. A little epoxy and the frame is probably stronger than before. My H37C had the limber holes they were just too high up to let the water travel. With a keel-stepped mast you need to let the water get to the pump.
as usual. I drilled 3/4" holes then used a rat tail file to open the bottom of the hole even more. A little epoxy and the frame is probably stronger than before. My H37C had the limber holes they were just too high up to let the water travel. With a keel-stepped mast you need to let the water get to the pump.
Ask Hunter for Location
The "stringers" are sturctural members and are designed to provide regidity in the hull. Consequently, I'd recommend sending an e-mail to Hunter telling them your situation and asking where the holes can be drilled without compromising the design.
The "stringers" are sturctural members and are designed to provide regidity in the hull. Consequently, I'd recommend sending an e-mail to Hunter telling them your situation and asking where the holes can be drilled without compromising the design.
I contacted Hunter
Hunter's customer service department indicated that my cutting the (limber holes) would be ok. They responded within 24 hours! I plan on cutting them as close as possible to the bottom so that water will not get trapped behind the stringers. I have decided to make my hole 5/8" so as not to weaken the structure. I am going to inject epoxy around the hole, let it set up, then insert my flush-cut piece of 3M 5200 coated tubing. (This is a 25' and the stringers are barely 3 inches tall. I would rather cut too small than too large.) Thank you all for your suggestions.
Hunter's customer service department indicated that my cutting the (limber holes) would be ok. They responded within 24 hours! I plan on cutting them as close as possible to the bottom so that water will not get trapped behind the stringers. I have decided to make my hole 5/8" so as not to weaken the structure. I am going to inject epoxy around the hole, let it set up, then insert my flush-cut piece of 3M 5200 coated tubing. (This is a 25' and the stringers are barely 3 inches tall. I would rather cut too small than too large.) Thank you all for your suggestions.
Omit the tube
It'll cause more problems than it will solve...it'll create a "sill" at the bottom of your limber hole that will cntrinue to trap water behind it...and even 1/8" of water (the wall thickness of the tube) is more than you want to leave trapped. It'll reduce the diameter of your already too-small limber hole by the wall thickness of the pipe, creating more potential for any "glop" to clog it...and even a pinhole gap in the epoxy can let water become trapped between the pipe and the stringer, creating the potential for rot. Coating the hole with epoxy will protect the stringer...use a file to eliminate any "sill" at the bottom of the hole. A 3/4" hole is only 1/8" diamter larger than 5/8"--but 50% larger than the opening you'd have if you put a pipe in it...not enough difference to weaken the stringer, but a huge difference in how much water can drain through it.
It'll cause more problems than it will solve...it'll create a "sill" at the bottom of your limber hole that will cntrinue to trap water behind it...and even 1/8" of water (the wall thickness of the tube) is more than you want to leave trapped. It'll reduce the diameter of your already too-small limber hole by the wall thickness of the pipe, creating more potential for any "glop" to clog it...and even a pinhole gap in the epoxy can let water become trapped between the pipe and the stringer, creating the potential for rot. Coating the hole with epoxy will protect the stringer...use a file to eliminate any "sill" at the bottom of the hole. A 3/4" hole is only 1/8" diamter larger than 5/8"--but 50% larger than the opening you'd have if you put a pipe in it...not enough difference to weaken the stringer, but a huge difference in how much water can drain through it.
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