Has anyone thought of drilling a hole, 1/2 or so, and placing a hose that would drain the water from the shower to the keel bilge? it would seem to make sense to me, I just don't know what's under there, but there are some small screw holes from a previously installed bilge and the water in there slowly goes to the keel. Also, does anyone have a bilge pump in the area just in front of the engine but aft of the shower bilge? I wouldn't mind doing the same to that separator between the two, thereby making a safer and more simple operation (one auto bilge). any thoughts
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shower sump
I have a bilge pump with automatic switch in my shower sump. I set it up with the auto switch because I drain my dehumidifier into the shower sump. I wouldnt drain the shower sump into the bildge . Hair will eventually stop up your bilge pump.
I have a bilge pump with automatic switch in my shower sump. I set it up with the auto switch because I drain my dehumidifier into the shower sump. I wouldnt drain the shower sump into the bildge . Hair will eventually stop up your bilge pump.
Bad idea...
Because wet bilges are a major source of odor, especially in hot weather, you want to keep it as dry as possible. The LAST thing you want to do is add dirty shower water full of soap scum, hair, body oils and bacteria to the "primordial soup" that already exists in most bilges. In fact, you want to do just the opposite...re-route anything that drains into the bilge--shower, ice box, air conditioning condensate etc--into sumps to keep it OUT of the bilge. You might want to read the article "Boat Odor Isn't All in Your Head" in the Head Mistress forum reference library.
Because wet bilges are a major source of odor, especially in hot weather, you want to keep it as dry as possible. The LAST thing you want to do is add dirty shower water full of soap scum, hair, body oils and bacteria to the "primordial soup" that already exists in most bilges. In fact, you want to do just the opposite...re-route anything that drains into the bilge--shower, ice box, air conditioning condensate etc--into sumps to keep it OUT of the bilge. You might want to read the article "Boat Odor Isn't All in Your Head" in the Head Mistress forum reference library.
Dry Sump a Necessity?
I'm wondering why, with proper maintenance, a wet bilge is so bad? Especially with more modern designs with an easily accessed bilge area? All right, I'm pretty sure that it doesn't help prevent the formation of blisters when both the inside AND the outside of the laminate is wet. After all, the water in the bilge also sits on the hull under the liner. In other words, a dry bilge would be preferable. And I totally agree that you would not want the shower sump, or the engine sump, to drain into the bilge. Because of soap scum, body hair, body oils, and engine oil contamination, this would definitely promote growth and odors. My shower does drain into the bilge, but I've only taken one shower in this boat since I've owned it, and would add a shower sump if I planned on using it on a regular basis. However, mine is an 89' Vision 32 which I purchased in 90', and both the ice box and the shaft area has always drained into the bilge. With proper care (a few drops of bleach added to the bilge every once in awhile, more often in the hot summer months), and cleaning when necessary, I've never had an odor problem. Also, bilge pumps are only designed to remove so much water, and always leaves an inch or two left in the bilge area. I've thought about a dripless shaft seal, and plumbing the ice box overboard somehow, but haven't seen the necessity so far. At least not enough to put it high on my priority list. Whats your thoughts on my comments?
I'm wondering why, with proper maintenance, a wet bilge is so bad? Especially with more modern designs with an easily accessed bilge area? All right, I'm pretty sure that it doesn't help prevent the formation of blisters when both the inside AND the outside of the laminate is wet. After all, the water in the bilge also sits on the hull under the liner. In other words, a dry bilge would be preferable. And I totally agree that you would not want the shower sump, or the engine sump, to drain into the bilge. Because of soap scum, body hair, body oils, and engine oil contamination, this would definitely promote growth and odors. My shower does drain into the bilge, but I've only taken one shower in this boat since I've owned it, and would add a shower sump if I planned on using it on a regular basis. However, mine is an 89' Vision 32 which I purchased in 90', and both the ice box and the shaft area has always drained into the bilge. With proper care (a few drops of bleach added to the bilge every once in awhile, more often in the hot summer months), and cleaning when necessary, I've never had an odor problem. Also, bilge pumps are only designed to remove so much water, and always leaves an inch or two left in the bilge area. I've thought about a dripless shaft seal, and plumbing the ice box overboard somehow, but haven't seen the necessity so far. At least not enough to put it high on my priority list. Whats your thoughts on my comments?
The area in front of the engine
You do not want to have a pump in the area under the engine to prevent oil or diesel from being pumped overboard. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
You do not want to have a pump in the area under the engine to prevent oil or diesel from being pumped overboard. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
H 33 engine sump
The segregated sump under the engine on the 33 is one of it's best features. It enables you to be environmentaly concientious as well as legal. It IS illegal to dump oil over the side, and if you cut through that sump that's exactly what you'd end up doing. As far as the actual keel bilge goes I've had no odor problems with it even though the cooler drains into it. That might be in great part due to the fact that my wife is a plastic container freak so no food product of any type has the slightest chance of making it to the bilge. By the way - she just took the US Sailing sailing couse and did very well, so I no longer have to use terminology like "ropy thing" and "twirly whatsis". My bilge cleanliness regimen is quite simple. I swab the bilge religeously and thoroughly with Peggie's B C (bilge cleaner) at the beginning of the season and leave some laying in the bilge. That's it. Works great for me!
The segregated sump under the engine on the 33 is one of it's best features. It enables you to be environmentaly concientious as well as legal. It IS illegal to dump oil over the side, and if you cut through that sump that's exactly what you'd end up doing. As far as the actual keel bilge goes I've had no odor problems with it even though the cooler drains into it. That might be in great part due to the fact that my wife is a plastic container freak so no food product of any type has the slightest chance of making it to the bilge. By the way - she just took the US Sailing sailing couse and did very well, so I no longer have to use terminology like "ropy thing" and "twirly whatsis". My bilge cleanliness regimen is quite simple. I swab the bilge religeously and thoroughly with Peggie's B C (bilge cleaner) at the beginning of the season and leave some laying in the bilge. That's it. Works great for me!
Reefer doesn't have to drain into the bilge
On my quest for a completely dry bilge (I'm about 99% there) I rerouted the drain hose from under the reefer to a small hand pump to drain into the gally sink. Remove the wood panel (the 'floor') in the cabinet under the sink - 4-6 screws. You'll see a fiberglass 'floor'. Using a 4-1/2" hole saw, drill a hole in that fiberglass 'floor'. Under that pan, you'll see the drain hose coming from the reefer to the bilge. Pull the hose out from the bilge. Then drill a 1" - 1-1/2" hole in the same pan adjacent to forward vertical bulkhead. Next, get your hand through the large hole (that's why it's 4-1/2") and re-route the hose up through the small hose. Next, take the wood piece (the 'finished' flooring)and drill an identical 1" - 1-1/2" hole corresponding to the hole in the glass and bring the hose up through the wood and screw that floor back in it's original position. I ran the hose up the bulkhead securing it with secure cable clamps. All you need to do at that point is drill one more hole next to the sink to mount the pump, connect the drain hose, and you now can drain the reefer directly to the gally sink. A few pumps anytime someone pulls something out of the reefer will keep melted ice water from building up at the bottom of the reefer.
On my quest for a completely dry bilge (I'm about 99% there) I rerouted the drain hose from under the reefer to a small hand pump to drain into the gally sink. Remove the wood panel (the 'floor') in the cabinet under the sink - 4-6 screws. You'll see a fiberglass 'floor'. Using a 4-1/2" hole saw, drill a hole in that fiberglass 'floor'. Under that pan, you'll see the drain hose coming from the reefer to the bilge. Pull the hose out from the bilge. Then drill a 1" - 1-1/2" hole in the same pan adjacent to forward vertical bulkhead. Next, get your hand through the large hole (that's why it's 4-1/2") and re-route the hose up through the small hose. Next, take the wood piece (the 'finished' flooring)and drill an identical 1" - 1-1/2" hole corresponding to the hole in the glass and bring the hose up through the wood and screw that floor back in it's original position. I ran the hose up the bulkhead securing it with secure cable clamps. All you need to do at that point is drill one more hole next to the sink to mount the pump, connect the drain hose, and you now can drain the reefer directly to the gally sink. A few pumps anytime someone pulls something out of the reefer will keep melted ice water from building up at the bottom of the reefer.
Reefer drain
I can confirm that the pump-the-reefer-into-the-sink idea works great. That setup is standard equipment on our Sabre 28. The pump and hose is actually stored out of the way underneath the sink. I've been considering an additional enhancement that would mount the pump so the handle is accessible without opening the cabinet door and plump the outlet hose to a tee in the sink drain pipe. That would make it more convenient to use. (Now if I could only figure a way to make the thruhull open automatically when I was using the sink or the reefer pump, and then close when done, I'd be a truly happy man!)
I can confirm that the pump-the-reefer-into-the-sink idea works great. That setup is standard equipment on our Sabre 28. The pump and hose is actually stored out of the way underneath the sink. I've been considering an additional enhancement that would mount the pump so the handle is accessible without opening the cabinet door and plump the outlet hose to a tee in the sink drain pipe. That would make it more convenient to use. (Now if I could only figure a way to make the thruhull open automatically when I was using the sink or the reefer pump, and then close when done, I'd be a truly happy man!)
What about a Flapper Valve Doug...
I don't know if that is the right lingo, but a brass valve that only lets water go out and not in, they are like 10 bucks at the Depot
I don't know if that is the right lingo, but a brass valve that only lets water go out and not in, they are like 10 bucks at the Depot
Check valve
A check valve is fine for some things, but what I REALLY want are true seacocks that can read my mind.
A check valve is fine for some things, but what I REALLY want are true seacocks that can read my mind.
Wouldn't it be nice...
To have selenoids on the seacocks? Flip a switch in the cockpit and they open; flip it back and they close. I know that there are all kinds of arguments against this idea, but wouldn't it be nice... Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
To have selenoids on the seacocks? Flip a switch in the cockpit and they open; flip it back and they close. I know that there are all kinds of arguments against this idea, but wouldn't it be nice... Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
battery storage
Here's an idea for the shower sump. My boat came (previous owner) with the sump pump removed and in its place were four deep cell batteries to go with the other two under the head sink. Living about a quarter mile from the sun we have no need to get out of the cold weather and find showering in the cockpit the only way to go. Of course in marina's and crowded anchorages we use descretion. We have adapted to showering down below in time of need but those times are few and far between for our type of cruising. Just one more idea for an area that few seem to acutually use.
Here's an idea for the shower sump. My boat came (previous owner) with the sump pump removed and in its place were four deep cell batteries to go with the other two under the head sink. Living about a quarter mile from the sun we have no need to get out of the cold weather and find showering in the cockpit the only way to go. Of course in marina's and crowded anchorages we use descretion. We have adapted to showering down below in time of need but those times are few and far between for our type of cruising. Just one more idea for an area that few seem to acutually use.
And Vetus makes just what you need!
In their current catalog, they show two electric sea cocks with matching controls. I thought it would be cool as well, until I checked out the price. Five Hundred bucks (for the small one) was just a little more cool than I needed to spend. The link is below.
In their current catalog, they show two electric sea cocks with matching controls. I thought it would be cool as well, until I checked out the price. Five Hundred bucks (for the small one) was just a little more cool than I needed to spend. The link is below.
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