OK - I know I'm not supposed to be putting extra holes in the hull, but I was reattaching a strainer over the raw water thru hull, and the drill bit went through the entire thickness of the hull, which looks to be about a half inch at that point. (The bit was only about 1/8 inch or so in diameter.) I filled the hole with 5200, put more 5200 on the silicon bronze screws that I was using to attach the bronze strainer, and continued to attach the strainer. Now I'm having second thoughts about whether this was the correct solution or not, so I thought I'd ask the board here whether I should do something else or let it be. Any thoughts on this?
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You should never...
...have put the screws in with 5200 unless they are in forever. When it comes time to remove them you'll see what I mean. You will probably have to drill them out. I have to ask, why you used 5200 with the screws? You would have been better off filling the hole with an epoxy filler and redrilling after it hardened.
...have put the screws in with 5200 unless they are in forever. When it comes time to remove them you'll see what I mean. You will probably have to drill them out. I have to ask, why you used 5200 with the screws? You would have been better off filling the hole with an epoxy filler and redrilling after it hardened.
Sealer?
It has been recommended by my boat yard to use 3M 4200 as a sealer when punching holes for screws into (not through) the hull. I'm getting ready to do the same on my L37, but I will be removing the old mushroom thru-hull and installing an integrated thru-hull w/ slotted strainer that also has 4 self-tapping screws into the hull. All I have to do is put started holes for the screws. To avoid going too deep into the hull, wrap masking tape around the drill bit and leave about 1/8" exposed. This will be a depth marker for the screw. My hull is about 3/4" thick at the point of insertion.
It has been recommended by my boat yard to use 3M 4200 as a sealer when punching holes for screws into (not through) the hull. I'm getting ready to do the same on my L37, but I will be removing the old mushroom thru-hull and installing an integrated thru-hull w/ slotted strainer that also has 4 self-tapping screws into the hull. All I have to do is put started holes for the screws. To avoid going too deep into the hull, wrap masking tape around the drill bit and leave about 1/8" exposed. This will be a depth marker for the screw. My hull is about 3/4" thick at the point of insertion.
Agree with Rick
I agree with Rick, keep an eye on it, (hopefully it is in a location that allows for easy monitoring) if it leaks (which I doubt) then it'll be time to figure out the best way to fix it. Fair Winds
I agree with Rick, keep an eye on it, (hopefully it is in a location that allows for easy monitoring) if it leaks (which I doubt) then it'll be time to figure out the best way to fix it. Fair Winds
What my boat guy did...
was to repair it with fiberglass matt and epoxy about 8" in diameter. We weren't re-drilling though. He was just an idiot and drilled through my skeg when trying to make holes for water to escape from the hull to dry it out for an epoxy bottom. (this was on a Ranger 29). It lasted the next 5 yrs that I had it, but is long gone now. If I were you, now that you have 5200 there, is leave it alone. Good luck!
was to repair it with fiberglass matt and epoxy about 8" in diameter. We weren't re-drilling though. He was just an idiot and drilled through my skeg when trying to make holes for water to escape from the hull to dry it out for an epoxy bottom. (this was on a Ranger 29). It lasted the next 5 yrs that I had it, but is long gone now. If I were you, now that you have 5200 there, is leave it alone. Good luck!
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