I am a first time boat owner (Catalina 27) who has an older RACOR model 200FG with the clear bowl at the bottom. I can see quite a bit of sediment that needs to be drained. If I loosen/depress the nipple and drain the gunk, will air be introduced to the filter housing? Can I just fill the filter with fresh diesel without having to bleed? I have a Universal Model M-18 (14hp) that I'm sure is not self bleeding like the new Westerbekes. Guess I have a little stage fright with having to bleed my engine for the first time if in fact I will need to. I guess my filter is about the same height as my fuel tank but I think the end of the fuel pick up tube is below the lowest level of the fuel filter drain.
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Tim
Open the filter drain and if fuel/sediment comes out, new fuel from the tank will necessarily be entering the filter to replace the void created. If nothing drains, that would indicate the filter is too high and sucking air back into the system in which case you will need to remove the filter and bleed the system. In either case, it's a good idea to replace the filter(s) frequently which will require bleeding the system. You might also want to check the tank itself for sediment by either opening it's drain if one exists or sucking some fuel from the bottom of the tank to visually inspect it. The general "rule" is to replace all filters annually.
Open the filter drain and if fuel/sediment comes out, new fuel from the tank will necessarily be entering the filter to replace the void created. If nothing drains, that would indicate the filter is too high and sucking air back into the system in which case you will need to remove the filter and bleed the system. In either case, it's a good idea to replace the filter(s) frequently which will require bleeding the system. You might also want to check the tank itself for sediment by either opening it's drain if one exists or sucking some fuel from the bottom of the tank to visually inspect it. The general "rule" is to replace all filters annually.
Practice
It's a good idea to do a bleed run through while you are at the dock anyway, this way if you ever need to do it under less than perfect circumstances while cruising, you are familiar with the proceedure and locations of all the bleed screws. At the dock if you run into trouble, help is close by.
It's a good idea to do a bleed run through while you are at the dock anyway, this way if you ever need to do it under less than perfect circumstances while cruising, you are familiar with the proceedure and locations of all the bleed screws. At the dock if you run into trouble, help is close by.
Don't Usually Bleed mine
I turn off the fuel valve before opening anything, the valve between the filter and the tank. Then I remove the filter drain and clean the bowl. I have a pint or so of diesel ready to refill the bowl after I put in a new filter. I fill the bowl so that a little fuel comes out when I put on the top and the filter. Open the valve and start the engine. I've done this several times with no problems. I did get air in the system once and went through the system bleeding out air using the small pump mounted on the engine starting distal to the engine and doing the final bleed at the injectors. Pump until you stop seeing bubbles. This is changing the first filter. If I change the filter mounted on the engine I do bleed from there to the injectors.
I turn off the fuel valve before opening anything, the valve between the filter and the tank. Then I remove the filter drain and clean the bowl. I have a pint or so of diesel ready to refill the bowl after I put in a new filter. I fill the bowl so that a little fuel comes out when I put on the top and the filter. Open the valve and start the engine. I've done this several times with no problems. I did get air in the system once and went through the system bleeding out air using the small pump mounted on the engine starting distal to the engine and doing the final bleed at the injectors. Pump until you stop seeing bubbles. This is changing the first filter. If I change the filter mounted on the engine I do bleed from there to the injectors.
Good advice
Good advice in responses. No need to bleed, just fill the Racor as much as you can and start the engine. Learn how to bleed before you "need" to bleed. It is really super easy and should be the first thing that you do if the engine stops. Nine times out of ten, when the engine stops it is because of air in the lines and bleeding will get you going. Keep a wrench the size of the bleeder bolts handy in the galley or nav station so you don't have to go digging for it when you need it. Once you have done it a couple of times you should be able to bleed the fuel lines in about one minute. If your engine does not start in a minute or so of cranking. Stop cranking and go close the raw water intake before you crank more. If you don't the raw water pump will keep pumping water but if the engine is not running so there is no exhaust to blow out the cooling water. When this happens water will keep filling the aqua lift until it spills over the riser and floods the engine through the valves. That is how most people destroy their diesel. Good luck.
Good advice in responses. No need to bleed, just fill the Racor as much as you can and start the engine. Learn how to bleed before you "need" to bleed. It is really super easy and should be the first thing that you do if the engine stops. Nine times out of ten, when the engine stops it is because of air in the lines and bleeding will get you going. Keep a wrench the size of the bleeder bolts handy in the galley or nav station so you don't have to go digging for it when you need it. Once you have done it a couple of times you should be able to bleed the fuel lines in about one minute. If your engine does not start in a minute or so of cranking. Stop cranking and go close the raw water intake before you crank more. If you don't the raw water pump will keep pumping water but if the engine is not running so there is no exhaust to blow out the cooling water. When this happens water will keep filling the aqua lift until it spills over the riser and floods the engine through the valves. That is how most people destroy their diesel. Good luck.
Bleeding
Hi, Does you boat have an electric fuel pump? If so, bleeding the air is very easy. Messy, but easy. If you don't have an electric fuel pump, I don't know how to do it. With the electric pump all you do is turn the engine switch to run. That starts the fuel pump. Then open the bleed valve and wait until a solid stream of fuel is coming out. Close the bleed valve and you are done. You should be able to find the bleed valve by reading the owner's manual for the engine. If you don't have one, get one (Torreson is a good place to get it). Then, as others have suggested, try it at the dock or mooring. To answer you original question, if all you are doing is draining water or sediment from the filter you don't need to bleed it. In fact, some racor filters have a small priming pump built into the filter. It's a small plunger that you can manually work to fill the filter with fuel. Good luck, Barry
Hi, Does you boat have an electric fuel pump? If so, bleeding the air is very easy. Messy, but easy. If you don't have an electric fuel pump, I don't know how to do it. With the electric pump all you do is turn the engine switch to run. That starts the fuel pump. Then open the bleed valve and wait until a solid stream of fuel is coming out. Close the bleed valve and you are done. You should be able to find the bleed valve by reading the owner's manual for the engine. If you don't have one, get one (Torreson is a good place to get it). Then, as others have suggested, try it at the dock or mooring. To answer you original question, if all you are doing is draining water or sediment from the filter you don't need to bleed it. In fact, some racor filters have a small priming pump built into the filter. It's a small plunger that you can manually work to fill the filter with fuel. Good luck, Barry
No
If you drain the sediment via opening the valve on the bottom of the filter and air doesn't get into the filter you do no have to bleed, even if alittle does, you will be fine, on the other hand, if you have to remove the bowl, simply refill the filter with fuel, then open the line and use the little thumb primer found inline somewhere before the filter and the tank.
If you drain the sediment via opening the valve on the bottom of the filter and air doesn't get into the filter you do no have to bleed, even if alittle does, you will be fine, on the other hand, if you have to remove the bowl, simply refill the filter with fuel, then open the line and use the little thumb primer found inline somewhere before the filter and the tank.
M-18 fuel Bleed
Hi Tim, The M-18 is self bleeding. Turning on the ignition will turn on the electric fuel pump and recycle the fuel to the fuel tank return. However I never trusted it, so I manually bleed it. You will need some gallon zip lock bags and a container. I am not familiar with your Racor, but I think there is a bleed screw on top or near the top. Put the bag under the filter and bleed. Next go to the engine fuel filter. There is a bleed screw on top. Put a bag under it and open the screw and bleed fuel out of it. If you are replacing the fuel filter, pull the hose off it and run fuel into the new filter before you attach it. After bleeding it go to the injector bleed screw located just foward of the air filter. Put a rag next to the engine and a bag under the screw. The bag will get most of the fuel and any drips will be caught with the rag. Bleed to your hearts content and your done, except in some circumstances. There is a small filter on the bottom of of the fuel pump. You will see a nut on the bottom of the pump. Turning the nut will drop the bottom and reveal the small filter. Clean it or replace it. Depending on your installation, the pump will be located after the Racor or before the Racor. It's a pretty gross filter so most of the time you will not have to bother with it unless you have really gunky fuel. I will try to post the replacement filter vendor. Th engine filter is a 10 micron filter. If you use a 10 micron or less Racor filter you will rarely have to replace the engine filter since the Racor will pick up most of the gunk. With a clear Racor bowl, you can see if you have any problems. Keeping clean fuel is the most important thing for a diesel. Use a additive that provides lubrication and heightens the cetane rating and an anti-algea additive. Top your tank off for winter storage. Look at the Catalina Mainsheet magazine for maintainance advice on the 27. Good luck.
Hi Tim, The M-18 is self bleeding. Turning on the ignition will turn on the electric fuel pump and recycle the fuel to the fuel tank return. However I never trusted it, so I manually bleed it. You will need some gallon zip lock bags and a container. I am not familiar with your Racor, but I think there is a bleed screw on top or near the top. Put the bag under the filter and bleed. Next go to the engine fuel filter. There is a bleed screw on top. Put a bag under it and open the screw and bleed fuel out of it. If you are replacing the fuel filter, pull the hose off it and run fuel into the new filter before you attach it. After bleeding it go to the injector bleed screw located just foward of the air filter. Put a rag next to the engine and a bag under the screw. The bag will get most of the fuel and any drips will be caught with the rag. Bleed to your hearts content and your done, except in some circumstances. There is a small filter on the bottom of of the fuel pump. You will see a nut on the bottom of the pump. Turning the nut will drop the bottom and reveal the small filter. Clean it or replace it. Depending on your installation, the pump will be located after the Racor or before the Racor. It's a pretty gross filter so most of the time you will not have to bother with it unless you have really gunky fuel. I will try to post the replacement filter vendor. Th engine filter is a 10 micron filter. If you use a 10 micron or less Racor filter you will rarely have to replace the engine filter since the Racor will pick up most of the gunk. With a clear Racor bowl, you can see if you have any problems. Keeping clean fuel is the most important thing for a diesel. Use a additive that provides lubrication and heightens the cetane rating and an anti-algea additive. Top your tank off for winter storage. Look at the Catalina Mainsheet magazine for maintainance advice on the 27. Good luck.
Replace the Filter!
Tim I have the M-18 and the same Racor setup. If sediment is breaking through the filter that may not be good. Its good preventative maintenance to replace both filters (Racor and the one mounted to the engine). Go to the Universal Marine Diesel Website, search for the M -18, check out fuel filter replacement and you can get instructions and illustrations. Filter is cheap an d comes with a gasket. Its very easy to replace (fuel lever at tank off, bleeder screw on top to release excess pressure, twist off, drain, remove filter and gasket, replace fuel and gasket)......do not stop here........ Find the RACOR, use a rubber banded type cannister wrench (any autoparts store), put a bucket or bowl under filter (grab metal filter itself not the clear bowl thats screwed onto the bottom of the filter unit, twist off, let drain in bucket or bowl, remove clear drain unit with another rubber wrench while holding the metal filter with the rubber wrench, and twist off the clear drain unit. Watch where the gasket go on both the metal filter and the bowl. The RACOR replacements are at West Marine. Several gaskets will come with the kits with instuctions. Its a piece of cake to put it all back together. Snug it all down and put it back on. Do not forget to lubricate the gasket on top of the metal filter with fuel oil that will seal against the housing. No different then an auto engine filter. No need to do any bleeding of the RACOR at this point. It will fill up and flow over tot he en gine mounted unit. Now clean up any spilled fuel, open that gas turn off lever, turn the key on WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE so that the fuel pump fills the RACOR unit then the engine filter (the bleeder screw must be cracked open on the engine mounted filter to purge air and allow effective bleeding. Once fuel spills out of the bleeder, tighten down. Key off, wait a few minutes, clean up any spillage, and start the engine. You may have to bleed again if it struggles. For safety I had my buddy standing by with a fire extinguisher because of some spilled fuel near the engine. SAFETY FIRST!!!!!. New filters and a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Check out Torrensen (sp) Marine on the web for OEM parts and confirmatory instructions. Good luck Bob
Tim I have the M-18 and the same Racor setup. If sediment is breaking through the filter that may not be good. Its good preventative maintenance to replace both filters (Racor and the one mounted to the engine). Go to the Universal Marine Diesel Website, search for the M -18, check out fuel filter replacement and you can get instructions and illustrations. Filter is cheap an d comes with a gasket. Its very easy to replace (fuel lever at tank off, bleeder screw on top to release excess pressure, twist off, drain, remove filter and gasket, replace fuel and gasket)......do not stop here........ Find the RACOR, use a rubber banded type cannister wrench (any autoparts store), put a bucket or bowl under filter (grab metal filter itself not the clear bowl thats screwed onto the bottom of the filter unit, twist off, let drain in bucket or bowl, remove clear drain unit with another rubber wrench while holding the metal filter with the rubber wrench, and twist off the clear drain unit. Watch where the gasket go on both the metal filter and the bowl. The RACOR replacements are at West Marine. Several gaskets will come with the kits with instuctions. Its a piece of cake to put it all back together. Snug it all down and put it back on. Do not forget to lubricate the gasket on top of the metal filter with fuel oil that will seal against the housing. No different then an auto engine filter. No need to do any bleeding of the RACOR at this point. It will fill up and flow over tot he en gine mounted unit. Now clean up any spilled fuel, open that gas turn off lever, turn the key on WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE so that the fuel pump fills the RACOR unit then the engine filter (the bleeder screw must be cracked open on the engine mounted filter to purge air and allow effective bleeding. Once fuel spills out of the bleeder, tighten down. Key off, wait a few minutes, clean up any spillage, and start the engine. You may have to bleed again if it struggles. For safety I had my buddy standing by with a fire extinguisher because of some spilled fuel near the engine. SAFETY FIRST!!!!!. New filters and a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Check out Torrensen (sp) Marine on the web for OEM parts and confirmatory instructions. Good luck Bob
M-18 not self bleeding
But it is easy http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-bleeding-fuel-system.html
But it is easy http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-bleeding-fuel-system.html
Bleeder
Tim.. I failed to mention that the bleeder itself is not the small bolt that holds the fuel filter cannister together, but if I recall a small knob aside of the filter (in-the fuel line) that you open and close to bleed. The M-18 fuel bleeding is very easy. Bob
Tim.. I failed to mention that the bleeder itself is not the small bolt that holds the fuel filter cannister together, but if I recall a small knob aside of the filter (in-the fuel line) that you open and close to bleed. The M-18 fuel bleeding is very easy. Bob
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