I keep reading about draining the fuel tank every season, diesel, and I can't figure out how to do it. I see no drain cock. The only two ways I see is through the filler, which seems difficult to get the hose to the lowest point, or removing the guage. Ive read about drilling a whole and adding a fuel cap, but what do you do with the metal pieces that will fall into the tank?
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Why drain it?
Jim: Why drain it? It is diesel fuel, not gasoline. Gasoline will break down and form varnish. Just add your biocide and fill the tank. You do not want water to form on the inside of the tank causing condensation (aka: h20). With a full tank and the biocide you should be just fine.
Jim: Why drain it? It is diesel fuel, not gasoline. Gasoline will break down and form varnish. Just add your biocide and fill the tank. You do not want water to form on the inside of the tank causing condensation (aka: h20). With a full tank and the biocide you should be just fine.
I'm with Steve
Been leaving the diesel tank full and with biocide for 11 years without problems. Boat is out of the water 6 months each year.
Been leaving the diesel tank full and with biocide for 11 years without problems. Boat is out of the water 6 months each year.
Fungus Amungus
I've got a '90 H30, and had a real problem with fungus (see above posts)and water in the tank from previous owner neglect. The filter would clog and the engine would quit, especially after brisk sailing when the tank would get sloshed around. If you don't have this problem, follow above posts advice. If you do, cut a 4 inch inspection port with a hole saw and insert a standard screw in Beckson deck plate. Seal with silicone only, polysulfide sealer will crack the plate. Purchase a small drill driven pump (hose comes with it) and drain/vacuum your tank into large gas or jerry cans. Clean the tank with rags until spotless. Refuel, keep tanks full, especially in cooler months, use biocide, and you'll never have another problem. Contact me for more details.
I've got a '90 H30, and had a real problem with fungus (see above posts)and water in the tank from previous owner neglect. The filter would clog and the engine would quit, especially after brisk sailing when the tank would get sloshed around. If you don't have this problem, follow above posts advice. If you do, cut a 4 inch inspection port with a hole saw and insert a standard screw in Beckson deck plate. Seal with silicone only, polysulfide sealer will crack the plate. Purchase a small drill driven pump (hose comes with it) and drain/vacuum your tank into large gas or jerry cans. Clean the tank with rags until spotless. Refuel, keep tanks full, especially in cooler months, use biocide, and you'll never have another problem. Contact me for more details.
Metal filings in tank.
I thought that vintage Hunter had a plastic tank. If aluminum and you want a hole then make it a cleanout port, at least 6" with a screw-in deck plate. Then you can reach in and cleanout your cuttings. And any other crap from time to time. The reason some of us empty the tank instead of filling it is because of size. I rarely have more than 15 gallons in a 50 gallon tank. If I filled it then the diesel fuel would be 100 years old before I used half of it.
I thought that vintage Hunter had a plastic tank. If aluminum and you want a hole then make it a cleanout port, at least 6" with a screw-in deck plate. Then you can reach in and cleanout your cuttings. And any other crap from time to time. The reason some of us empty the tank instead of filling it is because of size. I rarely have more than 15 gallons in a 50 gallon tank. If I filled it then the diesel fuel would be 100 years old before I used half of it.
Here is how you do it ED!
First off, you don't drill any holes!!! Get about 20 feet of hose. Cut in into 15' and 5 ft sections. Take the 15' section and feed in into your tank. Connect the other end to a small hand pump. Connect the 5' section to the pump. Pump the old fuel into containers and dispose off properly.
First off, you don't drill any holes!!! Get about 20 feet of hose. Cut in into 15' and 5 ft sections. Take the 15' section and feed in into your tank. Connect the other end to a small hand pump. Connect the 5' section to the pump. Pump the old fuel into containers and dispose off properly.
Agreed Jim.
That is, in fact, the way that I pump out my tank. Only I use two 5' hose sections, one on each end of the drill-mounted pump. The only way that you can be sure the hose end is at the pickup point(where all the crap collects) is to have a hole right above it. In fact the H37C has that hole from the factory, just remove the fuel gauge. But that hole is not large enough to be used as a cleanout port. And my tank requires two cleanout ports because there is a baffle across the middle of the tank.
That is, in fact, the way that I pump out my tank. Only I use two 5' hose sections, one on each end of the drill-mounted pump. The only way that you can be sure the hose end is at the pickup point(where all the crap collects) is to have a hole right above it. In fact the H37C has that hole from the factory, just remove the fuel gauge. But that hole is not large enough to be used as a cleanout port. And my tank requires two cleanout ports because there is a baffle across the middle of the tank.
no reason not to put hose down fill hose.
Jim: If you are going to pump out the tank, there is no reason not to put the hose down the fill hose from the deck fitting. The only reason not to do this would be if you had an elbow or something that would prevent it from entering the tank!
Jim: If you are going to pump out the tank, there is no reason not to put the hose down the fill hose from the deck fitting. The only reason not to do this would be if you had an elbow or something that would prevent it from entering the tank!
12 volt pump?
Couldn't you use one of those 12 volt oil change pumps that WM sells instead of a drill mounted pump? Then you'd be investing in something that did double duty for you. A previous poster said they had water AND algae in their tank. You can't have one without the other. The algae lives in the water and feeds off the oil. Eliminate the water and you eliminate the algae. But its probably easier to just use a biocide. I did, however, replace the o-rings on my fill cap last summer. Up here in the frozen north we don't have too much trouble with the algae, it doesn't get warm enough!
Couldn't you use one of those 12 volt oil change pumps that WM sells instead of a drill mounted pump? Then you'd be investing in something that did double duty for you. A previous poster said they had water AND algae in their tank. You can't have one without the other. The algae lives in the water and feeds off the oil. Eliminate the water and you eliminate the algae. But its probably easier to just use a biocide. I did, however, replace the o-rings on my fill cap last summer. Up here in the frozen north we don't have too much trouble with the algae, it doesn't get warm enough!
Jim, WM I think.
Not sure but think it is the ShurFlo in the Related Link. I didn't mention that I have to prime it first. It is about 24" from the top of the tank to the low spot where the pickup tube is located. I dump some oil from a quart bottle into the inlet hose before putting it into the diesel tank. That pump fills a 5 gallon can in short order. In case the link does not work it is called "Pump, Flexible Impeller".
Not sure but think it is the ShurFlo in the Related Link. I didn't mention that I have to prime it first. It is about 24" from the top of the tank to the low spot where the pickup tube is located. I dump some oil from a quart bottle into the inlet hose before putting it into the diesel tank. That pump fills a 5 gallon can in short order. In case the link does not work it is called "Pump, Flexible Impeller".
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