Although I sail a Beneteau, I'm sure my question is not unique to Benes. Like many, it is time to winterize here and I've done everything except the engine (may get a few more sails in before real freezing weather sets in). I do not use antifreeze in my fresh water system. I blow out the lines instead. This requires me to disconnect and drain the water heater. The way my water heater (a 6 gallon force 10) is located, when I open the drain valve there is no way to fit anything under it to catch the water. It drains into the bowels of the lazzerette and eventually finds it way to the bilge. Not sure of the convoluted path the water takes but it takes days maybe weeks before it all gets to a place where I cam remove it. Does anyone have a better plan? Thanks Bill
Draining a water heater
- Thread starter Bill C320 Papillon
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Did ItYesterday
Just did mine yesterday and also used air to blow the water system out. Can you hook up a water hose to the hot water heater drain and drain else where while pumping air in or try a dry vac to suck it out. I let it drain into my bilge yesterday was easy. Nick
Just did mine yesterday and also used air to blow the water system out. Can you hook up a water hose to the hot water heater drain and drain else where while pumping air in or try a dry vac to suck it out. I let it drain into my bilge yesterday was easy. Nick
Nick, where is your heater drain located
On my new Hunter 36 the water heater drain is located where in order to drain the tank, the hose has a high spot (above the drain) before I can reach the sump. I tried pressuring the system with air and blowing out the lines but didn't seem to make any headway. I got concerned and it was getting late in the day and I didn't want to make another trip (yard is 25 miles from my home), so I sprung for 5 gal of non toxic and ran it through the water heater. Funny thing is, it seems like the water pump will just about drain up the heater if left running until the water flow stops ( I was able to recover most of the Anti freeze)so now I'm wondering if the HWT was already drained up and that is why the air pressure didn't force any water out....just an observation that has me a little puzzled.
On my new Hunter 36 the water heater drain is located where in order to drain the tank, the hose has a high spot (above the drain) before I can reach the sump. I tried pressuring the system with air and blowing out the lines but didn't seem to make any headway. I got concerned and it was getting late in the day and I didn't want to make another trip (yard is 25 miles from my home), so I sprung for 5 gal of non toxic and ran it through the water heater. Funny thing is, it seems like the water pump will just about drain up the heater if left running until the water flow stops ( I was able to recover most of the Anti freeze)so now I'm wondering if the HWT was already drained up and that is why the air pressure didn't force any water out....just an observation that has me a little puzzled.
good ideas but
Thanks but unfortunately, there is no room to get a garden hose connected to the drain valve, much less run to the main bilge. I've already drained the heater for this year and I'm still sponging out water but I'm looking for better ideas for next year. The water heater is inside a cockpit lazzerette which drains to a series of partitioned bilges, some of which are impossible to see. The boat has very shallow bilge(s) (meant to be, and is a dry boat) except when i drain the water heater. Unfortunately the bilge with the bilge pump requires the water to get a couple inches deep in all the other little bilges before it reaches the pump. Thats my problem, all the little ponding bilges along the way retain water and I have to sponge them out. The fitting for the "cold water in" hose is near the bottom of the heater and has a one way valve built in so draining backward through that line won't work. The "hot water out" hose is near the top so I would have to lift the entire 6 gallons inside the tank to force it out to the faucets and all I'd probably accomplish is blowing bubbles. Thanks for the help though. Bill
Thanks but unfortunately, there is no room to get a garden hose connected to the drain valve, much less run to the main bilge. I've already drained the heater for this year and I'm still sponging out water but I'm looking for better ideas for next year. The water heater is inside a cockpit lazzerette which drains to a series of partitioned bilges, some of which are impossible to see. The boat has very shallow bilge(s) (meant to be, and is a dry boat) except when i drain the water heater. Unfortunately the bilge with the bilge pump requires the water to get a couple inches deep in all the other little bilges before it reaches the pump. Thats my problem, all the little ponding bilges along the way retain water and I have to sponge them out. The fitting for the "cold water in" hose is near the bottom of the heater and has a one way valve built in so draining backward through that line won't work. The "hot water out" hose is near the top so I would have to lift the entire 6 gallons inside the tank to force it out to the faucets and all I'd probably accomplish is blowing bubbles. Thanks for the help though. Bill
Something I noticed about hot water heaters
A couple of years ago I decided to drain my hot water tank too instead of antifreeze and the following spring when I turned all the water on I noticed a foul stagnet water smell coming from the the hot water faucet which has me believe that I didn't get all the water out and I now antifreeze it and recover most of the stuff in the spring and keep on recycling it.
A couple of years ago I decided to drain my hot water tank too instead of antifreeze and the following spring when I turned all the water on I noticed a foul stagnet water smell coming from the the hot water faucet which has me believe that I didn't get all the water out and I now antifreeze it and recover most of the stuff in the spring and keep on recycling it.
Garden Hose and drill pump
Hi Bill, We've had good weather and strong winds here in the midwest. Fall sailing has been great on Mark Twain Lake...or so I've been told. Dragonfly has been on the trailer for the last 6 weeks redoing the bottom and fixing a damaged rudder. You might recall I had Prairie Zepher a B285 for a couple of years before we bought Dragonfly B331. The water heater was in a small compartment behind the head. It was a real pain to get to. As I recall I cut the end from a 3/8 inch graden hose. It fit inside the drain valve -- as you suggest, no room to screw a hose fitting onto the drain. I secured it in place with some wide masking tape. Not a good fix, but better than nothing. I used a small pump that attached to a drill to suck the water out. I still got water in the bilge, but it was better than draining all into the bilge. The water heater is under the starboard seatee on Dragonfly. I found a heater bypass kit at the local RV store. Once installed, I turn 2 valves and the water bypassed the heater. I open the heater drain and it drains into the bilge. Still a little messy, but better than on B285. I usually takes a couple of weeks to get all the water out. Good luck. Mark and the other "Dragonfly" B331 ;-)
Hi Bill, We've had good weather and strong winds here in the midwest. Fall sailing has been great on Mark Twain Lake...or so I've been told. Dragonfly has been on the trailer for the last 6 weeks redoing the bottom and fixing a damaged rudder. You might recall I had Prairie Zepher a B285 for a couple of years before we bought Dragonfly B331. The water heater was in a small compartment behind the head. It was a real pain to get to. As I recall I cut the end from a 3/8 inch graden hose. It fit inside the drain valve -- as you suggest, no room to screw a hose fitting onto the drain. I secured it in place with some wide masking tape. Not a good fix, but better than nothing. I used a small pump that attached to a drill to suck the water out. I still got water in the bilge, but it was better than draining all into the bilge. The water heater is under the starboard seatee on Dragonfly. I found a heater bypass kit at the local RV store. Once installed, I turn 2 valves and the water bypassed the heater. I open the heater drain and it drains into the bilge. Still a little messy, but better than on B285. I usually takes a couple of weeks to get all the water out. Good luck. Mark and the other "Dragonfly" B331 ;-)
Water Heater Drain-36
Don't understand why when I used air to blow out water system with air that the water heater did not empty but while pressurized it did empty when I opened the drain value. I let the water drain out the drain value under the water heater and most went into the bilge and used the wet vac for any access water and keep a towel handy for the floor but like I said almost all the water go's to the bilge. Nick
Don't understand why when I used air to blow out water system with air that the water heater did not empty but while pressurized it did empty when I opened the drain value. I let the water drain out the drain value under the water heater and most went into the bilge and used the wet vac for any access water and keep a towel handy for the floor but like I said almost all the water go's to the bilge. Nick
Open the Pressure Relief Valve to Drain
I drained my water heater this week end. The drain tap near the bottom of the tank has a valve with threads to connect a hose, but I was worried I wouldn't get all the water out. I took out the screws that hold the tank down and pushed it back far enough to get a shallow tupperware container under the valve and baled the water into a bucket. Be sure to open the vent valve near the top of the tank to allow the water to flow out the drain. The drain just drips if you don't pry open the vent valve with the lever latch. Because I removed the 4 screws that hold the tank in place I could lift up the end to the tank and drain out every drop. The water in the bottom was cloudy with a slight rust color, so I think I got out the accumulated sediment. Bob R. Unfurled H356
I drained my water heater this week end. The drain tap near the bottom of the tank has a valve with threads to connect a hose, but I was worried I wouldn't get all the water out. I took out the screws that hold the tank down and pushed it back far enough to get a shallow tupperware container under the valve and baled the water into a bucket. Be sure to open the vent valve near the top of the tank to allow the water to flow out the drain. The drain just drips if you don't pry open the vent valve with the lever latch. Because I removed the 4 screws that hold the tank in place I could lift up the end to the tank and drain out every drop. The water in the bottom was cloudy with a slight rust color, so I think I got out the accumulated sediment. Bob R. Unfurled H356
Thanks all
Mark, The water heater bypass kit sounds interesting. You all have given me some good ideas. Within the next 30 min. I'm heading for the boat to remove some more water from the ponded bilges, put all the sole boards back in place, straighten things up a little, and take advantage of the predicted 70 degree sunny day with 16 kt winds (early retirement is OK). Tomorrow I'll study my water heater some more and see how I can put some of your suggestions into play next year. As an aside, when I bought the boat, the PO neglected to winterize/drain the water heater and it took me quite a while to figure out why my water system wouldn't pressure up, and why I kept finding water in all my little bilges. I finally removed the water heater and took off the cover. The tank looked like someone had split it with a hatchet. That's why I'm so interested in getting the heater drained. Thanks Again Bill
Mark, The water heater bypass kit sounds interesting. You all have given me some good ideas. Within the next 30 min. I'm heading for the boat to remove some more water from the ponded bilges, put all the sole boards back in place, straighten things up a little, and take advantage of the predicted 70 degree sunny day with 16 kt winds (early retirement is OK). Tomorrow I'll study my water heater some more and see how I can put some of your suggestions into play next year. As an aside, when I bought the boat, the PO neglected to winterize/drain the water heater and it took me quite a while to figure out why my water system wouldn't pressure up, and why I kept finding water in all my little bilges. I finally removed the water heater and took off the cover. The tank looked like someone had split it with a hatchet. That's why I'm so interested in getting the heater drained. Thanks Again Bill
Jim
I guess I can't be positive that it all drains into the bilges, but they are bone dry before I drain the heater and I remove quite a bit of water until they remain bone dry again. If there are low areas where any water ponds, they have to be below the water line and we pay the marina to keep agitators under our boats to prevent icing so I have to trust that any water below the water line will remain water over the winter. By the way, yesterdays predicted 16 kt winds turned into 22+ kt winds. Great sail. Bill
I guess I can't be positive that it all drains into the bilges, but they are bone dry before I drain the heater and I remove quite a bit of water until they remain bone dry again. If there are low areas where any water ponds, they have to be below the water line and we pay the marina to keep agitators under our boats to prevent icing so I have to trust that any water below the water line will remain water over the winter. By the way, yesterdays predicted 16 kt winds turned into 22+ kt winds. Great sail. Bill
Great Idea
With my fondness for vodka martinis, maybe I'll just fill 49 gal of the 50 gal water tank with the stuff, add a gallon of vermouth and never have to winterize the system again. I'll keep a good supply of olives and ice and have martinis on tap. The motion of the boat will keep them shaken, not stirred of course.
With my fondness for vodka martinis, maybe I'll just fill 49 gal of the 50 gal water tank with the stuff, add a gallon of vermouth and never have to winterize the system again. I'll keep a good supply of olives and ice and have martinis on tap. The motion of the boat will keep them shaken, not stirred of course.
Great Idea
With my fondness for vodka martinis, maybe I'll just fill 49 gal of the 50 gal water tank with the stuff, add a gallon of vermouth and never have to winterize the system again. I'll keep a good supply of olives and ice and have martinis on tap. The motion of the boat will keep them shaken, not stirred of course.
With my fondness for vodka martinis, maybe I'll just fill 49 gal of the 50 gal water tank with the stuff, add a gallon of vermouth and never have to winterize the system again. I'll keep a good supply of olives and ice and have martinis on tap. The motion of the boat will keep them shaken, not stirred of course.
Waterheater Petcock drain
Our 5 gal water heater (Hunter 28.5) has a metal petcock type drain in the bottom forward side. After runnung the electric pump dry and disconnecting the water lines, we attach about a 1/4" clear plastic line to the petcock drain connecting the other end to the same hand pump we use to remove crankcase oil out of the Yanmar dipstick hole. The hand pump discharge tube can be run into gallon jugs and dumped overboard.
Our 5 gal water heater (Hunter 28.5) has a metal petcock type drain in the bottom forward side. After runnung the electric pump dry and disconnecting the water lines, we attach about a 1/4" clear plastic line to the petcock drain connecting the other end to the same hand pump we use to remove crankcase oil out of the Yanmar dipstick hole. The hand pump discharge tube can be run into gallon jugs and dumped overboard.
Waterheater Petcock drain
Our 5 gal water heater (Hunter 28.5) has a metal petcock type drain in the bottom forward side. After runnung the electric pump dry and disconnecting the water lines, we attach about a 1/4" clear plastic line to the petcock drain connecting the other end to the same hand pump we use to remove crankcase oil out of the Yanmar dipstick hole. The hand pump discharge tube can be run into gallon jugs and dumped overboard.
Our 5 gal water heater (Hunter 28.5) has a metal petcock type drain in the bottom forward side. After runnung the electric pump dry and disconnecting the water lines, we attach about a 1/4" clear plastic line to the petcock drain connecting the other end to the same hand pump we use to remove crankcase oil out of the Yanmar dipstick hole. The hand pump discharge tube can be run into gallon jugs and dumped overboard.
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