My question is about downwind racing tactics. I sail in a handicap fleet and have always had trouble on the downwind leg of the race. Typically, assuming a decent start, I can beat to windward and be one of the first around the mark. Then I sit and watch other boats pass by (typically Lasers and Lightnings). Problem is I then cannot seem to make up the difference, even with the handicap, on the next windward leg. I've noticed smaller boats "tacking" downwind, especially if they fly a chute. I have not sailed with a chute yet but think I should be able to stay consistent on the downwind leg and not lose so much distance. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Try using a whisker pole to set up a wing on wing
sail configuration. The whisker pole holds the jib out on the opposite side of the boat than the main. You can also raise your centerboard halfway (if you have one) to reduce friction underwater but you will roll a bit more.
sail configuration. The whisker pole holds the jib out on the opposite side of the boat than the main. You can also raise your centerboard halfway (if you have one) to reduce friction underwater but you will roll a bit more.
maybe bear off a little for more boat speed...
esp. in light winds? I'm still pretty new to this, but have noticed that when the wind is under 6-7 mph, I can make better distance to goal by heading off the wind to....I forget the name; but whatever the point of sail is between a dead run and a beam reach, even if I have to cover more ground...I keep that boat momentum going! Like I said though, I have never raced, so take this with a bag of salt!
esp. in light winds? I'm still pretty new to this, but have noticed that when the wind is under 6-7 mph, I can make better distance to goal by heading off the wind to....I forget the name; but whatever the point of sail is between a dead run and a beam reach, even if I have to cover more ground...I keep that boat momentum going! Like I said though, I have never raced, so take this with a bag of salt!
Concur with richard
By bearing up (turning toward the wind which in this case is still "going with the wind" but not so much as DDW) into the wind you can bring the foresail into operation and get a greater apparent wind speed. While you have to cover more distance it is not proportional to the increase in speed so you cover the greater distance faster than you would going the shorter route slower. The point is you add a jibe and get there faster. 15-25 degrees off DDW is a good start point. It helps to know the % increase in distance for 10, 15, 20 and 25.... so you can compare that to your increase in speed. If you increase your speed by more than you increase your distance with one jib then you will get there faster. The formula for % increase in distance is % increase in distance = 2*((0.5*tan(angle off of DDW)^2 + 0.25)^(1/2) angle % increase in distance 10 1.02 15 1.03 20 1.06 I memorize these 25 1.10 30 1.15 As you can see bearing up by 30 degrees from DDW only increases you distance by 15% so if you where going 4 knots DDW you would need to go 4*1.15=4.6 knots to break even and if you go faster you will get to the far point faster than going DDW. 0.6 knots increase by bearing up 30 degrees is pretty much guaranteed.
By bearing up (turning toward the wind which in this case is still "going with the wind" but not so much as DDW) into the wind you can bring the foresail into operation and get a greater apparent wind speed. While you have to cover more distance it is not proportional to the increase in speed so you cover the greater distance faster than you would going the shorter route slower. The point is you add a jibe and get there faster. 15-25 degrees off DDW is a good start point. It helps to know the % increase in distance for 10, 15, 20 and 25.... so you can compare that to your increase in speed. If you increase your speed by more than you increase your distance with one jib then you will get there faster. The formula for % increase in distance is % increase in distance = 2*((0.5*tan(angle off of DDW)^2 + 0.25)^(1/2) angle % increase in distance 10 1.02 15 1.03 20 1.06 I memorize these 25 1.10 30 1.15 As you can see bearing up by 30 degrees from DDW only increases you distance by 15% so if you where going 4 knots DDW you would need to go 4*1.15=4.6 knots to break even and if you go faster you will get to the far point faster than going DDW. 0.6 knots increase by bearing up 30 degrees is pretty much guaranteed.
TACK Downwind.....
Your boat should be fastest (speed and VMG to the next 'mark') downwind at about 135 deg. instead of 180 deg. At 135 deg. the "apparent" wind will be much higher and the sails will be 'dynamically flying' (as when close/beam reaching or beating). Just gybe over a few times so that you stay somewhat in the middle of the course. Tacking downwind will cover a lot more distance traveled but the **speed advantage** on bearing off ~45° off of 'true' DDW will be dramatic ... as the boat will be 'making' its own apparent wind due to the 'angles'. At DDW there is no dynamic flow over the sails, just DRAG of the wind on the sails to move you along. ( FYI ..... On some of the FAST planing hulled boats ... or iceboats .... this tactic will sometimes have the sails quite in close (as in for close reaching) due to the apparent wind coming from 'ahead' when going downwind). If you're flying a FULL set of telltales .... @ luff, midcord and leech, simply set/shape the sails so that all the tales are 'flying' or streaming back while youre going down at ~135° (or 225°). Set the boat to hold the course then set the sails to match the course .... and then keep adjusting the sails in/out as the wind pressure/speed changes .... while holding that course. The above is probably optimum for 12-15 kts. true wind. The angles will be less than 45° off deaddownwind at higher wind speeds; and coversely more at less than 10kts. FORGET bouat -- double headsails, wing on wing, etc. as they are toooooooo slow in comparison to 'tacking downwind'. If you have a GPS set a waypoiint at the downwind mark ... then shift the GPS function to VMG and then sail the course angle that gives you the HIGHEST VMG .... this is only valid at the beginning of a 'tack' and VERY unreliable at the end of a tack (due to the intricacies of 'trionometry' --- at the beginning of a tack follow highest VMG; but, forget VMG when at the end of a (long) tack.
Your boat should be fastest (speed and VMG to the next 'mark') downwind at about 135 deg. instead of 180 deg. At 135 deg. the "apparent" wind will be much higher and the sails will be 'dynamically flying' (as when close/beam reaching or beating). Just gybe over a few times so that you stay somewhat in the middle of the course. Tacking downwind will cover a lot more distance traveled but the **speed advantage** on bearing off ~45° off of 'true' DDW will be dramatic ... as the boat will be 'making' its own apparent wind due to the 'angles'. At DDW there is no dynamic flow over the sails, just DRAG of the wind on the sails to move you along. ( FYI ..... On some of the FAST planing hulled boats ... or iceboats .... this tactic will sometimes have the sails quite in close (as in for close reaching) due to the apparent wind coming from 'ahead' when going downwind). If you're flying a FULL set of telltales .... @ luff, midcord and leech, simply set/shape the sails so that all the tales are 'flying' or streaming back while youre going down at ~135° (or 225°). Set the boat to hold the course then set the sails to match the course .... and then keep adjusting the sails in/out as the wind pressure/speed changes .... while holding that course. The above is probably optimum for 12-15 kts. true wind. The angles will be less than 45° off deaddownwind at higher wind speeds; and coversely more at less than 10kts. FORGET bouat -- double headsails, wing on wing, etc. as they are toooooooo slow in comparison to 'tacking downwind'. If you have a GPS set a waypoiint at the downwind mark ... then shift the GPS function to VMG and then sail the course angle that gives you the HIGHEST VMG .... this is only valid at the beginning of a 'tack' and VERY unreliable at the end of a tack (due to the intricacies of 'trionometry' --- at the beginning of a tack follow highest VMG; but, forget VMG when at the end of a (long) tack.
Good topic
I just got back from the twilite racing I also had a problem down wind. First time doing a race 4Th time out in my boat. On the first leg I started ganing on the second to last guy and when I rounded the mark I felt like I was siting still. and they just slowly but stedily pulled away . I put a bigger jib up and it helped but buy that time it was to late. I think if I would have had the bigger jib up the hole time I might not have come in last.but you live and learn.
I just got back from the twilite racing I also had a problem down wind. First time doing a race 4Th time out in my boat. On the first leg I started ganing on the second to last guy and when I rounded the mark I felt like I was siting still. and they just slowly but stedily pulled away . I put a bigger jib up and it helped but buy that time it was to late. I think if I would have had the bigger jib up the hole time I might not have come in last.but you live and learn.
Falling into a 'hole' at the windward mark .....
Especially in 'twilight' races where the winds are usually exceedingly light ... its quite common to 'stuff' the windward mark, lose speed in rounding .... then the apparent wind to the sails decreases only to take a long time to rebuild apparent wind. The method that seems to work for me is instead of immediately bearing off to down wind immediately after rounding the mark is .... to reach-off a bit to keep the apparent wind as high as possible then sloooowly turn down wind as you sloooowly adjust the sails (trim and shape) for that leg. Once the apparent wind drops (during the rounding) ... due to all that 'motion' of the boat during the rounding, it takes a looooooong time to rebuild the speed and apprent wind. During the upwind leg the sails are usually shaped (flat) for 'speed' and going into the mark because the apparent will will drop you need to 'power-up' the shape until the speed is regained. Of coourse in REAL light conditions FLAT sails work best to avoid a 'separation' stall - use a FULL set of telltales to monitor for a 'separation stall'. Racing in LIGHT wind, BOAT SPEED is what generates the apparent wind. If/when you drop speed the apparent wind falls into a hole .... and it then takes a loooong time to rebuild speed and the apparent wind that the boats motion generates. Dont 'stuff' the windward mark. Do the rounding so that the boats momentum carries it to the next leg .... and build up SPEED before heading downwind to 'make' your apparent wind. TELL TALES on the luff, midcord, and leech are just as important in going downwind as UPwind. If youre not using a full set of tell-tales (plus a 'steering row' of 'gentry tufts') go to www.arvelgentry.com ---->magazine articles ----> and 'start' with the article on 'are you at optimum trim' (four articles in a series). In light winds its even easier to generate a 'separation' stall going downwind than up wind ... if you dont have a FULL set of tell tales you will NEVER 'see' a separation stall happening.
Especially in 'twilight' races where the winds are usually exceedingly light ... its quite common to 'stuff' the windward mark, lose speed in rounding .... then the apparent wind to the sails decreases only to take a long time to rebuild apparent wind. The method that seems to work for me is instead of immediately bearing off to down wind immediately after rounding the mark is .... to reach-off a bit to keep the apparent wind as high as possible then sloooowly turn down wind as you sloooowly adjust the sails (trim and shape) for that leg. Once the apparent wind drops (during the rounding) ... due to all that 'motion' of the boat during the rounding, it takes a looooooong time to rebuild the speed and apprent wind. During the upwind leg the sails are usually shaped (flat) for 'speed' and going into the mark because the apparent will will drop you need to 'power-up' the shape until the speed is regained. Of coourse in REAL light conditions FLAT sails work best to avoid a 'separation' stall - use a FULL set of telltales to monitor for a 'separation stall'. Racing in LIGHT wind, BOAT SPEED is what generates the apparent wind. If/when you drop speed the apparent wind falls into a hole .... and it then takes a loooong time to rebuild speed and the apparent wind that the boats motion generates. Dont 'stuff' the windward mark. Do the rounding so that the boats momentum carries it to the next leg .... and build up SPEED before heading downwind to 'make' your apparent wind. TELL TALES on the luff, midcord, and leech are just as important in going downwind as UPwind. If youre not using a full set of tell-tales (plus a 'steering row' of 'gentry tufts') go to www.arvelgentry.com ---->magazine articles ----> and 'start' with the article on 'are you at optimum trim' (four articles in a series). In light winds its even easier to generate a 'separation' stall going downwind than up wind ... if you dont have a FULL set of tell tales you will NEVER 'see' a separation stall happening.
Lotsa good stuff in the preceeding posts.
What kind of boat? Are you in a flying or non-flying group? If a spinnaker is allowed in your group/class and you're not flying one, you're giving up almost half of your sail area. The folks above are correct, don't go DDW at 180, even though it's the shortest course to the mark. "Tacking" as you say downwind gives better boat speed and as mentioned above, better VMG or "Velocity over Measured Ground". Run with the largest Genoa ya have for the conditions upwind and pole that sucker out if ya don't have a chute. If ya see the competition's chutes deflating and filling every couple of seconds, stick with the Genny. Practice, practice and more pratice. Have fun and go get a pickle dish or two.
What kind of boat? Are you in a flying or non-flying group? If a spinnaker is allowed in your group/class and you're not flying one, you're giving up almost half of your sail area. The folks above are correct, don't go DDW at 180, even though it's the shortest course to the mark. "Tacking" as you say downwind gives better boat speed and as mentioned above, better VMG or "Velocity over Measured Ground". Run with the largest Genoa ya have for the conditions upwind and pole that sucker out if ya don't have a chute. If ya see the competition's chutes deflating and filling every couple of seconds, stick with the Genny. Practice, practice and more pratice. Have fun and go get a pickle dish or two.
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