Downhaul cleat on oday 22
- Thread starter kpgraci
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The screws are probably stainless steel and they are a little corroded being in the same vicinity with the Aluminum. The problem with stainless steel is that it's so brittle that it will break. I just broke a 5/16" bolt in my mast step last week trying to remove it.
Years ago, I had a friend who used to fix outboards, chainsaws, lawn mowers, and you name it. He was a cracker jack mechanic and could fix anything. He used to give me a lot of helpful hints. I can remember one of them that he gave me for loosening corroded machine screws on an outboard motor. I don't remember trying this because I never dared doing outboard water pumps and stuff like that. I only did plugs, points, condensers, and timing on my outboard and I learned how to do it from this guy.
Anyway, he told me one day that if you ever need to remove a stubborn corroded screw from an outboard casing, just take and put the Phillips screwdriver on the screw head and with the other hand, take a blow torch and apply some heat to the metal of the screwdriver and try turning it easy. He told me that just that small amount of heat is enough sometimes to break the corrosion. I really don't know Ken. I never tried it.
If that don't work, try WD-40 or Liquid Wrench.
I had a stubborn 1/4'' SS screw on my mast step a few years ago with a large Phillips head on it. I tried everything with all my might to remove that screw with a large Phillips screwdriver. I even tried turning it with channel locks. Finally, my kid lent me his Makita cordless impact drill with a Phillips bit in the chuck and that screw came right out so easy.
For the screws that you're trying to remove, I would just use a regular Phillips screwdriver and take it very easy.
Years ago, I had a friend who used to fix outboards, chainsaws, lawn mowers, and you name it. He was a cracker jack mechanic and could fix anything. He used to give me a lot of helpful hints. I can remember one of them that he gave me for loosening corroded machine screws on an outboard motor. I don't remember trying this because I never dared doing outboard water pumps and stuff like that. I only did plugs, points, condensers, and timing on my outboard and I learned how to do it from this guy.
Anyway, he told me one day that if you ever need to remove a stubborn corroded screw from an outboard casing, just take and put the Phillips screwdriver on the screw head and with the other hand, take a blow torch and apply some heat to the metal of the screwdriver and try turning it easy. He told me that just that small amount of heat is enough sometimes to break the corrosion. I really don't know Ken. I never tried it.
If that don't work, try WD-40 or Liquid Wrench.
I had a stubborn 1/4'' SS screw on my mast step a few years ago with a large Phillips head on it. I tried everything with all my might to remove that screw with a large Phillips screwdriver. I even tried turning it with channel locks. Finally, my kid lent me his Makita cordless impact drill with a Phillips bit in the chuck and that screw came right out so easy.
For the screws that you're trying to remove, I would just use a regular Phillips screwdriver and take it very easy.
The cleat screws into the slide, I assumed the cleat-slid-screw combo held it in place - well, I'm sure it does. Problem is I was able to remove the screw (there was only one in the cleat) however the 'slide' does not slide.
I was messing with it when I really didn't have the time for it, but I did tap on it lightly with a hammer, enough to convince me it was not going to move easily.
My next step, I believe, will be to spray on some solvent. I've used heat before on stubborn bolts, I probably should not apply heat after solvent (hmmm).
If it's supposed to slide I'm sure I can make it slide
I was just wondering if it was 'supposed' to slide.
I said the cleat had only one screw. where the other screw should be is what looked like a pin (on the slide). It did not look like a twisted off or broken off bolt, but I suppose it could be. But even so, it should not be what is holding the slide in place, as there is no bolt head left. I'm not even sure if it is a bolt, I really think its a pin.
I looked on D&R and they have a downhaul cleat for a 22 that looked to be mounted on a slide. I would think even if it were stuck a light tap would free it. I suppose the if the mast were slightly warped or bent (it is an old boat) it could be bound in there, nothing a good couple of whacks won't fix, but if its designed to be fixed (as in tack welded in place) I don't what to be banging on it.
I just had a crazy idea. There is open mast track below the 'stuck' slide. I could get the downhaul cleat from D&R and slip it into the track from the bottom of the mast and let it rest up against the old slide. That would lower the cleat as needed. Is it possible this was the original setup and where my downhaul cleat is mounted is not for that purpose at all? The new sliding cleat would not even need to be secured in place, as it's upward movement would be blocked... I guess I need to see another 73 oday 22 mast to figure this out.
No, this won't work, the boom rests on the slide, that's the problem. I need some sleep. I'll go visit the boat tomorrow and figure it out.
I was messing with it when I really didn't have the time for it, but I did tap on it lightly with a hammer, enough to convince me it was not going to move easily.
My next step, I believe, will be to spray on some solvent. I've used heat before on stubborn bolts, I probably should not apply heat after solvent (hmmm).
If it's supposed to slide I'm sure I can make it slide
I was just wondering if it was 'supposed' to slide.I said the cleat had only one screw. where the other screw should be is what looked like a pin (on the slide). It did not look like a twisted off or broken off bolt, but I suppose it could be. But even so, it should not be what is holding the slide in place, as there is no bolt head left. I'm not even sure if it is a bolt, I really think its a pin.
I looked on D&R and they have a downhaul cleat for a 22 that looked to be mounted on a slide. I would think even if it were stuck a light tap would free it. I suppose the if the mast were slightly warped or bent (it is an old boat) it could be bound in there, nothing a good couple of whacks won't fix, but if its designed to be fixed (as in tack welded in place) I don't what to be banging on it.
I just had a crazy idea. There is open mast track below the 'stuck' slide. I could get the downhaul cleat from D&R and slip it into the track from the bottom of the mast and let it rest up against the old slide. That would lower the cleat as needed. Is it possible this was the original setup and where my downhaul cleat is mounted is not for that purpose at all? The new sliding cleat would not even need to be secured in place, as it's upward movement would be blocked... I guess I need to see another 73 oday 22 mast to figure this out.
No, this won't work, the boom rests on the slide, that's the problem. I need some sleep. I'll go visit the boat tomorrow and figure it out.
I think that cleat is supposed to slide Ken. The O'Day 222's have a fixed boom with no tack down haul but I've had boats in the past with a set up such as yours and the tack down haul cleat was able to be loosened so it could be adjusted up or down. Just give it a little rap with something and see if it moves. Try pouring a little Cola on it, or try baking soda and a little water. If you have to remove your tabernacle from your mast, don't forget to put some Lock-Tite on the screw threads when you go to reinstall it.
Thanks for the replies, here's a followup:
I inspected the 'pin' more closely and it is indeed a twisted off bolt, and that is the area on the slide where it is being bound to the mast track, somehow.
I guess the slide must be a two-part contraption that is locked in place when the bolts are tightened rather than what I imagined it to be, that is, held in place by the pressure of the cleat against the mast.
So I went ahead and ordered a new downhaul cleat from D&R and when it comes in I'll either easy-out or drill out the offending bolt.
All this in preparation for setting up single line reefing.
I inspected the 'pin' more closely and it is indeed a twisted off bolt, and that is the area on the slide where it is being bound to the mast track, somehow.
I guess the slide must be a two-part contraption that is locked in place when the bolts are tightened rather than what I imagined it to be, that is, held in place by the pressure of the cleat against the mast.
So I went ahead and ordered a new downhaul cleat from D&R and when it comes in I'll either easy-out or drill out the offending bolt.
All this in preparation for setting up single line reefing.
Ken,
If you can't EZ-out the machine screw you may be able to use a Dremel Tool with a cutting wheel get it out of the track. I used a Dremel to cut a thick stainless steel bail out of my boom that fit in a slot under the boom. The Dremel is a very handy tool for the boat owner.
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