of course would be a fool not to seek advice. Does anyone want to dissuade me from locating the locker floor below the existing through hull drain hole and relocating the through hull about 6 inches lower? If not, then what is the preferred drilling devise to bore through the hull, spade blade, regular bit or a hole saw? Last question: for cutting out the locker, anything better than just using an abrasive disc on my drill? Should I fork out the rental fee for a grinder? OK, that was my last question. Sunny and 60 degrees in Seattle.
- Status
Locker mod.
Just about to start same project Scott. My problem is that I know of three ways and cannot make up my mind. I am leaning toward a cut across the bottom about 8 inches forward of the back(where chainplate mounts). This will add support for the mid-stay and become a shelf for my windlass. Then take the Roto-Zip and cut out the sides and front, about two inches below the deck. Main reason is to get easy access to the bolts for the toerails, pulpit and bow roller. But then my plan was to glass in plywood sides and put the new bottom right at the present drain hole. I have 100' of new 5/16" chain, do I leave that on the new locker bottom? Or do I add a hawse pipe and put it on the keel? I hope you will use this forum to post your ideas and progress Scott. And I am sure you know how Gene did it(Related Link).
Just about to start same project Scott. My problem is that I know of three ways and cannot make up my mind. I am leaning toward a cut across the bottom about 8 inches forward of the back(where chainplate mounts). This will add support for the mid-stay and become a shelf for my windlass. Then take the Roto-Zip and cut out the sides and front, about two inches below the deck. Main reason is to get easy access to the bolts for the toerails, pulpit and bow roller. But then my plan was to glass in plywood sides and put the new bottom right at the present drain hole. I have 100' of new 5/16" chain, do I leave that on the new locker bottom? Or do I add a hawse pipe and put it on the keel? I hope you will use this forum to post your ideas and progress Scott. And I am sure you know how Gene did it(Related Link).
Ed, I went ahead and cut the beast out
I followed previous examples and left the aft wall ( w/the chain plate ) intact. Afer removing the forward cupboard and partition, I slacked the stay and then cut down the sides and across the bottom of the anchor locker well. I did this from the inside of the boat. Next, I fitted the backing/replacement plywood and epoxied it to the back of the original locker fiberglass. I put in two temporary bolts to "suck" the plywood to the fiberlass while the glue set. The next day I cut out the old locker 2inches below the hatch cover seat. I removed the "bitter end" U bolt from the bottom of the original locker pan and then tossed the remainder. As for the location of the new floor of the locker, I wanted to go as low or deep as possible and still leave a few inches between the bottom of the new locker and the level of the berth platform, in order to allow drainage of the locker with a through hull. Also, I didn't want the locker to be so deep that the floor of the locker ended up being so narrow it was a problem to stand in. I selected a depth of 24 inches for the top of the locker floor, which was about 2-3 inches below the existing locker drain through hull, and the aft end of the locker floor ended up being 2 feet wide. The old through hull was removed and glassed over and a new through hull was placed approx 4 inches forward and 6 inches lower. The primary motivation for the project was to create a water barrier to the berth and enlarge the locker enough to perhaps store an extra propane tank etc. The boat is new to me and when I finally took a look in the lockers below the V beath, the forward one had about 3 gallons of water in it, that had come from the anchor roller plate bolts or from the manual anchor winch mount, I assume. I will get back to you on the weight issue with respect to your anchor chain ( I have 60 ft, with the rest rode) and my thoughts on whether to go lower with a hawser (sp?). I have a bunch of pics, but I don't know how to reduce them to the maxfile size, so I will talk to my 13 year old son on that issue. He and his brother wanted a ski boat, or at least a sail boat that they could watch videos on and plug in their guitar amplifiers to. But I digress. Look for the pics, etc in a week.
I followed previous examples and left the aft wall ( w/the chain plate ) intact. Afer removing the forward cupboard and partition, I slacked the stay and then cut down the sides and across the bottom of the anchor locker well. I did this from the inside of the boat. Next, I fitted the backing/replacement plywood and epoxied it to the back of the original locker fiberglass. I put in two temporary bolts to "suck" the plywood to the fiberlass while the glue set. The next day I cut out the old locker 2inches below the hatch cover seat. I removed the "bitter end" U bolt from the bottom of the original locker pan and then tossed the remainder. As for the location of the new floor of the locker, I wanted to go as low or deep as possible and still leave a few inches between the bottom of the new locker and the level of the berth platform, in order to allow drainage of the locker with a through hull. Also, I didn't want the locker to be so deep that the floor of the locker ended up being so narrow it was a problem to stand in. I selected a depth of 24 inches for the top of the locker floor, which was about 2-3 inches below the existing locker drain through hull, and the aft end of the locker floor ended up being 2 feet wide. The old through hull was removed and glassed over and a new through hull was placed approx 4 inches forward and 6 inches lower. The primary motivation for the project was to create a water barrier to the berth and enlarge the locker enough to perhaps store an extra propane tank etc. The boat is new to me and when I finally took a look in the lockers below the V beath, the forward one had about 3 gallons of water in it, that had come from the anchor roller plate bolts or from the manual anchor winch mount, I assume. I will get back to you on the weight issue with respect to your anchor chain ( I have 60 ft, with the rest rode) and my thoughts on whether to go lower with a hawser (sp?). I have a bunch of pics, but I don't know how to reduce them to the maxfile size, so I will talk to my 13 year old son on that issue. He and his brother wanted a ski boat, or at least a sail boat that they could watch videos on and plug in their guitar amplifiers to. But I digress. Look for the pics, etc in a week.
Too late. . .
to bother with option #2 I guess.
Right after my first post another friend of this forum, Tom Hadoulias, called. He tells me that the bolts are accessible without cutting out the locker. Of course you have to first remove the v-berth cabinets and that forward partition. I was leaning exactly in your direction but Tom says my S-L windlass will fit in the current locker. With a glassed in piece of PVC I can direct the chain down to the bottom and not cut out anything. Still have room in the current locker for the lunch hook. If I go this way I will probably still do a false floor for the chain. I have even considered a watertight bulkhead from the bottom to several inches higher than the waterline. Decisions, decisions. I just want to go sailing!!
to bother with option #2 I guess.
Right after my first post another friend of this forum, Tom Hadoulias, called. He tells me that the bolts are accessible without cutting out the locker. Of course you have to first remove the v-berth cabinets and that forward partition. I was leaning exactly in your direction but Tom says my S-L windlass will fit in the current locker. With a glassed in piece of PVC I can direct the chain down to the bottom and not cut out anything. Still have room in the current locker for the lunch hook. If I go this way I will probably still do a false floor for the chain. I have even considered a watertight bulkhead from the bottom to several inches higher than the waterline. Decisions, decisions. I just want to go sailing!!Ed, I will try to send one photo
showing the original locker from the v-berth perspective, with the cabinet/partition removed. Just curious, but are you intending to locate the chain locker floor at the level of the berth platform, or below. All my rainwater ( home port Seattle) ended up nicely stored in the forward compartment/locker under the berth, which is sealed off from the larger/aft storage compartment. So the forward compartment, under the berth and under the original anchor locker, would be suitable for chain storage. One nice aspect of this locker project, is that when your spouse calls the boat and tells you its time for a sail and she is bringing lunch, you can pretty much drop your tools and enjoy the afternoon.
showing the original locker from the v-berth perspective, with the cabinet/partition removed. Just curious, but are you intending to locate the chain locker floor at the level of the berth platform, or below. All my rainwater ( home port Seattle) ended up nicely stored in the forward compartment/locker under the berth, which is sealed off from the larger/aft storage compartment. So the forward compartment, under the berth and under the original anchor locker, would be suitable for chain storage. One nice aspect of this locker project, is that when your spouse calls the boat and tells you its time for a sail and she is bringing lunch, you can pretty much drop your tools and enjoy the afternoon.
Scott.....
Just a note, but I think you might think about cutting limber holes at the bottoms of all the lockers in the forepeak; they will stay dry no matter whether you have a bad rainstorm or green water over the bow. Good luck with your project!
Just a note, but I think you might think about cutting limber holes at the bottoms of all the lockers in the forepeak; they will stay dry no matter whether you have a bad rainstorm or green water over the bow. Good luck with your project!
I'm to stiff to cut limber holes but
I did install a drain in the bottom of the new (and we hope )improved locker, which required lowering ( drilling a hole in an otherwise good hull) the locker drain through hull. I am attaching ( speculative) a photo showing the space waster locker that was cut out.
I did install a drain in the bottom of the new (and we hope )improved locker, which required lowering ( drilling a hole in an otherwise good hull) the locker drain through hull. I am attaching ( speculative) a photo showing the space waster locker that was cut out.
Trouble visualizing.
As many times as I have been in there I cannot follow this discussion. There are two locker covers in the v-berth(not counting the two on the wings). My holding tank and four transducers are in the big one. The locker forward of the big one is what I think we call the chain locker. I have my Nexus fluxgate mounted on the aft bulkhead of that. Is that locker open all the way to the bow? Somehow I thought there was a bulkhead on the forward end of that. Those two lockers stay perfectly dry on my boat. Except for putting the rode down there where is your water coming from? I guess I will not render a guess of how I will do this until I get that cabinetry out of there.
As many times as I have been in there I cannot follow this discussion. There are two locker covers in the v-berth(not counting the two on the wings). My holding tank and four transducers are in the big one. The locker forward of the big one is what I think we call the chain locker. I have my Nexus fluxgate mounted on the aft bulkhead of that. Is that locker open all the way to the bow? Somehow I thought there was a bulkhead on the forward end of that. Those two lockers stay perfectly dry on my boat. Except for putting the rode down there where is your water coming from? I guess I will not render a guess of how I will do this until I get that cabinetry out of there.
Hey, another milestone
in my computer skills. So from the previous post you can see the locker with the interior woodwork removed. The gray squares on the hull sides are carpet where the cabinets were located. The rag under the locker is sitting on the most forward part of the top of the forward berth locker. The hanging locker pan does not extend into the bow, but ends approx a foot aft of the bow. When water would come in through the deck anchor roller plate/winch area,it apparently would drip down the hull and end up either at the v-berth platform and then into the cushon. Or, what the previ.vous owner did, was divert the water into the v-berth forward centerline locker by drilling a hole where the berth platform joins the hull at the most forward point. This berth locker ( on my '85) does not have a forward partition, you can see the hull sides coming together in the front of the locker. If sucessful, I have attached a photo showing the back/aft side of the new deck anchor locker. This might better show that the berth platform extends to the bow/forepeak and can catch water dripping from the bow roller fitting.
in my computer skills. So from the previous post you can see the locker with the interior woodwork removed. The gray squares on the hull sides are carpet where the cabinets were located. The rag under the locker is sitting on the most forward part of the top of the forward berth locker. The hanging locker pan does not extend into the bow, but ends approx a foot aft of the bow. When water would come in through the deck anchor roller plate/winch area,it apparently would drip down the hull and end up either at the v-berth platform and then into the cushon. Or, what the previ.vous owner did, was divert the water into the v-berth forward centerline locker by drilling a hole where the berth platform joins the hull at the most forward point. This berth locker ( on my '85) does not have a forward partition, you can see the hull sides coming together in the front of the locker. If sucessful, I have attached a photo showing the back/aft side of the new deck anchor locker. This might better show that the berth platform extends to the bow/forepeak and can catch water dripping from the bow roller fitting.
Attachments
- Status