DOH! Stripped Bleeder Screw on Volvo 2002 Diesel

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Rob R

Well, I must have stripped the bleed screw the last time I tightened it. This time, on removal, a small circle of metal came out with the screw. When I tried to re-tighten the screw it was pretty plain to see that it was stripped. I was able to re-start the engine, but fuel now leaks out of the bleed screw - so it's basically finished. The Bleed screw is on top of a Fuel Filter housing at the front of my 2 cylinder Volvo diesel engine. The housing is the standard type - bolted to the engine head with a vertical cylinder that that filter screws on to. The screw itself appears to be sturdy steel - probably stainless or similar hardness. It appears to be a good bit harder than the alloy that the filter housing is made of. I thought about replacing the filter housing, but it looks like a rather involved process. What do you recommend? Re-tap? If I did that, I could get a new screw and modify it with a vertical slit (which would allow it to bleed fuel). I have never tapped a hole before - just wondering if re-tapping would allow a fit tight enough to keep fuel from spurting out when priming and bleeding. Anyone else been in this position? Or a similar position where you needed to retap a hole and put a screw of a larger size into it (where pressure is involved)? Thanks for the help. I am planning to take her upriver this weekend on a 6 hour jaunt - but she's not going anywhere if I don't get her fixed :( Rob
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Contact Dick Vosbury at

Vosbury marine on the Boatdiesel forum.
 
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Nice N Easy

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I see no reason why you couldn't tap it out to a bigger size. Should work nicely. I have always been afraid of doing just that, and what I have done is to add an O ring under the bolt. Mine had the metal sealing ring origionally, which was good for about two times. With the O ring you don't have to tighten them very tight to seal good. You can tap it out, and then go to an auto supply and get you a couple of O rings. Works for me. Just be careful about getting any small bits of metal in the filter.
 
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Pat McCartin

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Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
Common problem

This is a common problem with Yanmar owners and 2000 series Volvos. The screw is M6 x 1.0 thread. Turn off your fuel at the tank, remove the filter and retap. You can either gat a regulat steel screw at the hardware store and cut a slit in it with a dremel or order the $10.00 screw from Volvo. Either way make sure the crush washers sre in good shape and don't over torque it. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
 
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Rob R

Thanks Guys...

for the quick responses. Looks like I know what my plan of action is. I'll have to buy a tap and die set. Seeing as I haven't used one of these, can I retap the hole to the same size using a helicoil? Or do I need to go one size bigger on the screw? Thanks in advance! Rob
 
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Pat McCartin

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Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
mabey....

You might be able to retap to the original size. I'd avoid a helicoil at all cost. You could also consider retaping to the next larger fractional size which would be 1/4" Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
 
chuckwayne

chuckwayne

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Mar 20, 2004
1,744
Hunter 356 and 216 Portland, ME
helicoil issue?

Hi Pat, I'm curious-what would be the problem with a helicoil! I've used them for years, especially in hi-pressure spark plug holes in air-cooled engines- I would think they would be strong and seal well
 
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Pat McCartin

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Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
Chuck,

In an air cooled head they work fine. I've done it atleast a dozen times on type 1 & 2's, I prefer a timesert instead of a helicoil. In the fuel system I can see it as a posible avenue for another air leak, not proven just paranoia. All of these filter housings have enought meat to retap a screw in there and seal it with a crush washer. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
 
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Rob R

FIXED!!!

Couldn't have done it without you guys - thanks again for the valuable advice. I bought a tap at Home Depot for 1/4 inch holes. It came with a drill bit that was 13/64 or something like that - obviously smaller than the tap. However, the bit was small enough that it was not biting into the metal, so I just wobbled it gently to smooth out the existing stripped threads. Re-tapping was easy - the new tap was sharp and cut through the alloy like butter. I did notice that Volvo built up that filter housing around the bleed screw heavily - it looks like it could take about 3 or more taps of larger diameter. I then inserted the new screw with a fat rubber washer I picked up from the plumbing dept. Worked like a champ - however, I still need to replace the current screw with a stainless model and cut the bleed channel into it with a dremel. Overall - it got me out this weekend and upriver 6 hours to rendezvous with my buddies. Good time overall, with the exception of the ice on the deck Sunday morning and the freezing temps all weekend. Rob
 
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Pat McCartin

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Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
Rob,

Don't spend the extra time and moeny on stainless. nothing else on the engine is. For the bleed slot, that's easy. Take the screw out and touch it to the side of a grinding wheel to flaten it. The new replacement from Volvo has this done on two sides and isn't stainless. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
 
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Rob R

You know Pat....

That makes perfect sense. I guess that alloy is probably less nobel than the screw itself. I'll just hit it with the grinder and let it rip. I really appreciate the advice on this again. While we're talkin diesels, the Volvo stumbled a few times on the way home. She'd be running along at 80 percent throttle, then drop down to around 1100 RPM or so, then come up, then drop down again. She did this about 6 times altogether, recovering each time without shutting down. She rarely ran slow for more than 2 minutes. Average time was probably about 45 seconds, then she'd recover. I am attributing this to fuel. Her fuel is probably about 6 months old. I have been using StarTron stabilizer (as she had an algae problem back in May) ever since I tore her fuel system apart to clean out all the crud. A week ago I changed both the primary and the secondary filter (hence the original bleed screw problem). I'm now wondering whether I have a fuel problem, or if I just didn't torque down the bleed screw enough out of over-caution. Do you think a slight air leak could cause the stumbling I was experiencing? On another front, we have recently experienced freezing weather, so condensation would be highly likely (although the fuel tank is always at 3/4 tank or higher). Whaddya think? Rob
 
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Pat McCartin

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Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
most likely....

If the events occured back to back and fairly soon after getting things running it was a small air bouble that worked it's way out. Pat
 
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Rob R

It was about 2-3 hours after fixing...

the bleed screw and changing both filters. The episodes were spaced out over a couple hours of running time. She ran fine for the last hour of the 8-10 hour round trip. Confusing? Head Scratcher? Rob
 
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Rob R

maybe an air leak...

I'm gonna try tightening the bleed screw a little. I'm wondering if just a tiny bit of air is getting in either at the bleed screw or further back down the fuel line by the primary filter. I'll post back with what I find! Rob
 
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