Does my A/C discharge thru hull pass ABYC H-27?

[ColleenIII]

Should I change this out for a bronze thru hull with a In Line Ball Valve (probably will not opt for a Flanged Sea Valve here) or leave it be?

The attached pictures of my 2001 Beneteau 331 are of the discharge side of my air conditioning. You will note that the outside hull picture shows the exit position just at the top of the bottom paint. The static water line is about 1-2" below that position. Very low IMO.

The interior pictures show a simple plastic or nylon thru hull. I am pretty sure it is not marelon because the color is different. This is how I purchased the boat. I think the A/C was a dealer install as most are. Not sure the factory ever does these.

Advice? Does anyone out there have the same set up?
I looked at other 331s and they seem to have a much higher exit point.
Changing it could mean skipping my place in line to get splashed this week... not to mention the cost which I would estimate at $300+.

I am concerned about this A/C discharge thru hull. It does not look well installed to me even though it probably would pass the ABYC H-27 thru hull recommendation specs on a technicality (27.5.1 exception #2) but I am not a marne surveyor or marine lawyer. I try to operate on what little common sense I was given.

 

[Beneteau 321]

$300 sounds steep --looks like easy acess shouldn't take more than an hour to replace even if Murphy helps

 

[bigmc83]

Upon touring the Beneteau factory, they do install them (not sure about a 10 year old model). Our newer B37 also has the A/C fitting about 6" above the waterline, and thats how most appear to be when looking around the marina.

 

[Gunni]

Yes it is too low, and yes it was almost certainly installed by the dealer at commissioning. Otherwise that is a very typical installation assembly. Simply changing it out for a proper bronze thru-hull and sea-cock doesn't address the notion that you may want to leave it open while the boat remains unattended, keeping the boat climate conditioned. If she was mine, I would want it raised, and I would gamble that I could keep the boat floating until next winter's haul, when I would remove it, install it higher and fill/fair the old hole. If I knew who did the install, I would collar them and have a talk.

 

[Ron20324]

Maybe it had to be that low to make it drain properly?

 

[ColleenIII]

Thanks for the replies.
I opted to replace this thru hull and miss my splash date.

Now I have a nice new shiny bronze thru hull, a waiting list position, and a nice bill that ended up being less than the $300 I mentioned. But I can sleep at night now knowing the boat will probably not sink due to that thru hull. I only discovered this situation this year. I wonder why it was not covered in the purchase survey?

Unfortunately, moving it higher proved not to be an option as the mechanic cautioned me that the water back flow could then pose a problem as the hose needs to rise above the location of the thru hull and there was no more room. I do not use it all that much and only when I am at the boat so I will keep it closed most of the time. I am not a fan of leaving thru hulls open when leaving the boat all week.

I will make a sign to hang on the A/C controls to remind me it is closed just like I do with the engine intake. Also, a good checklist item to add. BTW, do any of you use a checklist like you do with airplanes?

 

[Gunni]

I will make a sign to hang on the A/C controls to remind me it is closed just like I do with the engine intake. Also, a good checklist item to add. BTW, do any of you use a checklist like you do with airplanes?

Don't use a formal checklist, but should. However the 4 hour job pulling apart my generator raw-water circuit, and rodding impeller vanes out of the heat exchanger has pretty much seared the start-up sequence into my brain! Don't want that experience again. I leave the ignition keys draped over the engine raw water thru hull. That also reminds me to check the engine systems, oil, coolant, belts, fuel, etc.

A/C raw water pumps are typically mag-drive units and are pretty tough. They often air lock after a day of rambunctious sailing, and require a bleed. I assume you have an installed bleeder valve.

 

[Ron20324]

.... I wonder why it was not covered in the purchase survey?

Maybe it was not noted by the professional surveyor because it is not a problem. It's only that you don't like it that makes you want to change it.

 

[ColleenIII]

Yep, bleeder valve came with the boat. Still needs coaxing to get it sucking right after a haul out. Probably because I let air into the system when I winterized it.

And yep, it is probably over-engineering to put a thru hull and sea cock in this position but I like it.

Finally, my CFI drilled into me the use of checklists are to double check you remembered a particular sequence correctly and so you can tell the NTSB you did so if you ever had a mishap. You should already know and perform the basic steps as a flow sequence. Thereafter, you are just making sure you did everything you should.

BTW, long ago I did pass my check ride and I got pilot certificate to show for it. Private Pilot - Single Engine Land....ha, that's about as far as I will ever get in aviation considering I am self-funded. But, I wish the USCG Captain's License process was so straight forward.

 

[Captn TJ]

Having a pilots lic and just having got my USCG OUPV lic I think the requirements are looser for the latter.

You fill out the 'log book' (sea service) on your own, and no 'check ride'. Both require passing a test, a physical, passage of money and the latest twist a TWIC.