I have a new boat which is documented. The application for documentation was filed and four months later we got the certificate with the number. I already have the name and hailing port. Now I need to put the number on the Hull. The coast guard indicated that I could put 3" numbers on the hull inside a locker and then cover with fiberglass material. I have never done fiberglass. I understand that I should attach a sheet of the fabric over the numbers and then apply a clear resin. The clear resin is where I am stuck. What do I buy in order to do this.? Please give me direction.
Documentation
- Thread starter JohnEh
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B
Barry
Mounting Numbers
John, I am going through the exact same process now. We bought our H33 in March and just got the documentation certificate last week. Here is what I plan to do: 1)Buy black vinyl numbers and a small amount of West Systems epoxy from West Marine. 2)Mount numbers inside port cockpit locker on hull, not hatch. 3)Mix epoxy with its hardener and paint over the area using a foam brush. You should not need fiberglass matt for this purpose. Open to comments if someone else knows different. Barry S/V Bear Necessity H33 #128
John, I am going through the exact same process now. We bought our H33 in March and just got the documentation certificate last week. Here is what I plan to do: 1)Buy black vinyl numbers and a small amount of West Systems epoxy from West Marine. 2)Mount numbers inside port cockpit locker on hull, not hatch. 3)Mix epoxy with its hardener and paint over the area using a foam brush. You should not need fiberglass matt for this purpose. Open to comments if someone else knows different. Barry S/V Bear Necessity H33 #128
what we did.
John, we have a 2002 386 and did the same thing Barry did. We put the numbers on the hull behind the house batery in the setee locker. Worked fine for me as there was room to work and does meet the requirements.
John, we have a 2002 386 and did the same thing Barry did. We put the numbers on the hull behind the house batery in the setee locker. Worked fine for me as there was room to work and does meet the requirements.
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Gregg
Same for me too
West Marine sells the West Systems epoxy repair kit in a package of 5 or 6 double packets of 105/205 for about 15 bucks. Stick on your numbers, mask the area with tape for a nice even application. Brush on a light coat of the epoxy mix. Don't brush it on too thick or it will heat up, and possibly melt the vinyl letters. The stuff can get hot. One coat should do it - add a second if you want. No fiberglass needed. Peel off the masking tape when the epoxy dries. You will have more than you need with one double packet.
West Marine sells the West Systems epoxy repair kit in a package of 5 or 6 double packets of 105/205 for about 15 bucks. Stick on your numbers, mask the area with tape for a nice even application. Brush on a light coat of the epoxy mix. Don't brush it on too thick or it will heat up, and possibly melt the vinyl letters. The stuff can get hot. One coat should do it - add a second if you want. No fiberglass needed. Peel off the masking tape when the epoxy dries. You will have more than you need with one double packet.
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Steve D
DOC.#
What we did is have a sign guy make a reverse stencil. You peel off the backing and it stick to the surface. Then you just paint on the number with some type of paint. I applied two coats. Then you remove the stencil and you are done. The nice thing here is that all the number are already straight and evenly spaced. I doubt that they anyone will be able to remove these number without leaving a trace.
What we did is have a sign guy make a reverse stencil. You peel off the backing and it stick to the surface. Then you just paint on the number with some type of paint. I applied two coats. Then you remove the stencil and you are done. The nice thing here is that all the number are already straight and evenly spaced. I doubt that they anyone will be able to remove these number without leaving a trace.
B
Barry
Numbers Mounted
Well, last weekend I followed through and mounted the documentation numbers. Thanks Gregg for the additional encouragement that I was on the right track. Photo shows the port cockpit locker after 6 hours of curing. I did remove the blue painter's tape soon after brushing on the epoxy. I was afraid of it becoming a permanent addition to the boat when the epoxy dried. Barry S/V Bear Necessity
Well, last weekend I followed through and mounted the documentation numbers. Thanks Gregg for the additional encouragement that I was on the right track. Photo shows the port cockpit locker after 6 hours of curing. I did remove the blue painter's tape soon after brushing on the epoxy. I was afraid of it becoming a permanent addition to the boat when the epoxy dried. Barry S/V Bear Necessity
Posting numbers
My understanding is that the CG only requires the numbers be permanently affixed. Therefore, I just had the numbers routered into a piece of teak and then attached the teak plate to the boat behind the companionway stairs with 5200. For backup, had vinyl numbers attached to inside of cockpit lazarette.
My understanding is that the CG only requires the numbers be permanently affixed. Therefore, I just had the numbers routered into a piece of teak and then attached the teak plate to the boat behind the companionway stairs with 5200. For backup, had vinyl numbers attached to inside of cockpit lazarette.
C.G. Documentation Numbers
I just took a soldering iron and melted-in the doc numbers in the keelilge area and then painted he numbers with black paint. Coast Guard courtesy safty inspection said that was fine. Also, the hailing port letters are supposed to be 4" block letters. Standard 3" boat numbering letters and numbers are fine too. I think the written rule is 4" high, but again,the C.G. not too concerned about an inch smaller on pleasure boats. They have more important things to think about than whether the letters are 3 or 4 inches high.
I just took a soldering iron and melted-in the doc numbers in the keelilge area and then painted he numbers with black paint. Coast Guard courtesy safty inspection said that was fine. Also, the hailing port letters are supposed to be 4" block letters. Standard 3" boat numbering letters and numbers are fine too. I think the written rule is 4" high, but again,the C.G. not too concerned about an inch smaller on pleasure boats. They have more important things to think about than whether the letters are 3 or 4 inches high.
Documentation completed
I sent an email to the Coast Guard describing what I planned to do. The responded that this would be fine, contrary to the opinions of many at West Marine. I tried to get the necessary materials at West Marine, but when Lee Creekmore(certified marine surveyor, sailboat designer and builder and service man for my Hunter dealer) arrived to do some warranty work, he said,"Lets go to West Marine and get the correct materials." He selected a small repair kit with resin, catalyst and fiberglass, along with an inexpensive brush. I already had the 3" black numbers and "NO". Lee put the numbers right on the hull inside the locker and the cut a piece of fiberglass to fit over the numbers, then mixed the resin with the catalyst and the brushed the resin over the fiberglass which was over the numbers. We left the locker open for several hours and noted the smell for a while. Our numbers are clearly ledgible and look like the picture from Barry. The whole operation took about 10 minutes.
I sent an email to the Coast Guard describing what I planned to do. The responded that this would be fine, contrary to the opinions of many at West Marine. I tried to get the necessary materials at West Marine, but when Lee Creekmore(certified marine surveyor, sailboat designer and builder and service man for my Hunter dealer) arrived to do some warranty work, he said,"Lets go to West Marine and get the correct materials." He selected a small repair kit with resin, catalyst and fiberglass, along with an inexpensive brush. I already had the 3" black numbers and "NO". Lee put the numbers right on the hull inside the locker and the cut a piece of fiberglass to fit over the numbers, then mixed the resin with the catalyst and the brushed the resin over the fiberglass which was over the numbers. We left the locker open for several hours and noted the smell for a while. Our numbers are clearly ledgible and look like the picture from Barry. The whole operation took about 10 minutes.
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