My speed sensor is all covered with marine growth, and no longer works. I pulled it out so I can soak it in vinegar to "eat" off all the critters. 1. What do you do to keep your paddle wheel free of critters? 2. Do you remove the speed and depth sensors every time you get back in to dock? Thanks in advance for the advise.
Do you remove your speed sensor
- Thread starter Doghouse
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What other choice is there?
Being in fresh water, we don't have the same issue ... but I remove the speed and depth transducers every fall before pulling the boat. All things considered, it isn't much trouble. So why not remove it frequently enough to clean it before the build-up gets too bad. It shouldn't be much of a nuisance if you remove it periodically.
Being in fresh water, we don't have the same issue ... but I remove the speed and depth transducers every fall before pulling the boat. All things considered, it isn't much trouble. So why not remove it frequently enough to clean it before the build-up gets too bad. It shouldn't be much of a nuisance if you remove it periodically.
I use
Plain old zinc oxide ointment on the paddle wheel of my knotmeter. This seems to last a few months before the wheel clogs up. Unfornately, the location of my paddlewheel in my Hunter 28.5 makes removing, cleaning, and replacing an arduous task. As a result, whne the wheel fouls up I switch to the GPS for speed info. I have thought about moving the paddlewheel thru-hull to a more accessible location, but it just isn't worth putting another hole in the hull....
Plain old zinc oxide ointment on the paddle wheel of my knotmeter. This seems to last a few months before the wheel clogs up. Unfornately, the location of my paddlewheel in my Hunter 28.5 makes removing, cleaning, and replacing an arduous task. As a result, whne the wheel fouls up I switch to the GPS for speed info. I have thought about moving the paddlewheel thru-hull to a more accessible location, but it just isn't worth putting another hole in the hull....
Pull mine every time
On the H356 it is very easy to remove/install the transducer. I pull mine when laying up the boat for the week - keeps it clean. I have a toothbrush and a small cleaning pick stored next to the thruhull for cleaning the paddle wheel if I forget and it gets covered. Last year was a bitch, growth was very bad. Don't know why. Jim S/V Java
On the H356 it is very easy to remove/install the transducer. I pull mine when laying up the boat for the week - keeps it clean. I have a toothbrush and a small cleaning pick stored next to the thruhull for cleaning the paddle wheel if I forget and it gets covered. Last year was a bitch, growth was very bad. Don't know why. Jim S/V Java
I'm concerned...
That constantly removing and refitting will eventually weaken the hull at that location. Yeah, probably an unfounded fear, but one none the less. I need to coat my wheel with something. I'll try the zinc oxide ointment next time I'm down at the boat.
That constantly removing and refitting will eventually weaken the hull at that location. Yeah, probably an unfounded fear, but one none the less. I need to coat my wheel with something. I'll try the zinc oxide ointment next time I'm down at the boat.
For Rick
Most knotmeter makers recommend NOT painting the paddlewheel with bottom or so-called "transducer" paints. I believe the latter stuff is mostly meant for depth sounder transducers, not paddlewheels. If you think about it, any copper based paint is going to be heavy and could impact knotmeter performance. But more importantly, what do you do if you use it year after year to avoid paint build up? It would be impossible to remove the old dead paint in order to repaint.
Most knotmeter makers recommend NOT painting the paddlewheel with bottom or so-called "transducer" paints. I believe the latter stuff is mostly meant for depth sounder transducers, not paddlewheels. If you think about it, any copper based paint is going to be heavy and could impact knotmeter performance. But more importantly, what do you do if you use it year after year to avoid paint build up? It would be impossible to remove the old dead paint in order to repaint.
Why not just buy a backup paddle wheel
and change it out regularly? If you are concerned about performance, then having a clean one to slip in when you remove the one that gets crud on it gives you time to clean the dirty one. Most transducers have slip-in plugs so you can make the swap with the boat in the water. We replaced our paddlewheeel assembly this year because we hit a log last winter and whacked the old one. Not a big deal even if it is sometimes difficult to access.
and change it out regularly? If you are concerned about performance, then having a clean one to slip in when you remove the one that gets crud on it gives you time to clean the dirty one. Most transducers have slip-in plugs so you can make the swap with the boat in the water. We replaced our paddlewheeel assembly this year because we hit a log last winter and whacked the old one. Not a big deal even if it is sometimes difficult to access.
Let the diver do it.
I cleaned my own race boat bottom for years in Dana Point, and cleaned the impeller at the same time. Now in San Pedro, with the water polluted as it is, I have a diver clean the bottom, and they also clean the speedo impeller too. No problems.
I cleaned my own race boat bottom for years in Dana Point, and cleaned the impeller at the same time. Now in San Pedro, with the water polluted as it is, I have a diver clean the bottom, and they also clean the speedo impeller too. No problems.
For Pete...
... there is a good reason to not recommend paint for paddle wheels. If you put it on too thick and it may 'glue' the padddle wheel to the housing. I did that once and had to remove it and scrape the area with a razor. Having said that, I have used the stuff for about 15 years as have many of my friends. The stuff isn't very thick. and there is little left on it after you need to recoat. All I do then is to take a knife and scrape it to remove any residual build up, then re-coat. As to performance, it must certainly affect the rotation to some degree, but who cares? Your knot meter is most valuable as a relative speed indicator anyway. Anyhow, this solution works for me. Thanks for asking. Rick D.
... there is a good reason to not recommend paint for paddle wheels. If you put it on too thick and it may 'glue' the padddle wheel to the housing. I did that once and had to remove it and scrape the area with a razor. Having said that, I have used the stuff for about 15 years as have many of my friends. The stuff isn't very thick. and there is little left on it after you need to recoat. All I do then is to take a knife and scrape it to remove any residual build up, then re-coat. As to performance, it must certainly affect the rotation to some degree, but who cares? Your knot meter is most valuable as a relative speed indicator anyway. Anyhow, this solution works for me. Thanks for asking. Rick D.
Where does one buy a backup paddlewheel?
Three years ago I purchased one using the internet to replace one with a broken paddlewheel. I normally do not use it and rely on GPS for speed. However, I would like to buy a spare, but for the life of me I cannot remember where I purchased the first replacement. At the time, Raymarine was no help
Three years ago I purchased one using the internet to replace one with a broken paddlewheel. I normally do not use it and rely on GPS for speed. However, I would like to buy a spare, but for the life of me I cannot remember where I purchased the first replacement. At the time, Raymarine was no help
DMI?
Stu, I do not understand your post. Ok, thanks everyone for the information. I now have a new item on my checklist. Insert and remove. Now I just have to spend a little time cleaning...
Stu, I do not understand your post. Ok, thanks everyone for the information. I now have a new item on my checklist. Insert and remove. Now I just have to spend a little time cleaning...
I'm w/ Rick I apply water based transducer paint
Been doing it for over 15 years and have not had a problem. Yes you can't put it on too thick, but with a carefull touch with the little brush (link below for product) its not that hard. Seems to work for me through most the season. I am not concerned with what Pete has said, it seems to not build up very much. In fact it seems to wear off and after a while I might need to re apply. Anyway its easy to scrape off if I need to. http://www.mdramazon.com/41.htm It is specifically made for "Marine Plastics" like transducers. From what I understand the concern from Transducer manufactuers are not really the heavy application of bottom paint, but rather the reason you don't want to put traditional (petroleum ?) based anti-fouling bottom paints on the transducers is the concern that it with harm the plastic. Question for Stu. How would it work if you have an extra transducer plug to slip in and remove the one that gets crud on it ? How would you wire that ? You'd have to have a special wiring plug for the wires that go to your display and plug in and out. It seems to me like it would be much easier to just take 5 minutes and clean the one you have.
Been doing it for over 15 years and have not had a problem. Yes you can't put it on too thick, but with a carefull touch with the little brush (link below for product) its not that hard. Seems to work for me through most the season. I am not concerned with what Pete has said, it seems to not build up very much. In fact it seems to wear off and after a while I might need to re apply. Anyway its easy to scrape off if I need to. http://www.mdramazon.com/41.htm It is specifically made for "Marine Plastics" like transducers. From what I understand the concern from Transducer manufactuers are not really the heavy application of bottom paint, but rather the reason you don't want to put traditional (petroleum ?) based anti-fouling bottom paints on the transducers is the concern that it with harm the plastic. Question for Stu. How would it work if you have an extra transducer plug to slip in and remove the one that gets crud on it ? How would you wire that ? You'd have to have a special wiring plug for the wires that go to your display and plug in and out. It seems to me like it would be much easier to just take 5 minutes and clean the one you have.
DMI - Data Marine Instruments
That's what I have for depth and speed. Tom, I think Stu was referring to the plug that you can buy which fills the hole while you leave the transducer out or clean it. I agree, fishing the cable through makes a replacement a nuisance (unless there is a convenient way to plug the wire). I use a plug and the old depth 'ducer (I cut the wire off) when I pull mine for whatever reason. It is a little disconcerting how easily they slip in the fitting, but the pin that secures it is going to keep the plugs from going anywhere. Brian, there should be no fear of the hull weakening, the collar is plenty secure. That's a good note for commissioning a new boat! Make sure the transucers are easily accessible! Mine are easy to get too. It would be a whole 'nother issue if they weren't! I also agree with having a paddlewheel speed gauge for quick, easy, instantaneous reference rather than a GPS! BTW, I was thinking about getting a DMI wind instrument (since the one I have is broke) but it appears that they are no longer selling any products, just servicing their old products. True?
That's what I have for depth and speed. Tom, I think Stu was referring to the plug that you can buy which fills the hole while you leave the transducer out or clean it. I agree, fishing the cable through makes a replacement a nuisance (unless there is a convenient way to plug the wire). I use a plug and the old depth 'ducer (I cut the wire off) when I pull mine for whatever reason. It is a little disconcerting how easily they slip in the fitting, but the pin that secures it is going to keep the plugs from going anywhere. Brian, there should be no fear of the hull weakening, the collar is plenty secure. That's a good note for commissioning a new boat! Make sure the transucers are easily accessible! Mine are easy to get too. It would be a whole 'nother issue if they weren't! I also agree with having a paddlewheel speed gauge for quick, easy, instantaneous reference rather than a GPS! BTW, I was thinking about getting a DMI wind instrument (since the one I have is broke) but it appears that they are no longer selling any products, just servicing their old products. True?
Also ...
The reason I had to replace both the speed and the depth transducers as soon as we bought the boat was apparently because they were covered in bottom paint from the PO. It was a little funny how the depth worked when we did our sea trial, and then stopped working as soon as we took posession! Replaced the transducers and they work perfectly!
The reason I had to replace both the speed and the depth transducers as soon as we bought the boat was apparently because they were covered in bottom paint from the PO. It was a little funny how the depth worked when we did our sea trial, and then stopped working as soon as we took posession! Replaced the transducers and they work perfectly!
Pull it!
I relocated my knot log from stbd side forward locker to centerline main cabin. I installed a 6" deck plate cover in the floor to give quick easy access. Each time I park the boat, I pull the log and put in the plug. The self sealing through hull keeps the water to a trickle. Takes a few seconds and NEVER needs cleaning. PS, the added plus of putting it center line, it reads the same on both tacks.
I relocated my knot log from stbd side forward locker to centerline main cabin. I installed a 6" deck plate cover in the floor to give quick easy access. Each time I park the boat, I pull the log and put in the plug. The self sealing through hull keeps the water to a trickle. Takes a few seconds and NEVER needs cleaning. PS, the added plus of putting it center line, it reads the same on both tacks.
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