I came upon a teak bright work product called "Signature Finish". If anyone has experience with this teak finish please let me know. Thanks in advance. Frank
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Been using it for 7 years.
The very BEST coating system Ive ever used; and, I 'was' a varnish-aholic. Signature Finish is the company that makes it. Honey Teak is the Brand Name of the product. Its very expensive but very long lasting so overall its probably the cheapest in time and $$$ ... you can buy 'just the amount you need' as they will 'custom pack' all the fluids needed. My present job is over 7 years old (on a Tayana 'teak farm') with only one minor repair in that time. Does require a quick scuff and overcoat with the 'clear' every year ... but I double coat it with clear every other year and powerbuff it every intervening year. The application learning curve is quick but you do need to apply the base coats THICK or it can lift after a few years. Application is VERY easy. Its a catalyzed system so you can keep laying on coats .... an entire application in one weekend if the atmospherics are OK ... or simply let it cure, then scuff with a scotchbrite pad to continue. Best weather to apply is cool to cold so it has time to 'flow'. Looks like a high quality oil-based varnish but LASTS much much much longer. Initially it looks like weak butterscotch but quickly fades in a week or two to a nice amber. Can be hand-rubbed with rottenstone/water and buffled like a top-quality varnish job --- the hand rubbing develops the 'irridescent' glowing patina of the wood cells. Some reports of it lasting more than 12 years ... but Ill have to let you know after another 5 on my boat. Others who use it may differ but I apply it VERY thick. Use on teak only, not for Iroko, mahogany, etc. www.signaturefinish.com
The very BEST coating system Ive ever used; and, I 'was' a varnish-aholic. Signature Finish is the company that makes it. Honey Teak is the Brand Name of the product. Its very expensive but very long lasting so overall its probably the cheapest in time and $$$ ... you can buy 'just the amount you need' as they will 'custom pack' all the fluids needed. My present job is over 7 years old (on a Tayana 'teak farm') with only one minor repair in that time. Does require a quick scuff and overcoat with the 'clear' every year ... but I double coat it with clear every other year and powerbuff it every intervening year. The application learning curve is quick but you do need to apply the base coats THICK or it can lift after a few years. Application is VERY easy. Its a catalyzed system so you can keep laying on coats .... an entire application in one weekend if the atmospherics are OK ... or simply let it cure, then scuff with a scotchbrite pad to continue. Best weather to apply is cool to cold so it has time to 'flow'. Looks like a high quality oil-based varnish but LASTS much much much longer. Initially it looks like weak butterscotch but quickly fades in a week or two to a nice amber. Can be hand-rubbed with rottenstone/water and buffled like a top-quality varnish job --- the hand rubbing develops the 'irridescent' glowing patina of the wood cells. Some reports of it lasting more than 12 years ... but Ill have to let you know after another 5 on my boat. Others who use it may differ but I apply it VERY thick. Use on teak only, not for Iroko, mahogany, etc. www.signaturefinish.com
Thanks Rich, but????
The "amber" color concerns me. If it is orange, that is not my "cup of tea" but, if it is dark or slightly amber, that is going to be OK. From what I have read and learned from Tom, the rep from Honey Teak, the initial sequence of application should last 24-36 months. Then, it may be necessary to follow up with a couple of "gloss" coats on a PRN basis. BUT Rich, nothing can surpass experience, and you certainly have that after 7 years of history with your "teak farm"! Ordered 75sf of fluid last week and will start the application process this coming week. As in all painting, preparation is 90-95% of the job; and as I say, "any monkey can slop paint"1vm6. Hope all well with you and your floating love. Frank and friends.
The "amber" color concerns me. If it is orange, that is not my "cup of tea" but, if it is dark or slightly amber, that is going to be OK. From what I have read and learned from Tom, the rep from Honey Teak, the initial sequence of application should last 24-36 months. Then, it may be necessary to follow up with a couple of "gloss" coats on a PRN basis. BUT Rich, nothing can surpass experience, and you certainly have that after 7 years of history with your "teak farm"! Ordered 75sf of fluid last week and will start the application process this coming week. As in all painting, preparation is 90-95% of the job; and as I say, "any monkey can slop paint"1vm6. Hope all well with you and your floating love. Frank and friends.
Good stuff
I used the Honey Teak when I refinished my hatch boards over the winter. It's a little intimidating at first, but after mixing up a few batches you quickly realize that it's really quite simple. More importantly, it seems to be an extremely durable finish and I'm confident that it's going to last as advertised. I like that you can keep applying new coats while it is still tacky and don't have to sand between coats. Small projects can be completed in one day with several coats of the Honey and several coats of the clear. I'm happy with the color, which I would describe as dark golden.
I used the Honey Teak when I refinished my hatch boards over the winter. It's a little intimidating at first, but after mixing up a few batches you quickly realize that it's really quite simple. More importantly, it seems to be an extremely durable finish and I'm confident that it's going to last as advertised. I like that you can keep applying new coats while it is still tacky and don't have to sand between coats. Small projects can be completed in one day with several coats of the Honey and several coats of the clear. I'm happy with the color, which I would describe as dark golden.
Definitely NOT orangey .....
When first applied it will look somewhat like translucent butterscotch ... and that will quickly fade in sunlight to an almost clear with a somewhat amber hue ... similar to tung oil based varnish. I prefer 'light' teak, so I usually bleach the teak well with oxalic acid and then rinse/scrub with LOTS of water to throroghly dilute any remaining oxalic. Dont forget to apply the base coats 'thick' for long life - "flow it on", dont thin it out with a brush (over-brushing), etc. Use a soft artist brush to lay down each coat. If not THICK there wont be much UV protection and will eventually 'lift'. If you apply thick, you also wont get any 'pin-holes' in the surface after 2+ years. Dont worry much about the 'prep' other than flat ... just flat-sand the wood down to 100 grit (for better 'tooth'/adhesion for the HT) as HT has great 'filling' capabilities. If you're a 'fanatic', apply additional clear coats, let cure a few weeks, then flat (wet) sand with 400-600-1300-2000 grit then powerbuff (slow speed with almost no pressure) using a 3M knobby foam pad and with 3M Finese-it then 3M perfect it ... for one of the most glossiest surfaces you've ever seen or imagined. Just be very careful not to 'burn' the surface when powerbuffing. Ive also arrived at the same gloss enhancing effect effect by hand rubbing with rottenstone and water ... just like you do with a mega-fine varnish job. The HT website has other methods to 'post-finish' after curing, etc. to arrive at a 'super-gloss' finish that will look like its 'inches thick'.
When first applied it will look somewhat like translucent butterscotch ... and that will quickly fade in sunlight to an almost clear with a somewhat amber hue ... similar to tung oil based varnish. I prefer 'light' teak, so I usually bleach the teak well with oxalic acid and then rinse/scrub with LOTS of water to throroghly dilute any remaining oxalic. Dont forget to apply the base coats 'thick' for long life - "flow it on", dont thin it out with a brush (over-brushing), etc. Use a soft artist brush to lay down each coat. If not THICK there wont be much UV protection and will eventually 'lift'. If you apply thick, you also wont get any 'pin-holes' in the surface after 2+ years. Dont worry much about the 'prep' other than flat ... just flat-sand the wood down to 100 grit (for better 'tooth'/adhesion for the HT) as HT has great 'filling' capabilities. If you're a 'fanatic', apply additional clear coats, let cure a few weeks, then flat (wet) sand with 400-600-1300-2000 grit then powerbuff (slow speed with almost no pressure) using a 3M knobby foam pad and with 3M Finese-it then 3M perfect it ... for one of the most glossiest surfaces you've ever seen or imagined. Just be very careful not to 'burn' the surface when powerbuffing. Ive also arrived at the same gloss enhancing effect effect by hand rubbing with rottenstone and water ... just like you do with a mega-fine varnish job. The HT website has other methods to 'post-finish' after curing, etc. to arrive at a 'super-gloss' finish that will look like its 'inches thick'.
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