Diesel Tank

Steve Dion · Apr 11, 2012

Jorge:

One option is to pump the fuel out of the tank and then remove the tank. It can be steam cleaned or power washed and then replace the tank. This also give you the option to do a good inspection.

Other options include fuel polishing, but that is expensive and sometimes does not really do the job.

Stephen Trapani · Apr 11, 2012

Jorge, In case you're wondering, the original tank will fit out through the cockpit locker if stripped down enough. Had it out and cleaned it with a hose, basically.

Sailorjack · Apr 11, 2012

Jorgefife

On my 37c I used hand pump like the ones used to change the engine oil and pumped the tank dry. I removed the fuel gauge to gain access. Fortunately there wasn't much diesel in the tank. If you can remove the tank from the boat it will make cleaning easier. I did not have the option so I cut access holes in the top of the tank. One hole for each section ( 2 baffles - 3 sections). I cleaned the sludge out of the tank and made covers for the holes I cut in the tank. It has been 9 years since I did this and no problems. Hope this helps.

Benny17441 · Apr 11, 2012

All good advices Jorge. I could not help thinking how all POs get the bad wrap about how poorly they maintained the boats. If this is an indication of a trend this may mean that the future owners of our boats are going to be getting cream-puffs. It's a nice thought but more than likely they will blame us for whatever goes wrong like we do our predecessors.

Stephen Trapani · Apr 12, 2012

jorgefife said:
Stephen,
You have the same boat as I: did you remove yours? Not too difficult?
I think I will do that, and inspect at the same time, as Steve Dion suggests

Yes, we pulled it out, cleaned it out and reinstalled it. A bit tight and you have to remove all the fittings, I think, or at least, some critical ones.

Stephen Trapani · Apr 12, 2012

Wow, Jorge. Not a one of those jobs have I done. Most of that stuff was in good shape, though mine cost me six times what yours costed you. I'm sure your boat will be a fine thing when it's done, much finer than mine. For my side though, I use mine a great deal and can't bear to stop using it to make it nicer. So far all my jobs have been to keep it running or floating (and there's been plenty of those!). This weekend we intend to go on a little jaunt 10 miles or so round trip, to downtown Olympia (Percival Landing) stay overnight, maybe a little poker game on board, then back Sunday. Woohoo! :dance:

SailH37 · Apr 12, 2012

I gotta chime in on this too.

After going thru three filters on the way up, we I had to be towed into St.Pete costing $1,000 bucks (thank goodness it wasn't my boat and thank goodness for SeaTow), Learning from his lesson, I felt around by pushing down on my tank and looking thru the fuel gauge, and then cut three access holes in the tank. GLAD I did, it was nasty with all sorts of stuff. I was able to clean every crack, then went shopping. I found some aluminum stock that I cut out for plates, then drilled and tapped a whole bunch of threads. I probably went over board with screws, but not by much. I used some fuel proof rubber from Goodyear and I can say that after 5 years, everything has worked really well. If you want to cut the tank out, it envolves flying fiberglass in a confined space, and you then still have to get into it once it's removed. Once last tidbit that has really saved my ass out there, was the previous owner put in an electric fuel pump right after the lift pump, I recommend one. I did have pics, if I find them, I'll post them. Better safe than sorry, It's best to know exactly what's going on regarding what's in your fuel tank, because when it messes up, it'lll probably be a moment when you really need your engine to work. Really, think about it, big wind, then big waves/current, shakes up tank, kills motor, which is needed to stay safely in the cut fighting the breakwater, etc.
Kb

Ed Schenck · Apr 13, 2012

I'm on the fence with this idea of removing the tank. My boat was twenty years old when I cut access holes to clean the tank. There was almost nothing in there worth the effort. Other people find lots of crap. I would suggest one access hole of about 8" where you can see the fuel pickup. If there is a lot of gunk there at the lowest point in the tank then maybe make the decision.

I can change the filter, in a rough seaway, in about 30 seconds. I have found that the Racor takes care of everything. Pulling the top off and replacing the insert should not require any bleeding. Usually you get a warning when you start to notice the rpms changing with no change to throttle position. Just saying. . . .

Benny17441 · Apr 13, 2012

We had a rcurrying problem and on a particular trip we went through three Racor filters. We had the wind on the nose and needed to make Boca Grande before sundown. They kept clogging up with dirt and the engine would loose RPM and power. As we ran out of spares we had to remove the filter element and operate the Racor without it, relying just on the engine mounted secondary filter. The engine ran fine with no loss of power allowing us to get to our destination. As soon as we could we replaced the secondary filter for good measure but it did not show much dirt. After that incident we went with less restrictive filters for the Racor and it seems that has solved the probelm and we don't notice any cloggin of the secondary.

redhead78 · Apr 13, 2012

Hey Jack I have a stainless tank same situation, removing is not an option right now, how did u cut the holes. I may be able to get a right angle drill in there, not a lot of height there. Can I purchase SS circular plates to cove after?>>>Red

Sailorjack · Apr 14, 2012

Redhead78

My tank is aluminum and I had easy access to the top of of the tank. I marked where I wanted the holes and used a jig saw to cut them. Cleaning the aluminum chips out of the tank was a pain. Cutting stainless will be more difficult especially without good access. As you suggest an angle drill with a hole saw might be the answer. Removing the tank might be a better choice in your situation.

Ed

I didn't find much gunk in the tank but I had just bought the boat and wasn't confident that the PO had taken measures to minimize algae growth. I know now I have a relatively clean tank.

J Hunter · Apr 14, 2012

My tank sat for 9 years about half full before I recommissioned it. I had a very low budget so I only did what proved necessary, that was 2000 no problems since, I do nothing except change my filter every 3 years.

I disconnected the hose before the filter, put an extension on it drained the old fuel. I was doing something else while my brother "cleaned" the tank. He took off the two biggest connections at the top of the tank. One was the fuel level gauge which I think is about 1 inch round and I don't remember what the other one was. He made up an extra long 5/8' dia. shop vac implement and while peering into the tank with a flashlight at the other opening sucked out the remaining residue. He said he could get a pretty good look at about 90% of the bottom of the tank, and he could get his pick up tube back into those stern corners that he couldn't get a look at. We mixed up about 2 gallons of fresh diesel with some a few ounces of diesel fuel treatment (I'm guessing we bought the stuff that made the most amazing claims of water and decomposition products absorption on the label for under 10 bucks, but it was awhile ago). I closed the fuel valve and he added about a quart of the mix to the empty tank and then took a boiler cleaning brush (round at tip, slighlty tapered cylindrical black nylon stiff bristles on the end of about a two feet of flexible, twisted steel wire) and again using the flashlight scrubbed and sloshed the bottom and sides of the tank through the small opening. We drained and vacuumed that out and repeated that process 3 more times. I imagine a larger tank with baffles and no way to get a look at or get a brush or vacuum implement to large portions of the tank may require making additional access holes, but that wasn't necessary on the h30.

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