What is the correct method to keep the diesel fuel fresh for next spring. I hear topping up the tank to full and adding a quart of winterizing stuff. I have never actually used a full tank of fuel over 3 years and was wondering about the age of the fuel. Does it go bad over time? Should the tank be drained and cleaned out?
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Generally speaking
It's best to top off before the end of the season, to preclude any moisture build-up. Not sure a quart of winterizing stuff is the right approach. Ask around your dock what the protocol is in Ontario. I add cetane for oomph, biodiesel for anti-growth, and a thing called Fuel Power to absorb water. The amounts are very precise, ie. 3 oz per 10 gallons for certain chems, so be sure to get it right. Yanmar website may be more helpful. As to cleaning out the tank, I wouldn't do it if the engine has been run consistently and seems to be running well. You can always "polish" the fuel by pumping out and through an elaborate filter, but it seems cumbersome and messy.
It's best to top off before the end of the season, to preclude any moisture build-up. Not sure a quart of winterizing stuff is the right approach. Ask around your dock what the protocol is in Ontario. I add cetane for oomph, biodiesel for anti-growth, and a thing called Fuel Power to absorb water. The amounts are very precise, ie. 3 oz per 10 gallons for certain chems, so be sure to get it right. Yanmar website may be more helpful. As to cleaning out the tank, I wouldn't do it if the engine has been run consistently and seems to be running well. You can always "polish" the fuel by pumping out and through an elaborate filter, but it seems cumbersome and messy.
additives
At the Mack Boring "A Day With Your Diesel" it was recommended to use 8+ Cetane Improver to maintain diesel's equivalent to Octane in gasoline. He also recommended same mfg's Killem Biocide to take care of the enjeebies growing in the fuel. They distribute them both, of course, in the NE US. I will be thoroughly rinsing & filtering through the fuel in my tank this spring. I have had the boat one year and the previous owner did not tend the fuel too well, hence I have a lot of crude settling in the bottom of the Racor pre-filter. The Killem may have accelerated the precipitation of crude, but better I think to now its there & get rid of it. Boat yard will be rinsing & filtering, I don't have the equipment, nor do I want it. Most of the advice I have seen & heard says to use (proper, not everything in the book)additives to keep fuel stable & clean.
At the Mack Boring "A Day With Your Diesel" it was recommended to use 8+ Cetane Improver to maintain diesel's equivalent to Octane in gasoline. He also recommended same mfg's Killem Biocide to take care of the enjeebies growing in the fuel. They distribute them both, of course, in the NE US. I will be thoroughly rinsing & filtering through the fuel in my tank this spring. I have had the boat one year and the previous owner did not tend the fuel too well, hence I have a lot of crude settling in the bottom of the Racor pre-filter. The Killem may have accelerated the precipitation of crude, but better I think to now its there & get rid of it. Boat yard will be rinsing & filtering, I don't have the equipment, nor do I want it. Most of the advice I have seen & heard says to use (proper, not everything in the book)additives to keep fuel stable & clean.
Winterizing
Use a biocide as mentioned above, and Sta-Bil as the stabilizer...get the latter at WalMart. It's good stuff, 8 oz per 20 gallons of fuel. Been using it for years, never a problem in the spring.
Use a biocide as mentioned above, and Sta-Bil as the stabilizer...get the latter at WalMart. It's good stuff, 8 oz per 20 gallons of fuel. Been using it for years, never a problem in the spring.
What is the correct method to keep the diesel fuel
Can you stay any younger over time? If you find that magic, please share.
Stu
Can you stay any younger over time? If you find that magic, please share.
Stu
Its usually best to drain and take the ......
old fuel home and burn it in your oil burner. Diesel fuel has a relatively short 'shelf life'. Additives are only short term 'band-aids'. www.bp.com.au/fuelnews/ADF1402.pdf Once fuel starts to degrade the process accelerates. If you have a 'rated' tank the best is to simply close the vent valve to prevent moisture ingress. Most boats dont have 'rated' tanks and will implode by the vacuum generated by thermal changes if closed. A 'slick' alternative is to apply a desiccant filter (charged with preconditioned silica gel) to the vent to adsorb any moisture when the tank breathes - available from air compressor distributors. Water condensation is more of a 'summertime' problem due to the higher 'absolute' humidity (more water in air in summer than in winter). Three years is a long time for fuel vs. the normal decomposition process. When to drain and entirely replace: suck up a bit of fuel into a clear glass vessel and hold up the glass filled with fuel to a strong light. If the fuel has become 'dark' and there is a noticable haze (light scatter) then the fuel has 'gone over to the dark side' and the tank should be scrubbed out to remove the 'particulate' adhereing on the tank walls. Boat tanks usually need to be cleaned every 3-5 years. For a totally empty tank the water accumulation is easy to remove in the spring before you recommission the tank. Water absorbing and fuel stabilizing compounds are OK but dont apply if the fuel has begun to 'particulate' (dark and hazey).
old fuel home and burn it in your oil burner. Diesel fuel has a relatively short 'shelf life'. Additives are only short term 'band-aids'. www.bp.com.au/fuelnews/ADF1402.pdf Once fuel starts to degrade the process accelerates. If you have a 'rated' tank the best is to simply close the vent valve to prevent moisture ingress. Most boats dont have 'rated' tanks and will implode by the vacuum generated by thermal changes if closed. A 'slick' alternative is to apply a desiccant filter (charged with preconditioned silica gel) to the vent to adsorb any moisture when the tank breathes - available from air compressor distributors. Water condensation is more of a 'summertime' problem due to the higher 'absolute' humidity (more water in air in summer than in winter). Three years is a long time for fuel vs. the normal decomposition process. When to drain and entirely replace: suck up a bit of fuel into a clear glass vessel and hold up the glass filled with fuel to a strong light. If the fuel has become 'dark' and there is a noticable haze (light scatter) then the fuel has 'gone over to the dark side' and the tank should be scrubbed out to remove the 'particulate' adhereing on the tank walls. Boat tanks usually need to be cleaned every 3-5 years. For a totally empty tank the water accumulation is easy to remove in the spring before you recommission the tank. Water absorbing and fuel stabilizing compounds are OK but dont apply if the fuel has begun to 'particulate' (dark and hazey).
Lake Ontario Experience
I know of lots of boats, mine included, at my club that only use 1/4 to 1/2 a tank of diesel per season. Some, like me, top the tank up for winter storage but most just store the boat with what's left in the tank. I don't know of any member who adds a biocide, so I don't think it is frequently used. Around here the diesel seems to age very well, and as long as you are adding some fresh diesel every year I have never heard of anyone having fuel problems. I suspect that a lot of the additive advice is really aimed at boats in more humid and warm regions than ours. Kevin
I know of lots of boats, mine included, at my club that only use 1/4 to 1/2 a tank of diesel per season. Some, like me, top the tank up for winter storage but most just store the boat with what's left in the tank. I don't know of any member who adds a biocide, so I don't think it is frequently used. Around here the diesel seems to age very well, and as long as you are adding some fresh diesel every year I have never heard of anyone having fuel problems. I suspect that a lot of the additive advice is really aimed at boats in more humid and warm regions than ours. Kevin
Quart of winterizing stuff
No, not a quart of winterizing stuff. You'll damage the engine. Many questions and many opinions on this. When in doubt don't do anything and it will be ok. READ the directions carefuuly before adding anything to the fuel. Additives are make for powerboats and therefore make to treat large tanks of fuel. You'll need very little.
No, not a quart of winterizing stuff. You'll damage the engine. Many questions and many opinions on this. When in doubt don't do anything and it will be ok. READ the directions carefuuly before adding anything to the fuel. Additives are make for powerboats and therefore make to treat large tanks of fuel. You'll need very little.
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