Well it's done. The Vision 32 is now mine (and the banks). I haven't really had any real experience with Diesel engines, specifically the fuel. I have heard horror stories of how it can become contaminated. This Vision has lived for 8 years with little use and has no Diesel problems and I would like to keep it that way. Does anyone use additives, stabilizers on a regular basis? If I use the boat as much as I plan would using good clean fuel alone pose any risks? Thanks for the advice in advance. This site is fantastic.
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Pete
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Brad
Biocide
I suggest that in addition to performance and detergent additives, you consider a biocide as well.
I suggest that in addition to performance and detergent additives, you consider a biocide as well.
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Jim O'Brien
cetane booster
What the heck .... why not cetane booster too ..... keep adding and you won't need fuel .. (no more room) Jim OB Wynsum
What the heck .... why not cetane booster too ..... keep adding and you won't need fuel .. (no more room) Jim OB Wynsum
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mark slifko
fuel filter
Learn how to change your fuel filter and how to prime the fuel system ! Always keep spare fuel filter and tools required to change the filter. If you are comfortable doing this and change once per year, depending on use and fuel you should be good to go. Remember, if you have alot of growth in the fuel and you add a biocide(as you should) change the filter more often !
Learn how to change your fuel filter and how to prime the fuel system ! Always keep spare fuel filter and tools required to change the filter. If you are comfortable doing this and change once per year, depending on use and fuel you should be good to go. Remember, if you have alot of growth in the fuel and you add a biocide(as you should) change the filter more often !
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Eric Lorgus
Diesel engines hate water
Rob, I have a 87H28.5 with a 10 gallon diesel tank. I've been told that with a tank of this size (small), organism growth isn't a big problem. I don't use any additives, and so far, have had no problems. I do, however, try to keep the tank full, as this will reduce condensation inside the tank. One final tip - make sure the fuel filler cap has an o-ring and that it's in good condition. If it's missing or in poor condition, you can get water in your tank from spray, rain, washing, etc.
Rob, I have a 87H28.5 with a 10 gallon diesel tank. I've been told that with a tank of this size (small), organism growth isn't a big problem. I don't use any additives, and so far, have had no problems. I do, however, try to keep the tank full, as this will reduce condensation inside the tank. One final tip - make sure the fuel filler cap has an o-ring and that it's in good condition. If it's missing or in poor condition, you can get water in your tank from spray, rain, washing, etc.
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James Marohn
This thing called the impellor
Hurray! Another Vision-32 owner! I'm sure you will enjoy her as much as we do ours. Aside from fuel and oil maintenance, I've learned: 1) Carry several spare impellors for your fresh water cooling system (gaskets and teflon grease to go with). Know how to disassemble the belts to gain access and change the impellor. 2) Know how to bleed your fuel lines to get rid of any air pockets (and watch your fingers when working with the belts!) 3) Keep your tank relatively full. Like Eric mentioned, when you get water in your fuel lines, you'll need to bleed your lines (item 2 above). These aren't necessarily maintenance issues, but are good to have knowledge of...knowing how to do these simple (and they are very simple) repairs can give you lots of breathing room, less stress so you can really enjoy when you are out and about. There's nothing like the sinking feeling you get when your engine doesn't start when you most need it. Happy Sailing!! Tina & James Marohn Perelandra - Seattle Vision 32
Hurray! Another Vision-32 owner! I'm sure you will enjoy her as much as we do ours. Aside from fuel and oil maintenance, I've learned: 1) Carry several spare impellors for your fresh water cooling system (gaskets and teflon grease to go with). Know how to disassemble the belts to gain access and change the impellor. 2) Know how to bleed your fuel lines to get rid of any air pockets (and watch your fingers when working with the belts!) 3) Keep your tank relatively full. Like Eric mentioned, when you get water in your fuel lines, you'll need to bleed your lines (item 2 above). These aren't necessarily maintenance issues, but are good to have knowledge of...knowing how to do these simple (and they are very simple) repairs can give you lots of breathing room, less stress so you can really enjoy when you are out and about. There's nothing like the sinking feeling you get when your engine doesn't start when you most need it. Happy Sailing!! Tina & James Marohn Perelandra - Seattle Vision 32
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attyrek@beaufortco.com
Water in fuel or thru exhaust
Water in the fuel or back flow from the exhaust (even with the U shaper riser) can be a disaster. Usually your fuel filter with do the job with water in the fuel. But if you stand on your starter too long ( not more than 30 seconds at a time)you do run the risk of water backing up. I had this problem and the water caused the number three rod (piston most forward) to warp. Actually will bend the rod. Naturally, you don't tear down the engine to replace one rod. Better to replace all three rods, pistons, rings, etc. Cost about $2k. So be careful!
Water in the fuel or back flow from the exhaust (even with the U shaper riser) can be a disaster. Usually your fuel filter with do the job with water in the fuel. But if you stand on your starter too long ( not more than 30 seconds at a time)you do run the risk of water backing up. I had this problem and the water caused the number three rod (piston most forward) to warp. Actually will bend the rod. Naturally, you don't tear down the engine to replace one rod. Better to replace all three rods, pistons, rings, etc. Cost about $2k. So be careful!
Run the engine regularly
Rob: Run your engine under a load on a regular basis. Only use Yanmar approved oil filters and oil type for your engine. They do not recommend any oil boosters or synthetics. Change your raw water impeller every year or two. Keep the old ones for spares. Change your belts every 3-4 years (they always break at the most in-opertune times). Save the old belts as a spare too. Keep you belts properly tensioned. Loose belts cause your engine compartment to have a soot like dust which should be cleaned. This gets sucked into the air filter. Clean the air filter annually. If you do not have a Racor or similar primary filter add one. Change the engine filter every year or two. Alway add some type of Biocide to fuel during refueling Change your oil each season, more often if you motor a lot (every 100 hours) Check your mixing elbow every couple of years. If you operate in salt water then you will probably need to change it every 4-6 years. They get corroded and coke up. This will cause your engine to overheat, and not run properly. Change the transmission oil every other year. Also you MUST learn how to bleed the air from the fuel system. There are two (10mm screw/bolts) that can be loosened and a "finger" pump to pump fuel from the tank, thru the primary filter and the engine fuel filter and up to the high pressure pump. If you engine does not start after a couple of cranks be sure to turn OFF the raw water intake. They actually recommend that you close the thru hull every time you are done using the boat anyway, but not many do. It is actually best to start the engine without any raw water and then turn it on after the engine is started. This will prevent the problem in one of the previous posts ($2000 LATER). Take care of your diesel and it will take care of you. 12,000 - 15,000 hours life expectancy if properly maintained and no disasters. It will probably out live the hull and/or owners. Now this is the basic stuff that everyone else can add to or correct me.
Rob: Run your engine under a load on a regular basis. Only use Yanmar approved oil filters and oil type for your engine. They do not recommend any oil boosters or synthetics. Change your raw water impeller every year or two. Keep the old ones for spares. Change your belts every 3-4 years (they always break at the most in-opertune times). Save the old belts as a spare too. Keep you belts properly tensioned. Loose belts cause your engine compartment to have a soot like dust which should be cleaned. This gets sucked into the air filter. Clean the air filter annually. If you do not have a Racor or similar primary filter add one. Change the engine filter every year or two. Alway add some type of Biocide to fuel during refueling Change your oil each season, more often if you motor a lot (every 100 hours) Check your mixing elbow every couple of years. If you operate in salt water then you will probably need to change it every 4-6 years. They get corroded and coke up. This will cause your engine to overheat, and not run properly. Change the transmission oil every other year. Also you MUST learn how to bleed the air from the fuel system. There are two (10mm screw/bolts) that can be loosened and a "finger" pump to pump fuel from the tank, thru the primary filter and the engine fuel filter and up to the high pressure pump. If you engine does not start after a couple of cranks be sure to turn OFF the raw water intake. They actually recommend that you close the thru hull every time you are done using the boat anyway, but not many do. It is actually best to start the engine without any raw water and then turn it on after the engine is started. This will prevent the problem in one of the previous posts ($2000 LATER). Take care of your diesel and it will take care of you. 12,000 - 15,000 hours life expectancy if properly maintained and no disasters. It will probably out live the hull and/or owners. Now this is the basic stuff that everyone else can add to or correct me.
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terry dornan
back to school
In most areas Yanmar dealers offer a 1 day class in diesel operation and owner maintenance. Well worth the time and effort to talk to the local dealer and see if you can hook up to one. terry
In most areas Yanmar dealers offer a 1 day class in diesel operation and owner maintenance. Well worth the time and effort to talk to the local dealer and see if you can hook up to one. terry
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Eric Lorgus
Know where the compression levers are
and when to use them. Yanmars have a lever on the top of each cylinder. "Opening" the lever will relieve the compression in the cylinder. This can come in handy in a couple of situations. One might be you haven't used the engine in a while and want to turn it over without starting it (also remember to shutoff fuel if cranking only). The main use of these levers is to assist starting when the battery is weak. Remember to do ALL of the cylinders together, don't just uncompress some. Open all the levers and standby while your crew engages the starter. Even with a weak battery the starter should be able to crank the engine. Mind the belts and moving parts while doing this. After a few seconds, take advantage of the cranking momentum by then closing the levers. It should catch. If it doesn't, repeat the same steps. The warning about closing the water intake during extended cranking is well given. Without the force of the exhaust, intake water being pumped in by the cranking can backup through the exhaust and get into the cylinders. If enough gets into a cylinder on its downstroke, it can't compress the water on its upstroke and the rod or some other vital part bends or breaks. You should never crank an engine for more than 15 seconds, if that long. Starter motors will heat up rapidly, and aren't designed to dissipate the heat. The earlier post about the diesel schools is excellent. In my area (upper Chesapeake), Tidewater Marina gives several over the winter, and they're always sold out & very worthwhile.
and when to use them. Yanmars have a lever on the top of each cylinder. "Opening" the lever will relieve the compression in the cylinder. This can come in handy in a couple of situations. One might be you haven't used the engine in a while and want to turn it over without starting it (also remember to shutoff fuel if cranking only). The main use of these levers is to assist starting when the battery is weak. Remember to do ALL of the cylinders together, don't just uncompress some. Open all the levers and standby while your crew engages the starter. Even with a weak battery the starter should be able to crank the engine. Mind the belts and moving parts while doing this. After a few seconds, take advantage of the cranking momentum by then closing the levers. It should catch. If it doesn't, repeat the same steps. The warning about closing the water intake during extended cranking is well given. Without the force of the exhaust, intake water being pumped in by the cranking can backup through the exhaust and get into the cylinders. If enough gets into a cylinder on its downstroke, it can't compress the water on its upstroke and the rod or some other vital part bends or breaks. You should never crank an engine for more than 15 seconds, if that long. Starter motors will heat up rapidly, and aren't designed to dissipate the heat. The earlier post about the diesel schools is excellent. In my area (upper Chesapeake), Tidewater Marina gives several over the winter, and they're always sold out & very worthwhile.
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Bryan C.
Hey Steve, that was a pretty good outline
I'm adding your entire post in my maintenance log. I recommend getting Nigel Calder's "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual." Its about $30 at WM or BoatUS. It has all sorts of good info on how diesels work, and how to maintain and troubleshoot them. As an additional bonus, you get a reference manual on how every other system on your boat works and should be maintained and fixed.
I'm adding your entire post in my maintenance log. I recommend getting Nigel Calder's "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual." Its about $30 at WM or BoatUS. It has all sorts of good info on how diesels work, and how to maintain and troubleshoot them. As an additional bonus, you get a reference manual on how every other system on your boat works and should be maintained and fixed.
Thanks Brian
Thanks Brian. And isn't this a lot more productive than worrying about Bernie's problems and Hunters mistake? I just love it when everyone gets along.
Thanks Brian. And isn't this a lot more productive than worrying about Bernie's problems and Hunters mistake? I just love it when everyone gets along.
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