Diagnosing engine issues - Universal M25
- Thread starter Dave96734
- Start date
get a test strip that indicates water from NAPA etc.. pull the dip stick and use that oil to run a check.. A negative indication doesn't mean you are out of the woods, but it is starting place.. I have a C34. It has an aqua lift silencer. From the head sink cabinet it is somewhat accessible. If you too have this arrangement, there should be a quarter turn valve to open and drain the aqua lift. Open this and drain it. Reclose the valve. Leave the raw thru hull shut and try to start. IF it fires, open the raw valve. Check the overside exhaust for water and exhaust. If the exhaust system is occluded your engine rill run for a short time before back pressure shuts it down. IF this happens, the exhaust riser is the likely suspect..
Don't break out the champagne yet. Is that hose in the suction or discharge side of the lift pump ?
You may want to renew every last inch of fuel hose within your engine compartment. I replaced all hoses within the hot engine compartment last winter. AF, sea water, and fuel. They were 24 years old and about 2200 operating hrs. None of the fuel hoses cracked like yours in a 180° bend but they were getting harder than the hoses outside the compartment. The outside fuel hose was identical to the new hose I purchased so I only replaced the inside fuel hose up to the first fitting outside of the compartment. The return line I did cut near the electric lift pump. All fuel hose connections are kept together in one place.
You may want to renew every last inch of fuel hose within your engine compartment. I replaced all hoses within the hot engine compartment last winter. AF, sea water, and fuel. They were 24 years old and about 2200 operating hrs. None of the fuel hoses cracked like yours in a 180° bend but they were getting harder than the hoses outside the compartment. The outside fuel hose was identical to the new hose I purchased so I only replaced the inside fuel hose up to the first fitting outside of the compartment. The return line I did cut near the electric lift pump. All fuel hose connections are kept together in one place.
One time, my RPM's stopped going more than 2000RPM and took a week to figure out the fuel shutoff lever/cable was was badly frayed and my engine stop lever was never fully opening the fuel.
Another time, I was working on the cockpit instrument panel, and afterwards, tried to start the motor, and it wouldn't. I spent a couple hours trying to figure out why, only to find the T handle was still up (covered up by the pulled out re-worked instrument panel).
Not saying any of that is related, just that most of the time it is a simple problem and solution.
Another time, I was working on the cockpit instrument panel, and afterwards, tried to start the motor, and it wouldn't. I spent a couple hours trying to figure out why, only to find the T handle was still up (covered up by the pulled out re-worked instrument panel).
Not saying any of that is related, just that most of the time it is a simple problem and solution.
With a no-start condition on an engine with glow plugs, the first thing you should confirm is operation of the glow plugs. Most diesels with glow plugs will either not start or have a hard time starting without operating glow plugs. Voltage should be confirmed to glow plugs and each glow plug checked for proper resistance to determine if they are operating.