depth transducer and plumbing issue

[George Braun]

so we re-commissioned our 2008 Hunter 36 this weekend. To my annoyance, one of the things I managed to not remember over the winter before splashing the boat was to measure the distance from bottom of keel to depth transducer, in order to set the thing properly. Anyone know the answer?
second - filled, rinsed, and filled the water system. When open any cold water faucet the pressure pump runs fine, but when asking the system for hot, the pump "pulses" and pressure is a fraction of the cold side. Any guesses as to cause? Hot tank is working as it should.

 

[Davidasailor26]

filled, rinsed, and filled the water system. When open any cold water faucet the pressure pump runs fine, but when asking the system for hot, the pump "pulses" and pressure is a fraction of the cold side. Any guesses as to cause? Hot tank is working as it should.

Two possibilities come to mind - The hot water tank might still not be full. It does take quite a bit of time for that to fill back up. By “pulses” do you mean the pump runs constantly, or does it cycle on and off? If running constantly my guess is the tank just still has air in it. The other possibility is that a check valve could’ve been reinstalled backwards somewhere in the winterization process. There usually is a check valve on the cold water input into the tank, so reinstalling that backwards could lead to symptoms like you’re seeing.

 

[artboas]

so we re-commissioned our 2008 Hunter 36 this weekend. To my annoyance, one of the things I managed to not remember over the winter before splashing the boat was to measure the distance from bottom of keel to depth transducer, in order to set the thing properly. Anyone know the answer?
second - filled, rinsed, and filled the water system. When open any cold water faucet the pressure pump runs fine, but when asking the system for hot, the pump "pulses" and pressure is a fraction of the cold side. Any guesses as to cause? Hot tank is working as it should.

There is likely a hot-cold mixer valve on your tank. These have a filter screen on them which gets clogged.
You’ll need to remove it, and clean the sediment, etc out of it.
That’s my best guess

 

[dlochner]

Bleed the HW tank. The easiest way is to open the valve on the pressure relief valve. Water should come out.

 

[JamesG161]

distance from bottom of keel to depth transducer, in order to set the thing properly. Anyone know the answer?

I set my depth alarm by adding 2 feet from a direct sounding.
______
Another method is to stop your boat over a shallow area.

Then drop a "weight on a rope" [adjacent to transducer] to find actual depth to water line.

Adjust to actual depth.

Jim...

PS: Mine actually shoots the sonar beam about 20 feet in front of the boat.

 

[seadaddler]

Yes check screen going into hot water heater had happen need cleaning screen.
Can’t remember keel offset but I use line overboard to check depth of water and set depth how deep water is when sailing.

 

[sailcapt340]

My 2000 340, with a shallow draft keel (4’6”) is set to 1 foot below the keel bottom. So depending on where your depth sounder is located (should be like mine, about 6 inches in front of the keel) and you know your keel height. Set it for 1 foot more than that and you will be safe.
I did exactly what James suggested when they moved my mooring piles 3 feet further from the channel edge. After about 30 years they found we were about 2 1/2 feet into the channel. This put me very close to the channel edge and I was concerned I would be bottoming out in a very low tide.
I am still in clear water to the bottom but by a foot. My depth sounder verified the line measurement by 9 inches. Close enough, could have been a fish swimming by at the time, who knows.