I want to add a speed/depth to my new 212. This is just a toy I want and I have no rationale or justification for its usefullness. A through the hull fitting is out of the question because it will void the warranty. I *want* a Ratheon ST40 Bidata, but I'd have to use a transom mount transducer. I'm *thinking* of attaching the transducer to the hull forward of the keel board (which it is the ideal location) using epoxy or attaching it to the transom as designed. Suggestions and opinions about such an instrument on a Hunter 212 are appreciated. Do you use a speed and/or depth instrument on a 212? If so,what brand/model do you have and are you happy with it? Did you have to do a special mount? If, so what did you do? Thanks
- Status
Void the warranty?
Why would a thru hull void the warranty. Every one of the larger Hunters (any other boat for that matter) has thru hulls for the transducers. I assume that your model is fiberglass! If it is you just drill the hole(s). Use the backing plate (plywood) with a hole the same size as the transducer and hull hole. Caulk the backer to the hull (3M-4200, Lifecaulk, etc). Caulk the transducer and then hook the units up.
Why would a thru hull void the warranty. Every one of the larger Hunters (any other boat for that matter) has thru hulls for the transducers. I assume that your model is fiberglass! If it is you just drill the hole(s). Use the backing plate (plywood) with a hole the same size as the transducer and hull hole. Caulk the backer to the hull (3M-4200, Lifecaulk, etc). Caulk the transducer and then hook the units up.
Yes, it can void the warranty
The Hunter 212 and all the smaller boats (170, 140, etc.) have an ACM (advanced composite material) hull. The outer layer is plastic, the middle layer is foam, and the inside layer is fiberglass. If you drill through the hull, you might not make a watertight seal. Epoxy won't work (doesn't stick to plastic), and most other caulks will eventually leak, which will get water into the foam core. I'm sure a waterproof through-hull can be done, but the average person doesn't have the equipment to weld/heat-seal plastic.
The Hunter 212 and all the smaller boats (170, 140, etc.) have an ACM (advanced composite material) hull. The outer layer is plastic, the middle layer is foam, and the inside layer is fiberglass. If you drill through the hull, you might not make a watertight seal. Epoxy won't work (doesn't stick to plastic), and most other caulks will eventually leak, which will get water into the foam core. I'm sure a waterproof through-hull can be done, but the average person doesn't have the equipment to weld/heat-seal plastic.
Thank you Russ!
Thanks Russ for clearing up the point regarding hull composition. That is exactly why I put that in the post. If I were Steven (and I am), I'd call Hunter for guidance.
Thanks Russ for clearing up the point regarding hull composition. That is exactly why I put that in the post. If I were Steven (and I am), I'd call Hunter for guidance.
Speed/Depth
I have an h23 and installed the Standard DS30 Series digital depth and speed instruments. The transducers are designed to couple together and mount on the transom. Works well and I didn't have to drill thru hulls. Check it out.
I have an h23 and installed the Standard DS30 Series digital depth and speed instruments. The transducers are designed to couple together and mount on the transom. Works well and I didn't have to drill thru hulls. Check it out.
Thanks for the input .. and more questions
Thanks for the input, all. Now for some follow-up ... 1. Russ mentions that epoxy won't stick to the plastic hull, does that mean that even the Speedmate won't work? The speed indicator is supposed to attach to the bottom of the boat, after all. 2. I looked at the Speedmate with my dealer (er ... BOAT dealer
and we wondered if the Speedmate would read through the hull. As I (we) understand it, the 212 APC hull also incorporates metal ballast as one of the layers. Would this ballast interfer with the signal from the sender to the receiver on the inside of the hull? I have, BTW, asked Hunter for recommendations, but they have been pretty noncommital. I do understand that they might not want to be in the habit of recommending specific brands but considering the limited options for the APC hulls, it would be nice to get some feedback. I guess I'll have to take the Ted Turner approach ... annoy the hell out of them until they give me the information I want. Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Thanks for the input, all. Now for some follow-up ... 1. Russ mentions that epoxy won't stick to the plastic hull, does that mean that even the Speedmate won't work? The speed indicator is supposed to attach to the bottom of the boat, after all. 2. I looked at the Speedmate with my dealer (er ... BOAT dealer
and we wondered if the Speedmate would read through the hull. As I (we) understand it, the 212 APC hull also incorporates metal ballast as one of the layers. Would this ballast interfer with the signal from the sender to the receiver on the inside of the hull? I have, BTW, asked Hunter for recommendations, but they have been pretty noncommital. I do understand that they might not want to be in the habit of recommending specific brands but considering the limited options for the APC hulls, it would be nice to get some feedback. I guess I'll have to take the Ted Turner approach ... annoy the hell out of them until they give me the information I want. Thanks again for all your suggestions.You can test the ability to read through the hull
Steve, If you want to test whether or not a transducer can read through the hull (i.e., to find a good spot to mount it), you can place it inside the hull where you think you want it to go, and adhere it with toothpaste or peanut butter to get a good, BUBBLE-FREE mating. The adhesive will wash off pretty easily, and if the 'ducer and hull are compatible, you'll get readings on the instrument. Once you determine where you want the 'ducer, you can then clean up the 'test adhesive', clean up the 'ducer, and re-apply with a proper adhesive such as epoxy or silicon per the manufacturer's suggestions. (Also worth noting- If the inner layer of the hull is fiberglass and not plastic, then the epoxy WILL stick to the inner layer...) Another method of testing placement for the 'ducer is to put it in a plastic baggie full of water, and place that on the hull where you want to test it. Cleaner than toothpaste or peanut butter, but loses accuracy above certain speeds (6 knots on my boat) and doesn't actually hold the unit in place. Good luck, --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
Steve, If you want to test whether or not a transducer can read through the hull (i.e., to find a good spot to mount it), you can place it inside the hull where you think you want it to go, and adhere it with toothpaste or peanut butter to get a good, BUBBLE-FREE mating. The adhesive will wash off pretty easily, and if the 'ducer and hull are compatible, you'll get readings on the instrument. Once you determine where you want the 'ducer, you can then clean up the 'test adhesive', clean up the 'ducer, and re-apply with a proper adhesive such as epoxy or silicon per the manufacturer's suggestions. (Also worth noting- If the inner layer of the hull is fiberglass and not plastic, then the epoxy WILL stick to the inner layer...) Another method of testing placement for the 'ducer is to put it in a plastic baggie full of water, and place that on the hull where you want to test it. Cleaner than toothpaste or peanut butter, but loses accuracy above certain speeds (6 knots on my boat) and doesn't actually hold the unit in place. Good luck, --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
JY sailboats
Remember the H212 is a JY sailboat and they can give you better ansewers then Hunter on the way they are constructed if your local dealer can't help.
Remember the H212 is a JY sailboat and they can give you better ansewers then Hunter on the way they are constructed if your local dealer can't help.
What do you think about the 212s
I've got 3 young children and a wife. I'd like to get a 212 someday. I like its large cockpit - for seating the family while sailing, its open transom - for swimming and playing, and the cabin - for getting out of the sun and taking naps. The things I question are: looking at the smooth round bottom and big main sail, is it tender in gusts? 2300 lbs for boat and trailer is pushing the limits of my tow vehicle, what's the real expected tow weight after motor, fuel, and gear? How easy is it really to rig? Is the mast raising system needed? How tall is the mast? I can raise my 17' daysailor's mast easily my self with no raising apparatus (don't know the length of the mast off hand). Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, --Hise
I've got 3 young children and a wife. I'd like to get a 212 someday. I like its large cockpit - for seating the family while sailing, its open transom - for swimming and playing, and the cabin - for getting out of the sun and taking naps. The things I question are: looking at the smooth round bottom and big main sail, is it tender in gusts? 2300 lbs for boat and trailer is pushing the limits of my tow vehicle, what's the real expected tow weight after motor, fuel, and gear? How easy is it really to rig? Is the mast raising system needed? How tall is the mast? I can raise my 17' daysailor's mast easily my self with no raising apparatus (don't know the length of the mast off hand). Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, --Hise
RE: What do you think about the 212s
First, some background upon which to qualify my opinion: This is my first boat. I have had it since Memorial Day 2001. I took an ASA sailing course at LightHouse Landing in KY in the middle of May, before which I had never sailed. I will say that the course and instructor provided me with a **great** foundation upon which to build. >> looking at the smooth round bottom and big main sail, is it tender in gusts? I have found the 212 to be quite predictable and managable in gusts. I'm still getting a feel for the boat but it doesn't seem tender at all. It also sails well under mail alone, BTW. >> 2300 lbs for boat and trailer is pushing the limits of my tow vehicle, what's the real expected tow weight after motor, fuel, and gear? I don't have a tow vehicle at all but, obviously, it depends on how much gear, etc. You should be able to approximate most of the weights pretty closely and you should be able to get a good bit of the gear off the hitch and into your vehicle. >> How easy is it really to rig? Is the mast raising system needed? How tall is the mast? I can raise my 17' daysailor's mast easily my self with no raising apparatus (don't know the length of the mast off hand). I'm not sure what the mast raising system is, exactly. I assume it is a winch and cable attached from the trailer to the mast. The mast is 31' (from the waterline, I think). The dealer took me through the raising process so there were two of us. I have the roller furling jib and we had to push a bit to get it attached. I will fully investigate a mast raising system (Hunter's or my own) before I get into trailering, if only for convenience. Otherwise, getting the mast up is a pretty straight forward operation without a lot of complications. > Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. The more I sail her the more I like her. I have a lot to learn but I couldn't be happier with the boat. You are probably right in thinking about the 212 for your stated needs. Find a dealer or owner that will let you test drive it. Good winds and happy sailing, Steve
First, some background upon which to qualify my opinion: This is my first boat. I have had it since Memorial Day 2001. I took an ASA sailing course at LightHouse Landing in KY in the middle of May, before which I had never sailed. I will say that the course and instructor provided me with a **great** foundation upon which to build. >> looking at the smooth round bottom and big main sail, is it tender in gusts? I have found the 212 to be quite predictable and managable in gusts. I'm still getting a feel for the boat but it doesn't seem tender at all. It also sails well under mail alone, BTW. >> 2300 lbs for boat and trailer is pushing the limits of my tow vehicle, what's the real expected tow weight after motor, fuel, and gear? I don't have a tow vehicle at all but, obviously, it depends on how much gear, etc. You should be able to approximate most of the weights pretty closely and you should be able to get a good bit of the gear off the hitch and into your vehicle. >> How easy is it really to rig? Is the mast raising system needed? How tall is the mast? I can raise my 17' daysailor's mast easily my self with no raising apparatus (don't know the length of the mast off hand). I'm not sure what the mast raising system is, exactly. I assume it is a winch and cable attached from the trailer to the mast. The mast is 31' (from the waterline, I think). The dealer took me through the raising process so there were two of us. I have the roller furling jib and we had to push a bit to get it attached. I will fully investigate a mast raising system (Hunter's or my own) before I get into trailering, if only for convenience. Otherwise, getting the mast up is a pretty straight forward operation without a lot of complications. > Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. The more I sail her the more I like her. I have a lot to learn but I couldn't be happier with the boat. You are probably right in thinking about the 212 for your stated needs. Find a dealer or owner that will let you test drive it. Good winds and happy sailing, Steve
- Status