This sailboat is relatively new to me. I purchased it July 17, 2006 and when the marina was checking out the boat before launching it they noticed that there was a probable leak around the depth transducer. They sealed it (without removal)with slick seam and recommended removal and rebed when boat comes out of the water for the winter. Has anyone had experience with this type of repair? It is under the floor boards in the main cabin. It looks like a rather tight spot. Thanks for the help Mike
Depth Gauge transducer
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Bill O'Donovan
Depends...
Removing and rebedding can damage the hole to such an extent that it becomes a major fiberglass repair. If the seal has held up this long, just keep an eye on it as your weekly checkup to see if there are any leaks. If it ain't broke...
Removing and rebedding can damage the hole to such an extent that it becomes a major fiberglass repair. If the seal has held up this long, just keep an eye on it as your weekly checkup to see if there are any leaks. If it ain't broke...
Depth Gauge Leak
There are two kinds of leaks. The transducer can leak around the thru hull fitting, which can be sealed with 5200 sealant. The other leak is the "o" ring itself which seats the transducer into the transducer well. Here is what I would do: 1. If definitely around the thru hull fitting: Buy a small tube of 5200 sealant and apply to the area around the transducer thru hull fitting. Do not get it on the transducer itself. The 5200 needs to cure and can take several days, depending on temperature. The water pressure might push the 5200 away from the leaking area and it will appear to "swell". Press it into the area leaking and allow to cure to see if that works. It is better to do this out of the water and allow the 5200 to cure and seep into the leaking area, if you can. 2. If leaking from the transducer well. You will need to replace the "o" ring. Unless you are experienced and have done it before, have the boat pulled out of the water or get a qualified service person to do it in the water. You should have a blank plug to put in the transducer well, while you replace the "o" ring. It is much easier to do this out of the water, of course.
There are two kinds of leaks. The transducer can leak around the thru hull fitting, which can be sealed with 5200 sealant. The other leak is the "o" ring itself which seats the transducer into the transducer well. Here is what I would do: 1. If definitely around the thru hull fitting: Buy a small tube of 5200 sealant and apply to the area around the transducer thru hull fitting. Do not get it on the transducer itself. The 5200 needs to cure and can take several days, depending on temperature. The water pressure might push the 5200 away from the leaking area and it will appear to "swell". Press it into the area leaking and allow to cure to see if that works. It is better to do this out of the water and allow the 5200 to cure and seep into the leaking area, if you can. 2. If leaking from the transducer well. You will need to replace the "o" ring. Unless you are experienced and have done it before, have the boat pulled out of the water or get a qualified service person to do it in the water. You should have a blank plug to put in the transducer well, while you replace the "o" ring. It is much easier to do this out of the water, of course.
Don't use 5200 for anything that needs to be removed
Mike: I suggest that you have the transducer removed and replace the backing plate. Then just start from scratch. Re-bed a new backing plate and transducer with a "proper" caulking. 5200 is no better of a caulking and bedding compound than 4200 it just glues things in place better. There are several products that will work well for this purpose. If it was originally bedded with 5200 you may damage the interior & exterior fiberglass/gelcoat when you try removing it. I would be sure to check if the o-ring on the transducer is leaking like Barry mentioned. You should remove the tranducer and replace the o-ring. Be sure to use some waterproof grease on the o-rings when reseating.
Mike: I suggest that you have the transducer removed and replace the backing plate. Then just start from scratch. Re-bed a new backing plate and transducer with a "proper" caulking. 5200 is no better of a caulking and bedding compound than 4200 it just glues things in place better. There are several products that will work well for this purpose. If it was originally bedded with 5200 you may damage the interior & exterior fiberglass/gelcoat when you try removing it. I would be sure to check if the o-ring on the transducer is leaking like Barry mentioned. You should remove the tranducer and replace the o-ring. Be sure to use some waterproof grease on the o-rings when reseating.
Re-bed when Hauled
I'd follow the Marina's advice when you normally haul the boat. The outer casing of the instrument is typically sealed to the hull when installed. When you remove the collar nut from the inside you will be able to see how the casing fits into the hull, typically with a 5/8" to 3/4" wood backing plate. Assuming that the backing plate is the original plywood, it's likely to be delaminated and the source of tehe problem. If you want a stronger than new installation, you should remove the old deteriorated plywood from the inside of the hull and replace it with new 5" diameter 3/4" marine plywood. Pre-drill the instrument hole and bed the plywood to the inside of the hull with an epoxy adhesive such as PC-7 (available at your local hardware store) and let it cure. Lastly, dry fit the instrument casing, then re-install with a sealant like 4200 (not 5200); tighten down the collar nut only hand tight leaving a little more than 1/16" sealant joint on the exterior and squeezing out from under the collar nut. Replace the 'O' ring when you re-install the instrument. I believe in: Do it once - do it right.
I'd follow the Marina's advice when you normally haul the boat. The outer casing of the instrument is typically sealed to the hull when installed. When you remove the collar nut from the inside you will be able to see how the casing fits into the hull, typically with a 5/8" to 3/4" wood backing plate. Assuming that the backing plate is the original plywood, it's likely to be delaminated and the source of tehe problem. If you want a stronger than new installation, you should remove the old deteriorated plywood from the inside of the hull and replace it with new 5" diameter 3/4" marine plywood. Pre-drill the instrument hole and bed the plywood to the inside of the hull with an epoxy adhesive such as PC-7 (available at your local hardware store) and let it cure. Lastly, dry fit the instrument casing, then re-install with a sealant like 4200 (not 5200); tighten down the collar nut only hand tight leaving a little more than 1/16" sealant joint on the exterior and squeezing out from under the collar nut. Replace the 'O' ring when you re-install the instrument. I believe in: Do it once - do it right.
S
Sam Lust
Do Not, Do Not, Do Not
under any circumstances use 5200 on a transducer. You are not looking to make it one with the hull for ever. You just want to seal the clearance between the hull and the transducer housing. I'm partial to marine silicone which states on the tube that it is rated for below water line use. Use any of the Marine silicones you'll find in your local shop. Do not rely on an external application of goop to seal a leak even temporarily. The way the sealant works is to form a resiliant gasket in place. Correct installation of transducer housing: remove existing. If the last "Technicion" used 5200, GOOD LUCK! In beating the piece out you will destroy it. Run the wire into the hull, through the nut and to wherever it goes. Apply a large, fat bead of silicone around both the threaded portion and the flange of the housing. Push it into the hole gently, stopping when you have full contact of the silicone. Have some one hold it while you check to be sure there are no voids in the sealant from inside. You can add sealant from inside if necessary. Try to keep it away from the threaded area the nut will ride on. Snug the nut a bit but DO NOT squeeze out the silicone! You can now gently tool the silicone outside with your finger. Experts spit on the finger first. Walk away. As long as it takes to cure. When it's cured snug down the nut inside. Just enough to compress the silicone a bit. Don't go crazy. should never leak and last about 50 years or untill you replace it with a new improved instrument which of course will require a different diameter hole.
under any circumstances use 5200 on a transducer. You are not looking to make it one with the hull for ever. You just want to seal the clearance between the hull and the transducer housing. I'm partial to marine silicone which states on the tube that it is rated for below water line use. Use any of the Marine silicones you'll find in your local shop. Do not rely on an external application of goop to seal a leak even temporarily. The way the sealant works is to form a resiliant gasket in place. Correct installation of transducer housing: remove existing. If the last "Technicion" used 5200, GOOD LUCK! In beating the piece out you will destroy it. Run the wire into the hull, through the nut and to wherever it goes. Apply a large, fat bead of silicone around both the threaded portion and the flange of the housing. Push it into the hole gently, stopping when you have full contact of the silicone. Have some one hold it while you check to be sure there are no voids in the sealant from inside. You can add sealant from inside if necessary. Try to keep it away from the threaded area the nut will ride on. Snug the nut a bit but DO NOT squeeze out the silicone! You can now gently tool the silicone outside with your finger. Experts spit on the finger first. Walk away. As long as it takes to cure. When it's cured snug down the nut inside. Just enough to compress the silicone a bit. Don't go crazy. should never leak and last about 50 years or untill you replace it with a new improved instrument which of course will require a different diameter hole.
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