I have a 1974 Hunter 25 I've acquired for a dollar (no lie!), obviously she's in pretty bad shape. Since I've done extensive fiberglass work in the past, and my father is a master carpenter I've no worries about bringing her up to ship-shape. My question is this; what is the strength of the foredeck supposed to support. I've no experience with a boat with this thin of a top deck and the foredeck fore of the hatch is very flexible. I've done some coring to check the balsa between the skins and it seems dry and ok. Is this just some delamination or will I have to cut and replace the core. As it stands I don't want to redo the finish until I stiffen that foredeck, else the finish will crack as soon as some weight is applied. (For referrence I weigh 170 lbs) I'd appreciate any knowledge from other '74 owners cause I know the deck shape is different from the later models. Thanks Erik deValk
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Foredeck
A flexable foredeck is a sign of water intrusion into the core. If the boat has been in dry dock for awhile the water may have dried but the damage is still done. The deck should be solid with no flex at all. If your a fiberglass guy it should be possible to repair the deck and there are several alternatives. Obviously, cut the deck out and rebuilding with new core, glass and gell coat is one way. I have heard of people that drill lots of holes in the spungy deck and pump epoxy into each hole to strengthen the deck. Your probably better equipped than I am to make the determination as to what will work best. Good luck, with only $1. invested you can probably spend some to correct the problems without concern of exceeding its value.
A flexable foredeck is a sign of water intrusion into the core. If the boat has been in dry dock for awhile the water may have dried but the damage is still done. The deck should be solid with no flex at all. If your a fiberglass guy it should be possible to repair the deck and there are several alternatives. Obviously, cut the deck out and rebuilding with new core, glass and gell coat is one way. I have heard of people that drill lots of holes in the spungy deck and pump epoxy into each hole to strengthen the deck. Your probably better equipped than I am to make the determination as to what will work best. Good luck, with only $1. invested you can probably spend some to correct the problems without concern of exceeding its value.
Slope cabin?
Erik: Is your H'25 one with the slope cabin, rather than the traditional trunk cabin? One method that will preserve the boat is to use a dremmel tool (or Rotary zip too) and remove the entire area that is in question (may need to make multiple cuts). When you cut this out your would cut on the smooth areas NOT in the non-skid. Then you replace any damaged material in the deck (plywood or balsa). Once the liner has been replaced, you place the cut-out deck back in place glass in along the area that you cut out with the rotary tool and re gel coat the area or just paint the deck. It sounds like there may be quite a bit of damage so this would be preferable to drill a lot of holes. Besides what can you buy for a buck except of a 20 min. phone call!
Erik: Is your H'25 one with the slope cabin, rather than the traditional trunk cabin? One method that will preserve the boat is to use a dremmel tool (or Rotary zip too) and remove the entire area that is in question (may need to make multiple cuts). When you cut this out your would cut on the smooth areas NOT in the non-skid. Then you replace any damaged material in the deck (plywood or balsa). Once the liner has been replaced, you place the cut-out deck back in place glass in along the area that you cut out with the rotary tool and re gel coat the area or just paint the deck. It sounds like there may be quite a bit of damage so this would be preferable to drill a lot of holes. Besides what can you buy for a buck except of a 20 min. phone call!
Thanks
I do have a sloped foredeck instead of the traditional trunk cabin and with it flexing a good 2-3 inches it's pretty dangerous up there in high waves. If I do replace the core (*I've done tons of fiberglass work before but never something this extensive*) does anyone have any ideas how to match the core material without removing good core to compare, and where do you go to acquire balsa my local lumberyard has no idea.
I do have a sloped foredeck instead of the traditional trunk cabin and with it flexing a good 2-3 inches it's pretty dangerous up there in high waves. If I do replace the core (*I've done tons of fiberglass work before but never something this extensive*) does anyone have any ideas how to match the core material without removing good core to compare, and where do you go to acquire balsa my local lumberyard has no idea.
Replace Coring
I also have a 1974 25'. And yes I have replaced much of the coiring. I replaced from the inside. The inside glass layer is very thin. It a messy job but saves the deck. I used bolt and fender washers to hold the new coring until epoxy set. Lots of holes in the deck, but easy to fix as there is no molded in non-skid. New interior glass laid up by hand with help of a foam paint roller. Repainted complete interior (including hull where fabric was removed). Its not perfect, but not bad for what I've invested. Balsa can be obtained from Defender Marine mail order. Good luck.
I also have a 1974 25'. And yes I have replaced much of the coiring. I replaced from the inside. The inside glass layer is very thin. It a messy job but saves the deck. I used bolt and fender washers to hold the new coring until epoxy set. Lots of holes in the deck, but easy to fix as there is no molded in non-skid. New interior glass laid up by hand with help of a foam paint roller. Repainted complete interior (including hull where fabric was removed). Its not perfect, but not bad for what I've invested. Balsa can be obtained from Defender Marine mail order. Good luck.
One final question
Just one last thing (you folks have been great so far!) Rick mentions doing the repair from the inside to save the deck. I've had plans to add Treadmaster M non-skid to replace the old non-skid paint (it's more attractive, and safer in my opinion) I'm assuming that means grinding the deck surface down a bit to expoxy the Rubberized material down. Do you folks think that doing the repair from the topside and replacing the outside skin with "new" fiberglass cloth will save me time to apply the Treadmaster by cutting the grinding step. Again thanks for all the opinions offered cause this is a big job for me, I've never intentionally cut holes in my boats before.
Just one last thing (you folks have been great so far!) Rick mentions doing the repair from the inside to save the deck. I've had plans to add Treadmaster M non-skid to replace the old non-skid paint (it's more attractive, and safer in my opinion) I'm assuming that means grinding the deck surface down a bit to expoxy the Rubberized material down. Do you folks think that doing the repair from the topside and replacing the outside skin with "new" fiberglass cloth will save me time to apply the Treadmaster by cutting the grinding step. Again thanks for all the opinions offered cause this is a big job for me, I've never intentionally cut holes in my boats before.
Treadmaster
GO to www.sailnet.com, click "Ask the Experts" on the left hand side. Click on "Hull and Deck" , scroll down and you will find a good article on installing treadmaster. Good luck
GO to www.sailnet.com, click "Ask the Experts" on the left hand side. Click on "Hull and Deck" , scroll down and you will find a good article on installing treadmaster. Good luck
From the inside
On my boat the inside fiberglass skin was so thin and deteriorated I don't think that I would have been able to maintain the correct contours of the deck. You might want to cut a sample from the inside to see what it looks like. I thought about tred master but the price scared me away. I repaint deck, including a nonskid additive in the appropriate locations. I'm happy with the results. Rick.
On my boat the inside fiberglass skin was so thin and deteriorated I don't think that I would have been able to maintain the correct contours of the deck. You might want to cut a sample from the inside to see what it looks like. I thought about tred master but the price scared me away. I repaint deck, including a nonskid additive in the appropriate locations. I'm happy with the results. Rick.
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