Both Finese-it and Perfect-it applications will benefit if the wax is first removed. The wax removal will extract the old dead wax thats down in the 'macroscopic porosity' of the gel. Strong caustic detergents work best for wax removal; soak time is important.
With both products they are probably made with extremely fine ground diatomaceous earth or "DE" (fossilized one celled animals) and besides the abrasion function they also probably fill the surface micro-irregularities (where the old dead wax is located). Wood workers who do 'museum' grade finishes often 'fill' a surface with ground up DE to establish a 'miracle flat surface' before coating and then 'finishing' by hand rubbing, etc.
I don't think it mattered. I hand washed my hull with the Starbrite boat wash (couple of caps fulls per gallon of water) that does not remove the wax. I then polished but used the Presta Ultra Cutting Cream Light rather than Finesse It II. (I used the Presta Light because my hull was not highly oxidized.) Then I waxed with 2 coats of Collinite 885 Fleet Wax Paste.
Basically, I started at step 4 of Maine Sails Tips for a Great Buff Wax:
Note that I bought the Makita buffer and the yellow wool polishing pad then followed the directions to a tee. I have had nothing but compliments for the past two weekends. Two guys told me I have the best wax job in the marina. It took every bit of 24 man hours to do my Beneteau 46 stem to stern.
Saw Easy Wind last week when we stopped by to check out the new Elusive. No doubt you have the best shine in the marina. Definately has the Wow factor. When are you heading to the bay?
Mike
it would be a waste of valuable time,but to test it out do a couple of square feet at the bow where you can see both treated areas at once,but to dewax acetone or denatured achohol is much quicker and more effective then detergants.
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