I'm considering replacing the factory DC control panel on my Beneteau Oceanis 390 with one from BEP Marine - the model 903D panel (http://www.bep.co.nz/showproduct.cfm?productid=59). Have any of you ever installed a panel from BEP??? Any problems with this product?? Do you know of a better panel that you would recommend?? Many thanks. Troy
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Yes and no...
I've spent quite a lot of time on this issue, and finally settled on Blue Sea Systems. The reason is as much availability of components and support from the manufacturer as it is utility. I looked at Marinetics and Bass as well, and, of course, evaluated them in terms of the original OEM panel. First, let me state in no uncertain terms that the original OEM panel on my 1984 Catalina 36, which I think was made by Seaward (not sure) is a piece of junk; a fire waiting to happen. In fact, there was a burnt switch on mine which didn't work, and the fuse was still O.K. - though I don't know the history before I got the boat. The panel has no buss bars of any kind, uses daisy-chained spade connectors to distribute power and ground, and has the fuse holders and switches hot-glued to the back of the panel. The wire is not marine grade. The new panels I've look at are much, much better, but they all have some annoying functional characteristics. One that stands out is the extreme inconvenience of changing a circuit breaker once the panel is all populated and wired; on the BSS panels, it requires removing either all of the breaker mounting screws, or removing the positive bus from all the breakers. Not something you want to face in an emergency or heavy seas. Probably should not be done "hot." Also, some relatively cheap-to-make and necessary components are sold as overpriced accessories, such as the rear safety cover for the BSS AC panel - a vacum molded piece for $18.00, as I recall. That said, in the U.S. I'd recommend BSS as having the most complete system, available in many retail outlets, with good value and great amnufacturer support. See link. jv p.s. if there's interest, I'll post pics of my complete electrical distribution system upgrade.
I've spent quite a lot of time on this issue, and finally settled on Blue Sea Systems. The reason is as much availability of components and support from the manufacturer as it is utility. I looked at Marinetics and Bass as well, and, of course, evaluated them in terms of the original OEM panel. First, let me state in no uncertain terms that the original OEM panel on my 1984 Catalina 36, which I think was made by Seaward (not sure) is a piece of junk; a fire waiting to happen. In fact, there was a burnt switch on mine which didn't work, and the fuse was still O.K. - though I don't know the history before I got the boat. The panel has no buss bars of any kind, uses daisy-chained spade connectors to distribute power and ground, and has the fuse holders and switches hot-glued to the back of the panel. The wire is not marine grade. The new panels I've look at are much, much better, but they all have some annoying functional characteristics. One that stands out is the extreme inconvenience of changing a circuit breaker once the panel is all populated and wired; on the BSS panels, it requires removing either all of the breaker mounting screws, or removing the positive bus from all the breakers. Not something you want to face in an emergency or heavy seas. Probably should not be done "hot." Also, some relatively cheap-to-make and necessary components are sold as overpriced accessories, such as the rear safety cover for the BSS AC panel - a vacum molded piece for $18.00, as I recall. That said, in the U.S. I'd recommend BSS as having the most complete system, available in many retail outlets, with good value and great amnufacturer support. See link. jv p.s. if there's interest, I'll post pics of my complete electrical distribution system upgrade.
photo
I really must take some more pics, but here's one showing the new panel before I finished all of the surrounding woodwork.
I really must take some more pics, but here's one showing the new panel before I finished all of the surrounding woodwork.
Thanks John!
John, Thanks for the advice! I also did a little more research and traded emails with the folks at BEP. It seems that the breakers used on the BEP panel are the same as the Blue Sea's panel (the B Series breakers). So... since the circuit breakers will be available, I think I'm going to go ahead with the BEP system. I like the integrated digital volt/amp meter that comes on their 20 position panel. Another interesting feature of the BEP panel that I like is that the negative bus is external to the panel with just one large connection back to the panel. This may help clean up the wiring a bit. Anything has got to be better than the factory panel!! On this original piece of junk, when one "breaker" blows you either have to replace the panel or at least disassemble the entire thing.
They just have a fuse soldered to the circuit board. Thanks again for the advice and the pics. I'll add a follow-up post after I get the panel installed and let you know how it went. Troy
John, Thanks for the advice! I also did a little more research and traded emails with the folks at BEP. It seems that the breakers used on the BEP panel are the same as the Blue Sea's panel (the B Series breakers). So... since the circuit breakers will be available, I think I'm going to go ahead with the BEP system. I like the integrated digital volt/amp meter that comes on their 20 position panel. Another interesting feature of the BEP panel that I like is that the negative bus is external to the panel with just one large connection back to the panel. This may help clean up the wiring a bit. Anything has got to be better than the factory panel!! On this original piece of junk, when one "breaker" blows you either have to replace the panel or at least disassemble the entire thing.
They just have a fuse soldered to the circuit board. Thanks again for the advice and the pics. I'll add a follow-up post after I get the panel installed and let you know how it went. TroyGood luck
Troy, Have fun! I looked at the BEP site, its nice looking stuff. I like the simplicity of the ground bus that you mention. I put a large ground bus bar near my house batteries that I ground everything to, and I ran a cable to the panel. The BSS panels have a ground bus per panel unit (mine is five panel units wide), as well as a green-wire bus.
Troy, Have fun! I looked at the BEP site, its nice looking stuff. I like the simplicity of the ground bus that you mention. I put a large ground bus bar near my house batteries that I ground everything to, and I ran a cable to the panel. The BSS panels have a ground bus per panel unit (mine is five panel units wide), as well as a green-wire bus.
John, Can I get a parts list from you?
John, Nice work on the panel. I am interested in doing something similar for my 86 C-36. What were the panels that you ordered and what were the steps you took to install them? I already have a Link 10 monitor. Do you know of options without the voltmeter and ammeter? This would make a great how-to article for the Catalina 36 web site. Thanks for your help. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
John, Nice work on the panel. I am interested in doing something similar for my 86 C-36. What were the panels that you ordered and what were the steps you took to install them? I already have a Link 10 monitor. Do you know of options without the voltmeter and ammeter? This would make a great how-to article for the Catalina 36 web site. Thanks for your help. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
Parts
Les, Here's the overview; perhaps I'll write this out in detail soon. BSS panels used, left ot right are: 8098 AC 5 pos. CB panel 8081 DC 5 pos. CB panel 8083 DC CB panel w/ battery switch 8023 DC 8 pos. CB panel I also bought backlight kits, more circuit breakers, switches (on-off-auto) for bilge pumps, etc. I removed the old panel from the frame and had to open up the teak frame just a bit in width. I routed a new edge on the outside with the shaper (you could use a router). I made rectangular aluminum tabs that are screwed to the rebate on the back of the frame to line up with the mounting holes of the panels, and attached the panels using the provided self tapping screws. The panels can be removed individually from the front, though this isn't practical or useful once wired. The frame still hinges down as per the original. One tip: get a good ratchet cripmer ($47 at West; $17 at a good auto parts chain store) and use good quality cripm-on ring terminals (Ancor) and marine wire (also Ancor). There's a lot more to this project, but that's all I can muster at the moment. jv
Les, Here's the overview; perhaps I'll write this out in detail soon. BSS panels used, left ot right are: 8098 AC 5 pos. CB panel 8081 DC 5 pos. CB panel 8083 DC CB panel w/ battery switch 8023 DC 8 pos. CB panel I also bought backlight kits, more circuit breakers, switches (on-off-auto) for bilge pumps, etc. I removed the old panel from the frame and had to open up the teak frame just a bit in width. I routed a new edge on the outside with the shaper (you could use a router). I made rectangular aluminum tabs that are screwed to the rebate on the back of the frame to line up with the mounting holes of the panels, and attached the panels using the provided self tapping screws. The panels can be removed individually from the front, though this isn't practical or useful once wired. The frame still hinges down as per the original. One tip: get a good ratchet cripmer ($47 at West; $17 at a good auto parts chain store) and use good quality cripm-on ring terminals (Ancor) and marine wire (also Ancor). There's a lot more to this project, but that's all I can muster at the moment. jv
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