The old heater "blew up" over the weekend. It appears the pressure relief valve was rusted shut, and the tank was so rusted, there was a loud pop, and a few gallons of water came rushing down to the bilge. Electric wasn't on, water wasn't hot, just the fresh water pump for about a minute........anyway.... I know there's plenty in the archives, but I didn't find the answers to the following questions. 1) Is there anything I should be wary of when cutting the tank? ( glass lined tank is FIBERglass, right? ) 2) Easier to cut horizontally or vertically? Thanks.
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C
coleman brydon
more info needed
I as assuming you can access the tank from the port quarterberth. Did the tank burst or just the pressure control valve. If the valve, can it be replaced? My tank looks like a miniature water heater. I assumed it is galvanized steel underneath the fiberglass insulation. I don't think electric codes would permit a fiberglass tank. If you cut the outside tank and remove the fiberglass (wear gloves) you might be able to disconnect and remove the tank itself throught the access panel. I would certrainly try to replace the pressure relief valve first. coleman b ps I am sure the outside skin has rusted out around the bottom but this does not necessarily mean the tank is not still solid.
I as assuming you can access the tank from the port quarterberth. Did the tank burst or just the pressure control valve. If the valve, can it be replaced? My tank looks like a miniature water heater. I assumed it is galvanized steel underneath the fiberglass insulation. I don't think electric codes would permit a fiberglass tank. If you cut the outside tank and remove the fiberglass (wear gloves) you might be able to disconnect and remove the tank itself throught the access panel. I would certrainly try to replace the pressure relief valve first. coleman b ps I am sure the outside skin has rusted out around the bottom but this does not necessarily mean the tank is not still solid.
Easy way out!
John: One of the fellows in our harbor just remove his last year. They just got a sawzall and started hacking. He replaced it with an electric 2.5 gal unit. The older Hunters have raw water cooling so they do not generate enough heat to heat a water heater anyway. Obviously if you have a newer engine with fresh water cooling you may want to replace it with a fresh water loop.
John: One of the fellows in our harbor just remove his last year. They just got a sawzall and started hacking. He replaced it with an electric 2.5 gal unit. The older Hunters have raw water cooling so they do not generate enough heat to heat a water heater anyway. Obviously if you have a newer engine with fresh water cooling you may want to replace it with a fresh water loop.
J
John
clarification
It's blown. Water comes out the bottom, not the relief or supply lines. Thing is completely rusted to bits anyway, I never intended to use it for fear of electical problems ( although the previous owner did ). It's in the starboard cockpit locker. I ask about the "glass lines" because it says that on the side of the tank. Looks like the Raritan 1700 wich is also "glass lined". Steve, when you say "started hacking" I assume there was no method to the madness?? Cut every which way? My concern is that there are pipes, or solid elements inside and aroung the tank that will make it much harder to cut through depending on where I cut. For now I'm just going to get it out, and connect the supply lines together so I can have cold water. I will likely replace with one of the Ariston 4 or 6 gallon models unless anyone has a follow up from the archives?? Thanks for all your help!
It's blown. Water comes out the bottom, not the relief or supply lines. Thing is completely rusted to bits anyway, I never intended to use it for fear of electical problems ( although the previous owner did ). It's in the starboard cockpit locker. I ask about the "glass lines" because it says that on the side of the tank. Looks like the Raritan 1700 wich is also "glass lined". Steve, when you say "started hacking" I assume there was no method to the madness?? Cut every which way? My concern is that there are pipes, or solid elements inside and aroung the tank that will make it much harder to cut through depending on where I cut. For now I'm just going to get it out, and connect the supply lines together so I can have cold water. I will likely replace with one of the Ariston 4 or 6 gallon models unless anyone has a follow up from the archives?? Thanks for all your help!
Sawzall CUTZALL.
John: The sawzall will cut anything that is in there so cutting the heating element is not a big deal. You should have the tank completely disconnected so it will not be an issue. You just need to cut enough to get the pieces out through the opening. My friend used one these Ariston tanks too. I thought he said that the 4 gal was too large to fit through the opening (I may be mistaken)
John: The sawzall will cut anything that is in there so cutting the heating element is not a big deal. You should have the tank completely disconnected so it will not be an issue. You just need to cut enough to get the pieces out through the opening. My friend used one these Ariston tanks too. I thought he said that the 4 gal was too large to fit through the opening (I may be mistaken)
J
John
Sawzall it is!
Thanks Steve. Sawzall it is! I havn't really looked into a new one yet, so I'm not sure on what will fit. I may locate a new tank elsewhere for an easier fit. Maybe under the sink, or under the stove ( might not be smart.... ). I was also thinking about an instant heater, with a separate insulated holding tank in an easy location, say 6-10 gallons under the starboard settee with a set of bypasses that let you fill the tank or use direct. Any thoughts on that?? Thanks again, I'll let you know how it went.
Thanks Steve. Sawzall it is! I havn't really looked into a new one yet, so I'm not sure on what will fit. I may locate a new tank elsewhere for an easier fit. Maybe under the sink, or under the stove ( might not be smart.... ). I was also thinking about an instant heater, with a separate insulated holding tank in an easy location, say 6-10 gallons under the starboard settee with a set of bypasses that let you fill the tank or use direct. Any thoughts on that?? Thanks again, I'll let you know how it went.
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