Cutting fiber glass

[caguy]

Found a Multi-max video cutting fiberglass.

Ok, here is a video of the Multi-max tool on fiberglass. I was going to make one my self but found one on youtube.
Note the small amount of airborne dust. You may want to use eye protection but you can leave your space suit in the closet.
Not shown is how cleanly it cuts gel coat without chipping or taping.
The $30 Harbor Freight copy works just as well and takes the inexpensive attachments. The way less expensive HF attachments will not fit the Multimax tool. Something to consider when buying the more expensive Multi-max.
The Fein may be better, who knows, who can afford one?

 

[Freedom77]

Question what is the best tool to cut the fibre glass

When I cut out the PIA galley in our V-25 I used and angle grinder. Like a hot knife through butter. Fair Winds and Full Sails...

 

[Jeff]

When installing my A/C and Stereo Speakers I used a jig saw with a carbide grit blade. It had no problem and it lasted a long time. You can get them at the McMaster Carr website for under $3.00. They have them in fine, medium and course grades. The use of masking tape is also advised. http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[Mic Jones]

Thanks every one. There are some good ideas many of which I used depending on clearance between trim and hull/ballast tank also head room under cockpit area. I haven't touched my toes with my fore head in years. Having to straighten up afterward proved interesting.

Now the object of this excercise a leaking ballast tank which is now at a serious stage that I need help with and I'm starting a new posting under 'Ballast Tank Leak".

Thanks again
Mic

 

[Mic Jones]

Ok, here is a video of the Multi-max tool on fiberglass. I was going to make one my self but found one on youtube.
Note the small amount of airborne dust. You may want to use eye protection but you can leave your space suit in the closet.
Not shown is how cleanly it cuts gel coat without chipping or taping.
The $30 Harbor Freight copy works just as well and takes the inexpensive attachments. The way less expensive HF attachments will not fit the Multimax tool. Something to consider when buying the more expensive Multi-max.
The Fein may be better, who knows, who can afford one?

Never seen one before but will get one in order to carry on with this job. See new posting under Ballast Tank Leak
Thanks Mic

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

I have found cutting discs on the angle grinder to work best on straight line cuts and a rotary burr on the Dremel for any work with curves. I have not tried the dremel disks but they may be OK on more gradual curves.

I realize you already may have finished but for future reference or any one that reads this.... Its turning out that my dremel is the one tool I would not under ANY circumstances want to leave behind. I got some of those silver cutting disk and the fast change mandrel. WOW I love it. I have used it to bevel wood, trim socket holders down to fit in side my tool box and cut out the fiberglass to fit the companion way on the v 222. LOVE IT! I don;t worry about using it on ANYTHING if it is slim enough for the blade to get hrough. The other cuting disk I notice shatter if your hand slip but the silver disk seem more tolerant and a lot stronger.


My 2 cents :dance:


Barb

 

[Cruiser1]

I got some of those silver cutting disk and the fast change mandrel. WOW I love it.

My 2 cents :dance:

Thanks for that feedback Barb. My Dremel look-a-like came with 3 disks varying from 20-25mm in diameter (one wire brush, one fibre brush and one solid brown/black emery type disk). What diameter are these 'silver' disks and are they exclusively a Dremel part? Is there a tiny saw frame (circular saw type) attachement you can get for them to fit in?

I am only asking about the saw frame as it would be very good for cutting very straight lines. I imagine with the Dremel disks being so thin they would cut through fibreglass very quickly.

 

[Mic Jones]

I spent nearly 4 weeks of sailing time to seal the leaks on the ballast tank. I had to cut out most of the aft birth area above the tank Then work out the structure of the top of the tank. I discovered two main layers of fibre glass. A top one of course cloth for strength and one under of fine cloth for sealing the water in. Water could be seen between the layers . There were several areas were it leaked out into the boat (green dots on photo) after cutting some of this top layer with the angle grinder and masonry blade being careful no to touch the lower sealing layer I found that the lower layer had separated from the hull about 2 feet each side from the rear of the tank. Red lines in the photo. I repaired this with several layers of fine cloth covering the whole area over the top of the course cloth. Tested with a full rank with food colouring (coloring) and Talc powder.

DON"T USE BUILDERS CHALK IT GETS OVER EVERYTHING AND TOUGH TO CLEAN UP AS SOON AS WATER GETS UNDER IT HALF OF IT FLOATS AWAY.UGH.

The two green dots fore and aft of the dagger board trunk where it attaches to the lower hull were leaking into the trunk from the tank and to the outside. Misleading leak. As the water leaked into the boat the trunk leak topped up the tank giving the illusion that the water was coming from some where other than the tank. I cut a hole in the tank under the sink area to expose the base of the trunk. Fibre glassed all around it and same on the out side. ( raised the boat on a rear blocks with the trailer jack to gain access outside)

Cosmetics ---manyana (splg?)----a sheet of ply over the aft birth Patched up the 18 inch square hole under the sink Mast up back on the water to catch up. I have had some good sailing with several days out at a time. Also some leak testing weather that flexed everything. Not one leak from above or below.

My fibre glassing is not pretty as its not my trade. So will get local help or advise when putting the aft trim back in and maintaining the trays which are all cut up.

How did this happen? The dagger board had to be replace when I bought the boat a few years ago. It obviously had grounded out a few times causing the trunk damage. The tank separating from the hull. I think it must have been left in the water during freeze up, this is the only way an even separation of nearly 4 feet could have happened

Thanks every one for the inputs many of which I used. I almost gave it to my wife as a flower planter.

Mic

ps Yellow dots are where PO drilled a base for a camper table right into the ballast tank.

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

Thanks for that feedback Barb. My Dremel look-a-like came with 3 disks varying from 20-25mm in diameter (one wire brush, one fibre brush and one solid brown/black emery type disk). What diameter are these 'silver' disks and are they exclusively a Dremel part? Is there a tiny saw frame (circular saw type) attachement you can get for them to fit in?

I am only asking about the saw frame as it would be very good for cutting very straight lines. I imagine with the Dremel disks being so thin they would cut through fibreglass very quickly.

To the best of my knowledge the ez lock cutters ( silver) are an exclusively dremel product. I dont think it has been around long enough to have copy cats out there. As I understand it some of the look a like can use dremel attachments and accessories so it might work with your tool.
I have zero experience with non dremel items so I cannot help you with that part. What I bought was the regular starter kit available locally. Here is a link to that.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-...LRVA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1319398029&sr=8-3

It uses the regular collette is all I know to say in answer to your question. I know dremel has a LOT of accessories for all sorts of uses . .

IMHO I think it is worth its weight in gold for cutting any thing thin enough for the blade. As I was looking up that link I noticed Dremel has opened an entire line around the EZ lock aspect. it might be worth checking out .


The dremel i have is model 300. it kind of pricey but its because they include all kinds of accessories with it .

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-300-N-...5GAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319399003&sr=8-2


I noticed they do sell an attachment to be used like a circular saw but it is for the multi pro. I dont know if it would be compatible with any thing else. best guess is contact your tools site and see if they know. or maybe get one and if it dont fit return it. You might want to check the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-670-Mi...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


I did notice several months back ace hardware and a package of metal mini circular saw blades but I did not see them when i checked here last month s, Dont know if that will help you any.
An idea that occurs to me that would be fairly cheap to test . depending on what size your attachments are at the stem going into the tool, you might be able to just get some collettes and use the dremel line that way.

sorry im not more help on this part.

Hope you find something that is really nice to work with , if you do be sure to let us know .

Me? I'm going to check out that ez lock line further. I LIKE not having to mess with that danged wrench every time i need to change something.
Barb

 

[MrBill_FLL]

One of those dodads the cut by moving back and forth work great with little dust.

I wish I knew what they are called, better yet I wish I had one.

the original was from Fein called a 'MultiMaster'

http://www.amazon.com/Fein-FMM-250Q-Select-Variable-Speed/dp/product-description/B000U8W4VU



but I got the cheap HF brand... we'll see....

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

I gt to looking and found this. blade guard for dremel saw a. link to metal mini circular saw blades if you scroll down.

http://www.gyrostools.com/p373/GyrosGuard-Safety-Shield-Kit,-1-1/2"-Dia.-Capacity/product_info.html

 

[Cruiser1]

To the best of my knowledge the ez lock cutters ( silver) are an exclusively dremel product........I got to looking and found this. blade guard for dremel saw a. link to metal mini circular saw blades if you scroll down.
http://www.gyrostools.com/p373/Gyros...duct_info.html

Thanks for the feedback Barb. I will have a look at those blade guards although I see someone reporting in one of your links that it is not all that easy to see where you are going with the guard on. Sounds like those ez lock silver blades are the go!

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

WOW!!!!! I'm glad you got it fixed!!!! iT LOOKS LIKE ONE WHOPPER OF A HEADACHE!!!!!

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

The dremel i have is model 300.

I noticed they do sell an attachment to be used like a circular saw but it is for the multi pro. I dont know if it would be compatible with any thing else. best guess is contact your tools site and see if they know. or maybe get one and if it dont fit return it. You might want to check the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-670-Mi...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


Barb

Just in case any one is interested......
i EMAILED dREMEL ASKING IF MY 300 WAS COMPATIBLE WITH THE MINI SAW ATTaCHMENT 670. tHEY SAY IT IS. sorry about caps

 

[UseDaGreyMatter]

Thanks for the feedback Barb. I will have a look at those blade guards although I see someone reporting in one of your links that it is not all that easy to see where you are going with the guard on. Sounds like those ez lock silver blades are the go!

Yeaqh. I suppose it just depends on what you are doing. Ive never been in that situation so Have not had to worry about it.

Barb