cutless bearing

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K

kevin

i have a 91 hunter 30t and i need to change the cutless bearing, is there a procedure written up for this anywhere
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Have it done!

Kevin: If you boat is on the hard and in a yard, you can just have the yard do it. It takes a special tool to press the bearing out of the strut. They can probably get it done in 60-90 mins. and then about $60 for the bearing.
 
R

Roy Mosteller

I Agree

Steve is right on the mark when he suggests having this done by a pro when you are out of the water. I had the boat yard replace the bearing on my 1991 30T the last time I had a bottom job. I was charged only one hour labor so the job was relatively inexpensive and worth every penny as far as I was concerned.
 
Dec 3, 2003
2,101
Hunter Legend 37 Portsmouth, RI
Some things leave well enough alone...

...and the cutless bearing is one of 'em. They have the tools, know-how, time and guarantees...and the knee pads.
 
Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
It is simple and easy

The bearing is held in place with one or two setscrews which you may or may not find easily. They may be painted over or covered with growth. They are probably centered and at top and or sides. A file or sand papar may help you locate them. Once found, you may or may not be able to loosen them. Regardless, it is possible to force the bearing out with them in place - I did. I used a pipe the same size as the bearing, a length of all-thread, another pipe larger than the bearing, some large washers and nuts on both ends. Use the smaller pipe to push out the bearing into the larger pipe by tightening the nuts on the ends of the all-thread. If you loosen the setscrews, you can just tap it with a hammer and it may come out that way. In fact, I would try that first - just do not overdo it. When you put in the new one, it may just push in or you might use the all-thread method or a large clamp to press it. Whatever way you do it, figure on replacing the setscrews. It has taken me longer to write this than it did to do the job. It is not rocket science.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
One more thing,,

Cutlass bearings should last and last. For a really long time too. :) Don't forget to check your alignment.
 
B

Bob

check this too.

I have mine on the hard right now. I am replacing the shaft, coupling, cutless bearing, installing a dripless seal. However upon disassembly I found the strut has electrolysis occuring under the paint and the stern tube is very thin. the new stern tube and strut were like $200 and the strut came with the cutless bearing already installed. this way everything from the tranny back will be new and I nor the next owner (when I get my 38)will ever have to worry again.
 
P

Pete

Bummer

Wow I wish this post happened two weeks ago. I just had the yard replace mine. $307 just in labor! The yard stated the best way to replace it without compromising the alignment is to use a hydraulic tool. Did I get robbed? On a similar thread, they also billed me for repacking the stuffing box...they don't have keys to boat nor interior access. Perhaps I sound stupid but how'd they do that? Thanks.
 
Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
Pete, it is hard to say

I have seen some boats which require you to pull the engine to remove the prop shaft. Unless you have one of those, you probably were robbed. Can you provide a good discription of the culprits?
 
Jun 4, 2004
1,087
Mainship Piliot 34 Punta Gorda
Not So Easy

I replaced mine about 4 years ago. It was a major project. I had a pipe about the size of the bearing and hammered on it - no luck. I eventually had to cut the old one out using a hacksaw blade.
 
J

John

How do you know ?

The question that begs to be asked is how do you determine this thing needs to be replaced? There has to be a good reason taking into account the cost, time and complexity that you guys have been talking about. Thanks
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Simple, takes only a second.

When new, the rubber of the bearing has raised ridges that contact the shaft and hold the shaft in place. The lower part of the rubber lets lubricating water into the bearing. Picture a square sine wave. When the shaft is no longer contacting the rubber all the way around its' circumference, then that's a good time to replace it. But also look for uneven wear. That's a sign of mis-alignment. Oh hell, check the alignment anyway. These bearings last so long if the shaft is properly aligned that a worn bearing is screaming 'fix your boat'.
 
P

Pete

Knocking sound

Dennis - thanks, makes me feel a little better. I was pretty sure it was more than just 15 min job. John - what tipped me off at the end of last season was a slight knocking/vibration when I first fired up the engine and let it idle. You could only really feel or hear it if you stood pretty much on the transom. Even the slightest increase in RPMs made it go away and it never seemed to happen when idling after we returned, just at startup. Was easy to see the bearing needed replacement after the yard pulled it and they confirmed. Thanks again all.
 
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