After three days the cutless bearing is only out about one inch. I built the tool to press it out, and it still resists all efforts. My 83 catlina 30 has a 1 inch shaft, no set screw can be found in the strut and I'm thinking of taking a torch to the strut, but worried that this may melt the rubber. Can anyone offer any ideas? I'm letting it soak for a few days in liquid wrench before I try again.
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Bob
Cut the CUTLASS
I was told by Conneys (in your back yard) that there is only one way to get the cutlass bearing out of my 1988-30 for less then a kings ransom. They are going to cut the prop shaft, drive it out of the bearing, and then cut the bearing with a hack saw. It going to cost me a shaft, but they say this is the eaisiest & cheapest way.
I was told by Conneys (in your back yard) that there is only one way to get the cutlass bearing out of my 1988-30 for less then a kings ransom. They are going to cut the prop shaft, drive it out of the bearing, and then cut the bearing with a hack saw. It going to cost me a shaft, but they say this is the eaisiest & cheapest way.
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John
Coneys
Yes I keep my boat at Coneys and they quoted me over $1000. They cut the shaft. Removing the shaft (Which I did on another boat is rough as well)
Yes I keep my boat at Coneys and they quoted me over $1000. They cut the shaft. Removing the shaft (Which I did on another boat is rough as well)
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John Visser
A few observations
First, I haven't done this job myself yet, 'though I will this winter or next spring. Mine is a 1984 C-36, and i don't know when it was last done. It needs it - you can hear the vibrations when under power. There is indeed a setscrew in mine, but I only found it after scraping the bottom paint off with the back edge of a steak knife. I will check the other side for one, too. The screw was completely rotted out - nothing left but red dust. I can see the brass of the cutlass bearing. I am pulling the engine this year, so I have access to one end of the shaft without dropping the rudder. I plan on removing the shaft after pulling the prop and thoroughly cleaning the shaft so it slides through the stuffing box. I will then bring it home and put it on the lathe to clean it up nicely, and spray it with clear coat, masking for hte zinc. I may send the prop for repitching (suggestions?). For the cutlass bearing, I will cut through the brass shell with a hacksaw, and collapse it to remove. I'll then make sure the strut bore is clean and smooth. I'll measure the bore carefully, as well as the new bearing, and make sure I have a proper press fit. I may then hone the bore a bit. Finally, with a little lube, I'll press the bearing in. I plan on making a fitted hardwood drift for tapping it in. I hope I don't have ot press it with a lot of force. That's the plan.
First, I haven't done this job myself yet, 'though I will this winter or next spring. Mine is a 1984 C-36, and i don't know when it was last done. It needs it - you can hear the vibrations when under power. There is indeed a setscrew in mine, but I only found it after scraping the bottom paint off with the back edge of a steak knife. I will check the other side for one, too. The screw was completely rotted out - nothing left but red dust. I can see the brass of the cutlass bearing. I am pulling the engine this year, so I have access to one end of the shaft without dropping the rudder. I plan on removing the shaft after pulling the prop and thoroughly cleaning the shaft so it slides through the stuffing box. I will then bring it home and put it on the lathe to clean it up nicely, and spray it with clear coat, masking for hte zinc. I may send the prop for repitching (suggestions?). For the cutlass bearing, I will cut through the brass shell with a hacksaw, and collapse it to remove. I'll then make sure the strut bore is clean and smooth. I'll measure the bore carefully, as well as the new bearing, and make sure I have a proper press fit. I may then hone the bore a bit. Finally, with a little lube, I'll press the bearing in. I plan on making a fitted hardwood drift for tapping it in. I hope I don't have ot press it with a lot of force. That's the plan.
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Stan Rogacevicz
Hot and Cold
John, Heating the strut with a propane torch and cooling the bearing in soapy ice water worked well for me last spring. It went in halfway almost by itself and the rest with Very Light wooden mallet taps. I don't know how much difference the hot/cold expansion/contracton really makes but it went in Eeeeasy. Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
John, Heating the strut with a propane torch and cooling the bearing in soapy ice water worked well for me last spring. It went in halfway almost by itself and the rest with Very Light wooden mallet taps. I don't know how much difference the hot/cold expansion/contracton really makes but it went in Eeeeasy. Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
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Allen Schweitzer
Cut the Prop Shaft??
I recently had my yard replace my cutlass bearing & they only charged me $375 without having to cut the shaft, and this place has a reputation for high prices. Pulling the bearing, if you have the right tools, isn't too tough of a job. If you don't have the right tools, it's a real pain. I wonder if your yard is charging you an arm & a leg because they don't have a proper puller. I'd shop around for a better deal. Just my 2 cents. Allen Schweitzer s/v Drambuie C-30 Hull #632
I recently had my yard replace my cutlass bearing & they only charged me $375 without having to cut the shaft, and this place has a reputation for high prices. Pulling the bearing, if you have the right tools, isn't too tough of a job. If you don't have the right tools, it's a real pain. I wonder if your yard is charging you an arm & a leg because they don't have a proper puller. I'd shop around for a better deal. Just my 2 cents. Allen Schweitzer s/v Drambuie C-30 Hull #632
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John visser
Cold and cold
Stan, I think heating the strut might make the strut bore smaller - but I agree that chilling the bearing would help things. You have to chill it dramatically, though, I guess, adn since it has a very small thermal mass, you'd have to be quick, and not generate much friction when you push it in. A hot strut would make this tough. However, I respect that you have actually done it, and I am merely speculating. jv
Stan, I think heating the strut might make the strut bore smaller - but I agree that chilling the bearing would help things. You have to chill it dramatically, though, I guess, adn since it has a very small thermal mass, you'd have to be quick, and not generate much friction when you push it in. A hot strut would make this tough. However, I respect that you have actually done it, and I am merely speculating. jv
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Stan Rogacevicz
Cold Cold Better?
John, The method I tried was mentioned out on the Catalina list and in re-thinking the bore diameter should shrink if the strut metal expands as you say. I allways picture the whole thing expanding outward which is probably wrong but it sure went in easy. Since this was done (twice actually because I deformed the first one with the set screws performing one of my Best Stupid Human Tricks) on cold and windy days maybe the strut didn't stay that hot. The bearing was packed in ice and soaped up with some of the ice melt. Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
John, The method I tried was mentioned out on the Catalina list and in re-thinking the bore diameter should shrink if the strut metal expands as you say. I allways picture the whole thing expanding outward which is probably wrong but it sure went in easy. Since this was done (twice actually because I deformed the first one with the set screws performing one of my Best Stupid Human Tricks) on cold and windy days maybe the strut didn't stay that hot. The bearing was packed in ice and soaped up with some of the ice melt. Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
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