I have a 27' 1984 Hunter that needs a cutless bearing replacement. I asked the yard to replace without removing the shaft. They called and said that they must remove the shaft and estimated the cost at $795.00. This seems a little over the top !. I thought a well equipped boat yard would be able to press out the bearing without removing the shaft. Am I wrong about this?.
Cutless Bearing replacement
- Thread starter Tom23400
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Tom..........
maybe i missed something in the past but i have never heard of this before. Besides, when i last replaced my cutlass i wanted to pull my shaft to check for runout. I made a puller but it still took a lot of pressure to get the old cutlass out. I can,t imagine having to get mine out with the shaft still in place. Still $795 sounds like a lot for what they are gonna do. Frank
maybe i missed something in the past but i have never heard of this before. Besides, when i last replaced my cutlass i wanted to pull my shaft to check for runout. I made a puller but it still took a lot of pressure to get the old cutlass out. I can,t imagine having to get mine out with the shaft still in place. Still $795 sounds like a lot for what they are gonna do. Frank
$795 is about right ......
Cost a good new bearing is ~$100 + $5 for new flax packing .... that leaves 10 hours labor (typical now is $70/hr.) Open/separate coupling, jack coupler off shaft, remove shaft (dress shaft if necessary, replace if severely galled), cut/press out old bearing, clean and dress bore, press in new bearing, reinstall ahsft and coupling, realign engine, repack stuffing box, test-drive for vibrations. For a good mechanic, 10 hours is fast. Always best to pull the shaft and inspect the 'running' surfaces for adverse wear, scores, pits, etc. The down side with an 24 year old boat is the coupler 'may' be so 'frozen onto the shaft that it may need to be cut and new shaft (+$400-$600) 'may' be needed. If the coupler is solidly frozen to the shaft, then its a good idea to press out the old cutless without pulling the shaft ... and simply 'pray' that the shaft surface is OK. If you're handy with wrenches, etc. all of the above can be done DIY. The hardest part usually is getting that coupler off the shaft, especially if the 'connection' is not a tapered one ... the biggest problem usually is that rust/corrosion has formed inside a 'straight connection' and once you 'release' it and clean it the coupler will be too loose, etc. to go back on correctly, etc. Most 'production' boats have 'straight connection' (non-tapered) coupler to shaft joints .... so pulling such a cutless without shaft removal may be a BIG plus. Some marinas use specialized large hydraulic presses that can remove a cutless without removing the shaft .... if a DIY is not in your future you may want to seek out a yard that has such a 'press'
Cost a good new bearing is ~$100 + $5 for new flax packing .... that leaves 10 hours labor (typical now is $70/hr.) Open/separate coupling, jack coupler off shaft, remove shaft (dress shaft if necessary, replace if severely galled), cut/press out old bearing, clean and dress bore, press in new bearing, reinstall ahsft and coupling, realign engine, repack stuffing box, test-drive for vibrations. For a good mechanic, 10 hours is fast. Always best to pull the shaft and inspect the 'running' surfaces for adverse wear, scores, pits, etc. The down side with an 24 year old boat is the coupler 'may' be so 'frozen onto the shaft that it may need to be cut and new shaft (+$400-$600) 'may' be needed. If the coupler is solidly frozen to the shaft, then its a good idea to press out the old cutless without pulling the shaft ... and simply 'pray' that the shaft surface is OK. If you're handy with wrenches, etc. all of the above can be done DIY. The hardest part usually is getting that coupler off the shaft, especially if the 'connection' is not a tapered one ... the biggest problem usually is that rust/corrosion has formed inside a 'straight connection' and once you 'release' it and clean it the coupler will be too loose, etc. to go back on correctly, etc. Most 'production' boats have 'straight connection' (non-tapered) coupler to shaft joints .... so pulling such a cutless without shaft removal may be a BIG plus. Some marinas use specialized large hydraulic presses that can remove a cutless without removing the shaft .... if a DIY is not in your future you may want to seek out a yard that has such a 'press'
That is a lot of $$$$
You can buy a commercial bearing removal tool for about $400.00 which will do the job on about a 1/2 hour. Google Strut Pro. That will work on multiple sizes You only need one size and you can buy separate components to get the price down. Also google Cutless bearing removal tool and look for a site from a Catalina 310 owner. He made a tool for his 1 in. shaft and a 4" strut length and a bearing OD of 1 and 1/4 in. bearing. That is a pretty standard size for 25-36 ft. sailbaots.It will probably cost about $25.00 to make. Pretty simple to do. By the way, the bearing can be had for less than $50.00. Try Reddin Marine supply.. Do a little research and you can save yourself about $650.00.
You can buy a commercial bearing removal tool for about $400.00 which will do the job on about a 1/2 hour. Google Strut Pro. That will work on multiple sizes You only need one size and you can buy separate components to get the price down. Also google Cutless bearing removal tool and look for a site from a Catalina 310 owner. He made a tool for his 1 in. shaft and a 4" strut length and a bearing OD of 1 and 1/4 in. bearing. That is a pretty standard size for 25-36 ft. sailbaots.It will probably cost about $25.00 to make. Pretty simple to do. By the way, the bearing can be had for less than $50.00. Try Reddin Marine supply.. Do a little research and you can save yourself about $650.00.
Jeff ... that is a 'wonderful' and simple tool for
DIY bearing removal and installation for a strut. Also easy to make the tool DIY if you have a drill press, large enough drill dia. and a few 'taps'. I wish I could use something like that .... I dont have a 'strut'. www.strutpro.com/
DIY bearing removal and installation for a strut. Also easy to make the tool DIY if you have a drill press, large enough drill dia. and a few 'taps'. I wish I could use something like that .... I dont have a 'strut'. www.strutpro.com/
Penny Wise Pound Foolish
I may be missing something. Rich's comments are right on. This job has the potential to spiral financially out of control. Unless you are very, very handy the chances of wrecking something seem high to me. The $795.00 quote may look cheap if something went wrong. Why would you not rent a bearing puller instead of spending $400.00 on one which you may hardly ever use again? I have also seen a number of badly scored shafts, a couple that needed replacement.
I may be missing something. Rich's comments are right on. This job has the potential to spiral financially out of control. Unless you are very, very handy the chances of wrecking something seem high to me. The $795.00 quote may look cheap if something went wrong. Why would you not rent a bearing puller instead of spending $400.00 on one which you may hardly ever use again? I have also seen a number of badly scored shafts, a couple that needed replacement.
YIKES !!!
That sounds just a little bit spendy to me !!! .... Last haulout we replaced the cutless bearing. I couldn't do it myself with the shaft in place. The yard charged $65 labor to remove and replace the cutless bearing with the shaft in place... WELL WORTH IT !!! ... I imagine that the cost has gone up a bit ... I would happily pay $100 ... But for near $800!!!!???!!!! I would expect a new shaft or prop as a bonus! Maybe a wax job too ... Maybe you look like a cash-cow to the yard manager!! MOOOOOOO!!!!
That sounds just a little bit spendy to me !!! .... Last haulout we replaced the cutless bearing. I couldn't do it myself with the shaft in place. The yard charged $65 labor to remove and replace the cutless bearing with the shaft in place... WELL WORTH IT !!! ... I imagine that the cost has gone up a bit ... I would happily pay $100 ... But for near $800!!!!???!!!! I would expect a new shaft or prop as a bonus! Maybe a wax job too ... Maybe you look like a cash-cow to the yard manager!! MOOOOOOO!!!!
If you have the time
do it yourself. I replaced mine 3 years ago on my H34. Much head scratching about how to. Didnt have a tool so wanted to remove the shaft. First alternative: remove the strut. Proved to be VERY hard to do as was bedded with probably 5200. Bolts very hard to move, gave up. Alt 2- drop rudder. Quickly rejected after digging about 6 inches and hitting a very large piece of old sidewalk. Alternative 3- raise the motor. Worked very well. 4X4 across companionway, mainsheet block and tackle. disconnect coupling ( not real easy but lots on that elsewhere in this forum) Remove top nuts on mounts, up she came. Enough play in everything else to raise just far enough to get the shaft and flange out thru the front. Of course you have to pull the prop before. That was the hardest, it had been on for 20+ years I am sure. Make sure the lift hook up is balanced so the motor goes up level and straight so you can just let it back down onto the mounts. Should need very little adjustment to get it back in alignment. Cut a strip out of the old bearing with a fine hacksaw blade ( carefully) and removed it. Cleaned up the strut hole with very fine sand paper and greased it with a bit of white grease. Froze the new bearing and carried it to the boat in ice. Warmed the strut ( not so hot you could not touch it) have a block of softwood and a hammer ready at hand. Make sure you are ready and can reach everything you need. Grab the frozen bearing and quickly shove it as far into the strut hole as possible( work from the aft end of the strut- to hard to reach the forward end). Use the wood block to tap it in the rest of the way. Gently. There you have done it
do it yourself. I replaced mine 3 years ago on my H34. Much head scratching about how to. Didnt have a tool so wanted to remove the shaft. First alternative: remove the strut. Proved to be VERY hard to do as was bedded with probably 5200. Bolts very hard to move, gave up. Alt 2- drop rudder. Quickly rejected after digging about 6 inches and hitting a very large piece of old sidewalk. Alternative 3- raise the motor. Worked very well. 4X4 across companionway, mainsheet block and tackle. disconnect coupling ( not real easy but lots on that elsewhere in this forum) Remove top nuts on mounts, up she came. Enough play in everything else to raise just far enough to get the shaft and flange out thru the front. Of course you have to pull the prop before. That was the hardest, it had been on for 20+ years I am sure. Make sure the lift hook up is balanced so the motor goes up level and straight so you can just let it back down onto the mounts. Should need very little adjustment to get it back in alignment. Cut a strip out of the old bearing with a fine hacksaw blade ( carefully) and removed it. Cleaned up the strut hole with very fine sand paper and greased it with a bit of white grease. Froze the new bearing and carried it to the boat in ice. Warmed the strut ( not so hot you could not touch it) have a block of softwood and a hammer ready at hand. Make sure you are ready and can reach everything you need. Grab the frozen bearing and quickly shove it as far into the strut hole as possible( work from the aft end of the strut- to hard to reach the forward end). Use the wood block to tap it in the rest of the way. Gently. There you have done it
on my last Hunter...
...we had to drop the rudder before we could pull the shaft. Easily a full day of labor involved. (That was an H410). You might want to call around to other boat yards to find someone who has a the right tooling to do the job with the shaft in place.
...we had to drop the rudder before we could pull the shaft. Easily a full day of labor involved. (That was an H410). You might want to call around to other boat yards to find someone who has a the right tooling to do the job with the shaft in place.
I don't think your estimate
is out of line. Last year I decided to replace my OEM nylon packing gland with a bronze one and knew I'd have to pull the shaft. Since the shaft was going to be out, I also decided to replace the cutlass bearing, which was more or less ok, but nearing the end of its natural life. Since it was winter and my boat has a strut, I just dropped the strut, decoupled the shaft (luckily that went well), and took the whole thing home to work on. The first problem was the frozen set screws in the strut. Drilled them out. I made a bearing puller somewhat like the pictures others have posted here, but had no luck moving the old bearing. I eventually slid a hack saw blade into the strut and very carefully sawed through the old bearing, pried it up, and peeled it out. I froze the new bearing to contract it a bit, lubed it with liquid detergent, and hammered it into the strut with a piece of wood and a mallet. Re-tapped the set screw holes. Brought the whole thing back to the boat, inserted the shaft, clampped on the new gland, recoupled the coupler to the trans, rebebbed the strut, and realigned the engine. I think this whole job took at least 20 hours over a number of days. Labor rates at my marina are about $85/hour so I don't think your estimate is too high.
is out of line. Last year I decided to replace my OEM nylon packing gland with a bronze one and knew I'd have to pull the shaft. Since the shaft was going to be out, I also decided to replace the cutlass bearing, which was more or less ok, but nearing the end of its natural life. Since it was winter and my boat has a strut, I just dropped the strut, decoupled the shaft (luckily that went well), and took the whole thing home to work on. The first problem was the frozen set screws in the strut. Drilled them out. I made a bearing puller somewhat like the pictures others have posted here, but had no luck moving the old bearing. I eventually slid a hack saw blade into the strut and very carefully sawed through the old bearing, pried it up, and peeled it out. I froze the new bearing to contract it a bit, lubed it with liquid detergent, and hammered it into the strut with a piece of wood and a mallet. Re-tapped the set screw holes. Brought the whole thing back to the boat, inserted the shaft, clampped on the new gland, recoupled the coupler to the trans, rebebbed the strut, and realigned the engine. I think this whole job took at least 20 hours over a number of days. Labor rates at my marina are about $85/hour so I don't think your estimate is too high.
To summarize if I , , ,
may be so presumptuous. I believe that in all the previous replies that you will find your answer. For a cheap old yankee that is an easy one. DIY and save at least $600. First remove the prop. If no rudder clearance then first remove the strut from the boat. This will give you rudder clearance and you need to remove it anyway. Then slide the strut off and take it home to remove the bearing. You will probably have to do as previously written, drill out the set screws and use a hacksaw. I saw three cuts down to the strut housing and peeled out the three bearing sections. Then I rented a bearing press to install the new one. It all took about a long morning. The other advantage is the opportunity to rebed the strut with some nice new stainless bolts and stainless fender washers.
may be so presumptuous. I believe that in all the previous replies that you will find your answer. For a cheap old yankee that is an easy one. DIY and save at least $600. First remove the prop. If no rudder clearance then first remove the strut from the boat. This will give you rudder clearance and you need to remove it anyway. Then slide the strut off and take it home to remove the bearing. You will probably have to do as previously written, drill out the set screws and use a hacksaw. I saw three cuts down to the strut housing and peeled out the three bearing sections. Then I rented a bearing press to install the new one. It all took about a long morning. The other advantage is the opportunity to rebed the strut with some nice new stainless bolts and stainless fender washers.
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