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oi33 change cutlas bearing
The OI 33 cutlass bearing was epoxied in. If you dont see ant set screws , then even if it was replaced, it was re-epoxied. Replacemet requires removal of the shaft and the rudder. Then it is a matter of breaking the old bearing loose. I had mine done by a pro about 2 years ago. When re reinstalled it he put in set screws so the next chang out w/b easier. Good luck. Bob
The OI 33 cutlass bearing was epoxied in. If you dont see ant set screws , then even if it was replaced, it was re-epoxied. Replacemet requires removal of the shaft and the rudder. Then it is a matter of breaking the old bearing loose. I had mine done by a pro about 2 years ago. When re reinstalled it he put in set screws so the next chang out w/b easier. Good luck. Bob
Whoa !!!!!!
Usually there is a set screw .... but its purpose is only to be a 'safety' lock in case the strut/housing gets too hot and the strut, etc. changes dimension because of the heat. The primary 'restraint' of a cutless or any other 'plain' bearing in a 'housing' is an 'intereference fit' or 'press fit'.... where the bearing is slightly larger than the bore into which it fits. Typically the bearing outside diameter will be approx. 0.001" per inch of bearing diameter *larger* than the bore hole into which it fits. This will cause to bearing to dimensionallly/elastically compress when its 'pressed' into the bore. This compression of the bearing forced into a smaller bore hole will generate a lot of force and keep the bearing tightly in place in the strut, etc. A bearing should NOT be epoxied in place; but, only 'pressed' into place. If you have to use epoxy to hold such a bearing inplace, it means that the bearing is too small or the bore hole is too large. To remove such a properly 'set' bearing, you will either need a 'press' to remove it OR you will have to cut the bearing (with a hacksaw, etc.) along its long axis (not through its diameter) to remove the force of compression that holds it in place. Once the bearing's compression is released you can either push it out or will need a chisel and hammer to deform (bend it/destroy it) it and then remove it To install such a bearing you will have to carefully 'press' it into the bore. The simplest way is to use a series of large strong washers and nuts on a large bolt, tighten up the nuts so that the bearing 'deforms' without 'kinking' as you force it into the bore.
Usually there is a set screw .... but its purpose is only to be a 'safety' lock in case the strut/housing gets too hot and the strut, etc. changes dimension because of the heat. The primary 'restraint' of a cutless or any other 'plain' bearing in a 'housing' is an 'intereference fit' or 'press fit'.... where the bearing is slightly larger than the bore into which it fits. Typically the bearing outside diameter will be approx. 0.001" per inch of bearing diameter *larger* than the bore hole into which it fits. This will cause to bearing to dimensionallly/elastically compress when its 'pressed' into the bore. This compression of the bearing forced into a smaller bore hole will generate a lot of force and keep the bearing tightly in place in the strut, etc. A bearing should NOT be epoxied in place; but, only 'pressed' into place. If you have to use epoxy to hold such a bearing inplace, it means that the bearing is too small or the bore hole is too large. To remove such a properly 'set' bearing, you will either need a 'press' to remove it OR you will have to cut the bearing (with a hacksaw, etc.) along its long axis (not through its diameter) to remove the force of compression that holds it in place. Once the bearing's compression is released you can either push it out or will need a chisel and hammer to deform (bend it/destroy it) it and then remove it To install such a bearing you will have to carefully 'press' it into the bore. The simplest way is to use a series of large strong washers and nuts on a large bolt, tighten up the nuts so that the bearing 'deforms' without 'kinking' as you force it into the bore.
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