- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
Don B
On my 33
Don There is a tool that can be made for pressing out the bearing. I made one but found my bearing too seized for the tool. (I wish I could remember who designed the tool to give credit) I found removing the strut to be quite easy. Just two long machine screws that were relatively excessable. Once the strut is off the boat, it is a simple matter to press out the bearing. If you're replace the shaft, I suggest getting a sawz-all and cutting the shaft right behind the flange, instead of trying to get the shaft to slide out of the flange. Hope this helps. If you want to see the drawings for the special tool, I will try to add them to this post. If unsuccessful I could e-mail them to you. Don
Don There is a tool that can be made for pressing out the bearing. I made one but found my bearing too seized for the tool. (I wish I could remember who designed the tool to give credit) I found removing the strut to be quite easy. Just two long machine screws that were relatively excessable. Once the strut is off the boat, it is a simple matter to press out the bearing. If you're replace the shaft, I suggest getting a sawz-all and cutting the shaft right behind the flange, instead of trying to get the shaft to slide out of the flange. Hope this helps. If you want to see the drawings for the special tool, I will try to add them to this post. If unsuccessful I could e-mail them to you. Don
D
Don B
another tool picture
heres another picture
heres another picture
Attachments
-
21.5 KB Views: 123
-
21.5 KB Views: 129
T
Tim McCarty
Wow, I had an '82 h27 and....
replaced my cutlass bearing....check the archives, it's quite a comical story...ended up breaking my hand (punching the boat out of frustration)...will never do it again, but........you need to drop the rudder...then, disconnect the shaft assembly and pull the shaft out...then, take a hack saw blade, and cut the old bearing out, then, have the new bearing frozen (yes, frozen...the metal will contract), and, with a C-clamp and a block of wood install the new bearing, but be VERY careful not to rupture the brass (I found out it's very sensitive to pressure)....good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
replaced my cutlass bearing....check the archives, it's quite a comical story...ended up breaking my hand (punching the boat out of frustration)...will never do it again, but........you need to drop the rudder...then, disconnect the shaft assembly and pull the shaft out...then, take a hack saw blade, and cut the old bearing out, then, have the new bearing frozen (yes, frozen...the metal will contract), and, with a C-clamp and a block of wood install the new bearing, but be VERY careful not to rupture the brass (I found out it's very sensitive to pressure)....good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
D
Don B
easier to pull strut
I suspect it might be a lot easier to pull the strut than dropping rudder and pulling the shaft. I believe you could leave the shaft in place and just slide the strut off the end.
I suspect it might be a lot easier to pull the strut than dropping rudder and pulling the shaft. I believe you could leave the shaft in place and just slide the strut off the end.
T
Tim McCarty
I'd talked to several...
with varying opinions, but, the final recomendation was from the guys at my boat yard. These guys replace cutlass bearings all the time. They seemed to think that it's actually easier dropping the rudder, and pulling the shaft. Any way you cut it, it's a pain in the behind. I suppose if I had to do it over again, I would probably just remove the strut. At least then, you would not need to replace the stuffing in the rudder and shaft.
with varying opinions, but, the final recomendation was from the guys at my boat yard. These guys replace cutlass bearings all the time. They seemed to think that it's actually easier dropping the rudder, and pulling the shaft. Any way you cut it, it's a pain in the behind. I suppose if I had to do it over again, I would probably just remove the strut. At least then, you would not need to replace the stuffing in the rudder and shaft.
M
Mike
T
Tim McCarty
- Status
- Not open for further replies.