Was just informed via a buyers survey (I'm the seller) that the cutlass bearing on my OC400 is simply GONE, and that the locking collar that holds the setscrews is no longer there. Not sure how this came about, but it may be related to the line in the prop last year. Not much use of the boat in the last 18 mo. but now I gotta get a 2 or 3000 dollars repair before I can sell. Any one else have a similar cutlass bearing problem and what was your solution?
Cutlass bearing
- Thread starter larryw
- Start date
- Status
Should be simple job
I have a 323 and I think its the same. Plastic Cutless Bearing just pushes in the end of the pipe and held in by a couple of self tapping screws. Order one from Beneteau Agent if he does not have one in stock . THe bearing is simple and has a flange to stop it going all the way in . Biggest problem was getting the old prop off . Hot Air Gun . Heat the prop its bronze so will expand more than the stainless shaft . Block of wood and a big hammer . After you have undone the prop nut which is held in place with a locking washer . Took me about an hour to fix .
I have a 323 and I think its the same. Plastic Cutless Bearing just pushes in the end of the pipe and held in by a couple of self tapping screws. Order one from Beneteau Agent if he does not have one in stock . THe bearing is simple and has a flange to stop it going all the way in . Biggest problem was getting the old prop off . Hot Air Gun . Heat the prop its bronze so will expand more than the stainless shaft . Block of wood and a big hammer . After you have undone the prop nut which is held in place with a locking washer . Took me about an hour to fix .
Yeah, what SeaMist said. That quote sounds too high, even with a short haul. I've seen this done in the yard and it took an hour or so. If the flange is torn away, you will need to hook the bearing to extract it, or drift it from the inside, and that could complicate the repair.
Seems like that tube is sticking out a long way...I know that my cutlass bearing is actually contained inside the shaft skeg. There isn't that much space between the skeg and the prop on my B323. hat really looks strange, but it may be typical of the 400.
Looks a bit of a mess .. The hole you can see is for a screw but it must have been like it a long time .. Hate to think what the shaft is like .. The tube can be removed but its not a simple job .. What about getting a local machine shop to make you a part .. Measure the outer diameter of the tube and have a piece made that will fit over it and except the cutlass bearing.. Looks like the shaft will have to come out and possibly be replaced if its damaged .. Surprised you didn't notice something wrong .. You may also have to change the Innner Seal as well .. Would not try to remove the old tube as they are put in using some sort of silicon seal and you will have to get it lined up with the engine after ..
Good luck with the repair but I would think out of the box .. :neutral:
Ps .. Just had another look at the picture .. Has it been repaired before .. Looks like the shaft is covered in fibreglass. Ours comes straight out and you can see its stainless ..
Good luck with the repair but I would think out of the box .. :neutral:
Ps .. Just had another look at the picture .. Has it been repaired before .. Looks like the shaft is covered in fibreglass. Ours comes straight out and you can see its stainless ..
Well, ready for this? I need a new shaft. Seems the shaft that was in there was a quickly-done work-around to make the added Max-Prop fit. You can see where a spline was welded then emery'ed down. Large corrosion spot under the prob hub where a void in the weld opened. And it makes no sense to put a new shaft into a 16 year old dripless seal, so need a new one of those, too. Gotta love those dealers. Southwestern Yachts of San Diego is probably the worst commissioning dealer in the US. A list of problems caused by their shoddy work would fill volumes.
- Status