All, The yard just quoted me $600 to replace the cutlass bearing on my C28. Is this right? I thought they should have a press of some sort (did I hear that on here?) that can remove the old bearing without dropping the rudder and removing the shaft. Should they? According to the yard they have to drop the rudder, remove the shaft, change the bearing, then redo the stuffing box and drivetrain on the way back in. Is this right or am I getting snowed??? Any help is appreciated! Mike Elmore Chicago, IL Windward Hull-C28 #7
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Phil
Kind of high for a cutlass bearing
I just had it done on my C-27 this spring for about $450. They had to drop the rudder, replace the packing, and replace the propeller shaft. The price included a new, 1" diameter stainless steel shaft. Maybe your price includes extras like that. Phil Decker S/V "Catmandu" C27, 1982, TR, traditional, A4.
I just had it done on my C-27 this spring for about $450. They had to drop the rudder, replace the packing, and replace the propeller shaft. The price included a new, 1" diameter stainless steel shaft. Maybe your price includes extras like that. Phil Decker S/V "Catmandu" C27, 1982, TR, traditional, A4.
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John Buckham
Yup. Sounds about right.
What you describe is what you’ll need to do to change the cutlass barring. It might just be possible to remove the prop, clean the prop shaft, then slide the old cutlass barring out, down the shaft, then working the new one back up into position, I’ve never tired this, but in theory it should work? If not, it’ll cost ‘ya! If your boat has a tiller dropping the rudder isn’t a big deal, an hour each way, If you got a wheel…well, that’s going to take more time, if corrosion has worked it’s way Into the system, it could be a real pain requiring 10+ hours to remove, and requiring spare parts to reassemble. The prop shaft, in theory should be quite easy to remove also, but if our mother of trouble, corrosion has “welded” the shaft to the drive flange-well that will take more time yet! That $800 isn’t too much time at $80.00 an hour (yard rates here in the SF bay area.) when I run into an issue like this I try to do the work myself, it’s cheaper – I don’t make $80.00 and hour! Good Luck!
What you describe is what you’ll need to do to change the cutlass barring. It might just be possible to remove the prop, clean the prop shaft, then slide the old cutlass barring out, down the shaft, then working the new one back up into position, I’ve never tired this, but in theory it should work? If not, it’ll cost ‘ya! If your boat has a tiller dropping the rudder isn’t a big deal, an hour each way, If you got a wheel…well, that’s going to take more time, if corrosion has worked it’s way Into the system, it could be a real pain requiring 10+ hours to remove, and requiring spare parts to reassemble. The prop shaft, in theory should be quite easy to remove also, but if our mother of trouble, corrosion has “welded” the shaft to the drive flange-well that will take more time yet! That $800 isn’t too much time at $80.00 an hour (yard rates here in the SF bay area.) when I run into an issue like this I try to do the work myself, it’s cheaper – I don’t make $80.00 and hour! Good Luck!
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Brian D
bearing removal $50.00
The yard where I keep my boat pulled my old 30 2 years ago they had a press of some type that clamped around the shaft and pressed the cutlass bearing out, then pressed the new one in in about 30 minutes. total cost using my bearing was 50.00 added to my bill. So maybey check around a little if possible, for someone with the proper equipment.
The yard where I keep my boat pulled my old 30 2 years ago they had a press of some type that clamped around the shaft and pressed the cutlass bearing out, then pressed the new one in in about 30 minutes. total cost using my bearing was 50.00 added to my bill. So maybey check around a little if possible, for someone with the proper equipment.
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Les Murray
My yard charged me a grand
My yard charged me over $1,000 for the same thing. It didn't include dropping the rudder, but it did include an extra $350 for a new SS shaft (my old one was bent) plus another hundred or so for a new coupling and labor. Given that, your job doesn't sound too bad. You may want to have your shaft surveyed to make sure it is straight. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
My yard charged me over $1,000 for the same thing. It didn't include dropping the rudder, but it did include an extra $350 for a new SS shaft (my old one was bent) plus another hundred or so for a new coupling and labor. Given that, your job doesn't sound too bad. You may want to have your shaft surveyed to make sure it is straight. Good luck, Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
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Don
Too high.....
My yard used a hydraulic press that attached to the strut to press the old one out and the new one in. Only hard part was getting the prop off. First time in 15 years. Charged me $75 labor and $60 for the bearing. Best investment I made lately.
My yard used a hydraulic press that attached to the strut to press the old one out and the new one in. Only hard part was getting the prop off. First time in 15 years. Charged me $75 labor and $60 for the bearing. Best investment I made lately.
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John Visser
Tool?
Can someone who has had this job done by a yard with this special tool please give me the name and number of the yard so I can track down the name of that tool? My yard doesn't have one. Thanks, jv
Can someone who has had this job done by a yard with this special tool please give me the name and number of the yard so I can track down the name of that tool? My yard doesn't have one. Thanks, jv
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Don
For John V.
Take a look a "strutpro.com". Their tool is not hydraulic, but the same principle. After you've seen it, you might be able to make one.
Take a look a "strutpro.com". Their tool is not hydraulic, but the same principle. After you've seen it, you might be able to make one.
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Steve W.
sounds way high to me
My yard here in Florida replaced the cutlass bearing, stuffing box rubber tube and repacked the stuffing box with Teflon stuffing for $300.00. 1986 Newport 28, Universal M-18. To avoid removing the rudder, they just disconnected the strut by removing 4 inside nuts & washers and the shaft cleared the rudder easily. Obviously they had to disconnect and remove the coupling before the shaft would come out. No need to remove the prop from the shaft. The price also included re-aligning the engine to the coupling after the boat had been back in the water for a week. I did have the work done while getting a bottom job, I highly reccomend replacing the stuffing box rubber tube if it has much age on it..mine was starting to crack and you should have seen the inside of it! Scarey.
My yard here in Florida replaced the cutlass bearing, stuffing box rubber tube and repacked the stuffing box with Teflon stuffing for $300.00. 1986 Newport 28, Universal M-18. To avoid removing the rudder, they just disconnected the strut by removing 4 inside nuts & washers and the shaft cleared the rudder easily. Obviously they had to disconnect and remove the coupling before the shaft would come out. No need to remove the prop from the shaft. The price also included re-aligning the engine to the coupling after the boat had been back in the water for a week. I did have the work done while getting a bottom job, I highly reccomend replacing the stuffing box rubber tube if it has much age on it..mine was starting to crack and you should have seen the inside of it! Scarey.
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John Visser
to Don
Thanks! I looked at the website, and got a price from a distributor in MA - $689.00. A lot of money for one use, but cheap for a yard, I think.
Thanks! I looked at the website, and got a price from a distributor in MA - $689.00. A lot of money for one use, but cheap for a yard, I think.
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John Visser
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Brian D
To John Visser About Special Tool
My marina is Bay Marine 757-362-5000, Norfolk , Va. Ask for Jimmy Taylor
My marina is Bay Marine 757-362-5000, Norfolk , Va. Ask for Jimmy Taylor
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