Cutlass Bearing S2 9.2c

[engdude62]

Does anyone have some knowledge to pass on in replacing the cutlass bearing on my 9.2c? I am getting ready to have the boat hauled for bottom paint and know the cutlass bearing needs to be replaced. If anyone can give me some pointers it would be appreciated.

One guy I talked to said the strut or the prop drive shaft will have to be removed from the boat. Someone else told me that the bearing can normally be replaced without removing the strut or drive shaft. is there an owner out there that can give me some clear direction?

 

[woodster]

i have a 9.2A and have had a new strut made..... as mine was toast...and i think you have the same configureation as the 9.2A......if i am correct there is no need to remove the shaft or the strut...they make a puller especially for this......i think you may be able to see in some of Mainsails posting in the archives or in compass marine postings......i will post some pics of the new and old strut later on to day.....

regards

woody

 

[engdude62]

Woody, I believe you are right about the struts being the same between the 9.2c and 9.2a models. Having a new strut made must of cost a good dime - I hope I don't run into that kind of a problem. I will look forward to seeing your pictures.

 

[woodster]

Woody, I believe you are right about the struts being the same between the 9.2c and 9.2a models. Having a new strut made must of cost a good dime - I hope I don't run into that kind of a problem. I will look forward to seeing your pictures.

ok here go....i have been worrying with this for over 18 months now ...i have had several people look at it in person and all but one said to use it ....i wasnt satisfied with the use it answer and wasnt sure why so i finally got it made after much wrangleing and research ...it was made by the same company that made the original one bwtw....and as it turns out i have done the right thing by haveing a new one made.....after i got the new one home i proceded to take a 12 oz ballpeen hammer and give it a medium tap with the ball side of the hammer and the crushed part you see in the pic is the result of that tap.....now what would have happen if i had used it as is .....prolly lost my shaft and prop in the big gaping hole it would have made in the bottom of my boat and sunk the boat as well ......gut feelings are not to ever be ignored.....stray electricity was the culpret in this damage......

 

[woodster]

Woody, I believe you are right about the struts being the same between the 9.2c and 9.2a models. Having a new strut made must of cost a good dime - I hope I don't run into that kind of a problem. I will look forward to seeing your pictures.

so far what i have learned about the 9.2s is that both are the same from the toe rail down on the out side.....

regards

woody

 

[BobM]

I have replaced my Cutless bearing. I ended up pulling the shaft rather than paying the $400 for the tool. Ended up with HUGE headaches and spent far more, but it proved unavoidable because I could not get the prop off (broke three prop pullers...used heat...lube...cold...forget it. Should have cut the shaft and bought a new one...ended up redoing the whole drive train...but I had to do the stuffing box hose too). The tool isn't perfect, but this is one case where it is money well spent.

Unfortunately...if your boat is all original, as mine was...you should be just as concerned about your stuffing box hose, which was a survey item on my boat...as the cutless bearing. If I had to do it tomorrow I'd buy all new parts (except the prop...so coupling, shaft, stuffing box hose and bearing) from deepblueyachtsupply.com, cut the bleeping shaft in half with my sawzall (note that this assumes you have a two blade prop...otherwise you have to pull it...a two can be eased past the rudder...which is how I got mine off finally)...replace it all. I spent at least four days just getting mine apart because of the stuck prop.

Alternately, I'd pay to have the yard do it if I wasn't going to do other work or buy the tool strutpro.com

Woody...that strut was GONE...electrolysis or a bad piece from the red coloration. I would have replaced it too.

 

[BobM]

By the way...if you remove the strut it will be fun to line up again for sure. Don't recommend that approach personally, but perhaps Woody has more info there, having done it.

 

[woodster]

By the way...if you remove the strut it will be fun to line up again for sure. Don't recommend that approach personally, but perhaps Woody has more info there, having done it.

i dont think he needs to remove his strut just needs a new cutless bearing ....and i dont thik he needs to remove the shaft either unless it is not true or worn to much .....

as far as realinement on the new one...there will be some minor tweeking i am sure ...but i had it made by the original mfg and the new one is exactly like the old one with out all the ware a tare...lol.....if any one needs that info just pm me and i will give it to you and a dealer where you can buy it through at a reasonable price....

regards

woody

 

[woodster]

Woody, I believe you are right about the struts being the same between the 9.2c and 9.2a models. Having a new strut made must of cost a good dime - quote]

as the princess of the lake would say it cost 3 boat units...lol

but if you concider that cutless bearing was install and came with it for that price it wasnt really all that bad....except for the need to do it in the first place...stricker shock is tough when you have other things that the money could have gone to

regards

woody

 

[engdude62]

Hey Woody, not sure what pm me means but I would appreciate getting the dealer information from you as to your source for a reasonably priced strut. I'm not sure what I am going to be running up against when I have the boat hauled because it's a recent purchase and it was a quick sale for the right price so I only had the opportunity to swim on the bottom before purchase - no haul out. I may very well end up needing a strut myself but even if I don't it would be nice to know where one can be obtained resonably all the same. Did they have to make the strut or was it an inventoried item? What was the lead time in getting it?

I also note from your pictures that the cutlass bearing is what I would consider a thin wall type held in place with two set screws on the strut. Are the set screws what hold the bearing in place or is the bearing itself an interfearance fit with the strut as well? If it is an interfearace fit and being thin walled I'm not sure how you could remove it from the strut without removing the strut or the shaft although you seem to say there is a way to do so - please elaberate.

From what Bob is stating I might have my hands full just getting the prop off - any recomendations for that operation other than heat PB blaster and patience? From what I have read it sounds like the prop is fixed to a straight shaft with a key so I can imagine it might be a pain to come off if it hasn't been removed for some time. I do have some heavy duty Snap-on pullers I can use to help in the removal process.

Thanks for all the helpful information.

 

[woodster]

Hey Woody, not sure what pm me meansPrivate Message but I would appreciate getting the dealer information from you as to your source for a reasonably priced strut. I'm not sure what I am going to be running up against when I have the boat hauled because it's a recent purchase and it was a quick sale for the right price so I only had the opportunity to swim on the bottom before purchase - no haul out. I may very well end up needing a strut myself but even if I don't it would be nice to know where one can be obtained resonably all the same. Did they have to make the strut or was it an inventoried item? What was the lead time in getting it? It had to be made and there is about a 3 week lead time they have the pattersn on hand at the casting co.

I also note from your pictures that the cutlass bearing is what I would consider a thin wall type held in place with two set screws on the strut. Are the set screws what hold the bearing in place or is the bearing itself an interfearance fit with the strut as well? It is a both If it is an interfearace fit and being thin walled I'm not sure how you could remove it from the strut without removing the strut or the shaft although you seem to say there is a way to do so - please elaberate. check with Mainsail on this as he knows exactly how its done

From what Bob is stating I might have my hands full just getting the prop off - any recomendations for that operation other than heat PB blaster and patience? There is a puller for that one as well From what I have read it sounds like the prop is fixed to a straight shaftnoo it is a tapered shaft with a key with a key so I can imagine it might be a pain to come off if it hasn't been removed for some time. I do have some heavy duty Snap-on pullersyou may try thoses but i would find a marine mechanic that has the correct pullers and have him do it or you may be able to rent them .... I can use to help in the removal process.

Thanks for all the helpful information.

i will pm you with the info

regards

woody

 

[engdude62]

Thanks Woody.

Since you have the old strut handy could you provide me the ID, OD and length dimensions for the cutlass bearing for the strut so I can start looking for the necassary tooling? If you know the cutlass bearing P/N that would be of great help too. I haven't measured it yet but I believe the shaft OD is 1".
Thanks

 

[woodster]

Thanks Woody.

Since you have the old strut handy could you provide me the ID, OD and length dimensions for the cutlass bearing for the strut so I can start looking for the necassary tooling? If you know the cutlass bearing P/N that would be of great help too. I haven't measured it yet but I believe the shaft OD is 1".
Thanks

shaft 1"
od bearing is 1 1/4"
length is 4" and it set to the prop end of the strut

regards

woody

 

[engdude62]

Thanks for the info.

I called your contact for the strut and it wasn't as bad as I thought price wise. The lead time he quoted was 3 to 4 weeks. Have you installed your strut yet? If you havn't installed it yet and your going to be out of the water for a while perhaps I can make it worth your while in purchasing your strut if I end up needing one. I need to be in and out of the yard within about a week. If not and it turns out to be bad I will have to let it go and pull the boat out of the water again at a future date. I am keeping my fingers crossed that my strut is OK.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[woodster]

when you pull the boat out of the water if the metal is not pink like mine it will prolly be ok ....take a hammer and tap the web of the strut and if it rings sorta like a bell it is sound....and you can also stratch the surface and if you get a gold color like my new one it will be ok ....as far as selling you mine i have already set it to the hull ...i am almost sure yours is ok mine was a product of many years of neglect......but stranger things have happened..

regards

woody

 

[engdude62]

OK, thanks again. I will let you know what I find. Hopefully it will be a quick bottom job, cutlass bearing change and a splash.

Based on your dimensions I have already started to fabricate a sleave to help with the bearing removal.