The wooden cupholder/steps on my 94 H26 are getting along in years. Anybody replaced those? What did you do? Thanks, Michael
Cupholder/Step
- Thread starter Michael15707
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From Hunter
I think you're talking about the "coaming pads" on the cockpit sides near where they meet the cabin bulkhead? Above the cubby holes? I got new teak coaming pads from Hunter 4 years ago. The originals on my 95 H23.5 had no cupholder holes but the new ones do. I noticed on a 96 23.5 that they were made of plastic. A buddy bought a 95 H26 last year and his are made of plastic. The H26 ones are longer and have two cupholders; mine have just one. I might have ordered plastic if I knew they were available. I never actually installed the new ones, but I will eventually. It took me until a couple of months ago to get the Beckson cupholders to insert into the holes. (The 95 H26 doesn't need these.) I'll probably leave them bare instead of varnishing them for the extra traction because I seem to step on them when coming down from the cabin top. I've already oiled them with teak oil, but I know from doing the same to my stern rail seats that the oil only lasts a month or two outdoors. I've since redone the stern rail seats with Cetol. Cetol Light might look better but I couldn't get any at the time. ...RickM...
I think you're talking about the "coaming pads" on the cockpit sides near where they meet the cabin bulkhead? Above the cubby holes? I got new teak coaming pads from Hunter 4 years ago. The originals on my 95 H23.5 had no cupholder holes but the new ones do. I noticed on a 96 23.5 that they were made of plastic. A buddy bought a 95 H26 last year and his are made of plastic. The H26 ones are longer and have two cupholders; mine have just one. I might have ordered plastic if I knew they were available. I never actually installed the new ones, but I will eventually. It took me until a couple of months ago to get the Beckson cupholders to insert into the holes. (The 95 H26 doesn't need these.) I'll probably leave them bare instead of varnishing them for the extra traction because I seem to step on them when coming down from the cabin top. I've already oiled them with teak oil, but I know from doing the same to my stern rail seats that the oil only lasts a month or two outdoors. I've since redone the stern rail seats with Cetol. Cetol Light might look better but I couldn't get any at the time. ...RickM...
Sanding?
The last time I pressure-washed my deck, I blasted the old coming pads to see if the green fuzz would wash away. It did, and it actually looked like teak again, for a while at least. That made me think I could have just sanded them down in the first place. Is that an option for yours? Those thin groves would be a pain. There is another thread here where a person mentioned "PlasTeak" (see links). Perhaps you could fashion your own or have them made? http://www.plasteak.com/boating/teak_replacement/tkreplcmnt.htm ...RickM...
The last time I pressure-washed my deck, I blasted the old coming pads to see if the green fuzz would wash away. It did, and it actually looked like teak again, for a while at least. That made me think I could have just sanded them down in the first place. Is that an option for yours? Those thin groves would be a pain. There is another thread here where a person mentioned "PlasTeak" (see links). Perhaps you could fashion your own or have them made? http://www.plasteak.com/boating/teak_replacement/tkreplcmnt.htm ...RickM...
Sanding/Cleaning
They clean up ok, just that they are getting pretty brittle. The one on the port side is starting to come apart. They are small emough that I suppose I could find some left over teak and cut my own. I've thought about the fake stuff, and I might do that as well.
They clean up ok, just that they are getting pretty brittle. The one on the port side is starting to come apart. They are small emough that I suppose I could find some left over teak and cut my own. I've thought about the fake stuff, and I might do that as well.
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