I am trying to improve the down wind and light wind performance of my Hunter 310. I am looking at a couple of things to do and I am open to other suggestions as well. I am looking for advice on installing a cruising chute. Can it be done without adding winches on the coamings? What system is available to raise the sail with the jib rolled up and in place? I have padeyes on my stern rail. Would other blocks be needed? I am trying to accomplish this at a low cost but I want to do it right. Also, what size whisker pole is recommended for the 110 jib? Thanks, Jesse Tate Relesha II
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chute
If you get a chute you will want to use it in conjunction with a stuffing sock. The sock makes it much easier to hoist, fly and stuff the chute. You don't have to install extra winches, you could install turning blocks at the stern and lead your sheet to your existing winches. As far as a pole for your 110%, you won't need one for your 110% if you are getting a downwind sail. You may want to get a pole for the chute, and the formula for size is based on your rig, but I can't recall the formula right now so I don't want to give you the wrong information. Read up on chutes and poles by checking out websites such as West Marine advisor, and major sail lofts have info on chutes on their sites. Forespar would be a good source for poles info.
If you get a chute you will want to use it in conjunction with a stuffing sock. The sock makes it much easier to hoist, fly and stuff the chute. You don't have to install extra winches, you could install turning blocks at the stern and lead your sheet to your existing winches. As far as a pole for your 110%, you won't need one for your 110% if you are getting a downwind sail. You may want to get a pole for the chute, and the formula for size is based on your rig, but I can't recall the formula right now so I don't want to give you the wrong information. Read up on chutes and poles by checking out websites such as West Marine advisor, and major sail lofts have info on chutes on their sites. Forespar would be a good source for poles info.
choices
Like you I am looking to improve the downwind performance of my 310 and have been researching which of the 2 options that I have so far found is best. I would be interested in any comments that you or anyone else might have on the following. What do you see as advantages and disadvantages of the two configurations. Option 1 : The Hunter 310 owners book shows an optional spinnaker package that mounts 2 Lewmar 30-CST winches on the coamings aft of the arch and 2 blocks on the arch. This package uses a UK spinnaker sail that is raised by the spinnaker halyard on the mast. Hunter has some additional documentation that shows in greater detail the other hardware that is needed for both mast (furling and non-furling) configurations. The cost for this option is approximately $4500 w/o labor. Option 2: This option is to use an asymetrical cruising chute with dousing sock from UK sails, mount blocks on the arch, mount turning blocks on the coamings to use the existing winches. The control line for the dousing sock would run down the port side in much the same as the as the furling control runs down the starboard side of the deck. The cost for this option is approximately $2000 w/o labor.
Like you I am looking to improve the downwind performance of my 310 and have been researching which of the 2 options that I have so far found is best. I would be interested in any comments that you or anyone else might have on the following. What do you see as advantages and disadvantages of the two configurations. Option 1 : The Hunter 310 owners book shows an optional spinnaker package that mounts 2 Lewmar 30-CST winches on the coamings aft of the arch and 2 blocks on the arch. This package uses a UK spinnaker sail that is raised by the spinnaker halyard on the mast. Hunter has some additional documentation that shows in greater detail the other hardware that is needed for both mast (furling and non-furling) configurations. The cost for this option is approximately $4500 w/o labor. Option 2: This option is to use an asymetrical cruising chute with dousing sock from UK sails, mount blocks on the arch, mount turning blocks on the coamings to use the existing winches. The control line for the dousing sock would run down the port side in much the same as the as the furling control runs down the starboard side of the deck. The cost for this option is approximately $2000 w/o labor.
spinnakers
As Jerry has pointed out, there are a couple of different way to go with a spinnaker. If you just want to cruise and not go crazy (with money crew work, hardware, etc.) the UK flasher (our cruising asymetrical) is about 635 sq. ft. and an easy way to go. Step up to a regular asymmetrical (@770 sq. ft.) and you get more power without the extra hardware. If you're satisfied with your upwind performance, the flasher is the biggest oomph for the dollar. It would help you to identify the sailing conditions you usually face, and the kind of sailing you like to do. When you talk to a sailmaker, he (she) should ask those questions to help you figure what you really need. PS, I woudn't use a whisker pole on a 110% jib, but for your info, most racing areas limit a whisker pole to 80% of the largest headsail's LP. Hope this helps, Mark.
As Jerry has pointed out, there are a couple of different way to go with a spinnaker. If you just want to cruise and not go crazy (with money crew work, hardware, etc.) the UK flasher (our cruising asymetrical) is about 635 sq. ft. and an easy way to go. Step up to a regular asymmetrical (@770 sq. ft.) and you get more power without the extra hardware. If you're satisfied with your upwind performance, the flasher is the biggest oomph for the dollar. It would help you to identify the sailing conditions you usually face, and the kind of sailing you like to do. When you talk to a sailmaker, he (she) should ask those questions to help you figure what you really need. PS, I woudn't use a whisker pole on a 110% jib, but for your info, most racing areas limit a whisker pole to 80% of the largest headsail's LP. Hope this helps, Mark.
asym. chute
I sail a 1989 27-2 with a fractional rig. I use an asymetrical chute because it is easy and fun. I have a simple block at the tack with a downhaul line leading back to the cockpit, and turning blocks aft of the primary winches. Of course, you need an extra halyard. If you don't sail below 120 degrees, you really don't need a pole. Wing-and-wing on a lake with shifty winds is asking for trouble. If you do add a pole, you can simply mount a ring to the front of the mast instead of a track. If you plan to race with a chute, ad the track. All in all, it doesn't take a lot of add'l gear to add an asym. chute, and it doesn't require a lot of extra hands.
I sail a 1989 27-2 with a fractional rig. I use an asymetrical chute because it is easy and fun. I have a simple block at the tack with a downhaul line leading back to the cockpit, and turning blocks aft of the primary winches. Of course, you need an extra halyard. If you don't sail below 120 degrees, you really don't need a pole. Wing-and-wing on a lake with shifty winds is asking for trouble. If you do add a pole, you can simply mount a ring to the front of the mast instead of a track. If you plan to race with a chute, ad the track. All in all, it doesn't take a lot of add'l gear to add an asym. chute, and it doesn't require a lot of extra hands.
poor man's rig
You can easily fly an asym chute with only a (1) spinnaker halyard and (2) a pair of blocks mounted aft. You'll need the dousing sock and a pair of sheets, and that's about it. You can add donwhauls, winches, etc., which makes it easier still, but they are not required.
You can easily fly an asym chute with only a (1) spinnaker halyard and (2) a pair of blocks mounted aft. You'll need the dousing sock and a pair of sheets, and that's about it. You can add donwhauls, winches, etc., which makes it easier still, but they are not required.
If you are buying blocks
spend the extra $$ for ratchet blocks. Either with a sliding switch or a rotating dial that turns the ratchet mechanism on and off. It just makes life easier to work the sheet with out a winch most of the time. BOL PJ
spend the extra $$ for ratchet blocks. Either with a sliding switch or a rotating dial that turns the ratchet mechanism on and off. It just makes life easier to work the sheet with out a winch most of the time. BOL PJ
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