I keep looking at the Doyle Cruising Spinnakers and have been kicking around the idea of getting one. Does anybody have any "do's or do-not's" concerning getting one for an '85 H23? Lake Erie will be the place the boat will be used the most this summer. Also, what needs done to the boat to use one? The only sails I have now are a main and a 110% jib. Thanks...
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D
David Foster
Go for the Doyles
on this site. Get the dousing sock. Then you will have the ideal cruising set-up for Lake Erie. We have a 110 and the APC on our h27 out of Mentor Lagoons. In light air, the APC will sail a quite close reach, and, of course, off the wind, it gives us 1 to 1.5 knots more speed - the difference between sailing or motoring on many days. With winds from 10-20, our 135 overpowers the boat, so the 110 is the right answer. The only reason for a big genny - 135 to 155 - is to make time to windward in light air, since the APC is a better sail off the wind. In light air, we use the motor to go to windward, while above 10 knots, the 110 is, once again, the right sail. The requirements to rig a cruising spinnaker (like the APC) are: - A halyard attached above and ahead of the forestay. Most boats have a bail on the forward side of the masthead to mount the block for this halyard. If not, it's easy to add one. - An attachment point for the tack forward of the forestay. If you have a toe rail, then a snap shackle at the end of the short tack line attaches easily. I wrap mine once around the front rail of the pulpit to get it as far as possible up and forward. - The sheet runs from the clew to a turning block at the stern quarter. I use a snatch block on the last eye of the toe rail, and just switch it to whichever side we are flying the APC. The the sheet goes to your normal wheet winch. This set-up allows us to get the spinnaker rigged and raised in its sock while we are still sailing on the 110. Then we roller furl the 110, mask the sock with the main, hoist the sock to deploy the sail, and we are off! Our APC converts 20 to 35 percent of our time cruising from the motor to the sails, and it is a beautiful sail to fly. Go for it! David Lady Lillie
on this site. Get the dousing sock. Then you will have the ideal cruising set-up for Lake Erie. We have a 110 and the APC on our h27 out of Mentor Lagoons. In light air, the APC will sail a quite close reach, and, of course, off the wind, it gives us 1 to 1.5 knots more speed - the difference between sailing or motoring on many days. With winds from 10-20, our 135 overpowers the boat, so the 110 is the right answer. The only reason for a big genny - 135 to 155 - is to make time to windward in light air, since the APC is a better sail off the wind. In light air, we use the motor to go to windward, while above 10 knots, the 110 is, once again, the right sail. The requirements to rig a cruising spinnaker (like the APC) are: - A halyard attached above and ahead of the forestay. Most boats have a bail on the forward side of the masthead to mount the block for this halyard. If not, it's easy to add one. - An attachment point for the tack forward of the forestay. If you have a toe rail, then a snap shackle at the end of the short tack line attaches easily. I wrap mine once around the front rail of the pulpit to get it as far as possible up and forward. - The sheet runs from the clew to a turning block at the stern quarter. I use a snatch block on the last eye of the toe rail, and just switch it to whichever side we are flying the APC. The the sheet goes to your normal wheet winch. This set-up allows us to get the spinnaker rigged and raised in its sock while we are still sailing on the 110. Then we roller furl the 110, mask the sock with the main, hoist the sock to deploy the sail, and we are off! Our APC converts 20 to 35 percent of our time cruising from the motor to the sails, and it is a beautiful sail to fly. Go for it! David Lady Lillie
M
Mike
go fer it
I bought a cruising spinnaker from UK Sailmakers this summer and it's a great light air sail, fun to fly. No mods needed on my boat('87 H23) other than snatch blocks on the bow and rear quarters. Hey Randy.....you need to be on the H23 regatta mailing list.....if you're not already. If you are interested send a note to sailordog@hotmail.com
I bought a cruising spinnaker from UK Sailmakers this summer and it's a great light air sail, fun to fly. No mods needed on my boat('87 H23) other than snatch blocks on the bow and rear quarters. Hey Randy.....you need to be on the H23 regatta mailing list.....if you're not already. If you are interested send a note to sailordog@hotmail.com
G
Guest
Useful web sites...
You might find info useful at these www locations: uksailmakers.com doylesails.com usedsails.com
You might find info useful at these www locations: uksailmakers.com doylesails.com usedsails.com
C
Cliff Ruckstuhl
Spinnaker
It is simple to hook up and install the right rigging for it. You will need a seperate halyard for it. It will need to exit the mast about 1 foot above the forstay. You can buy the Harken exit block for this. You will then need to have another exit hole for the halyard about 8 feet off the deck. Unless you have the silver mast than all of this might be there. You will need some block's at the most aft end of the boat. It is not all that tough and any of the Sail Makers sights will have the info on how to fly it. We did all of this on our 23 and 25.5 and now on our 28.5. If you need more detail you can email me off site at cruckstuhl@woh.rr.com I can go over this in more detail for you.
It is simple to hook up and install the right rigging for it. You will need a seperate halyard for it. It will need to exit the mast about 1 foot above the forstay. You can buy the Harken exit block for this. You will then need to have another exit hole for the halyard about 8 feet off the deck. Unless you have the silver mast than all of this might be there. You will need some block's at the most aft end of the boat. It is not all that tough and any of the Sail Makers sights will have the info on how to fly it. We did all of this on our 23 and 25.5 and now on our 28.5. If you need more detail you can email me off site at cruckstuhl@woh.rr.com I can go over this in more detail for you.
R
Randy
Thanks!
Thanks for the info guys! I am on the mailing list Mike. boofinbrier@aol.com Randy Simmons "Munchkin"
Thanks for the info guys! I am on the mailing list Mike. boofinbrier@aol.com Randy Simmons "Munchkin"
Check your mast!
If you have a Z-Spar mast, you may already have a second sheave above the forestay tang on the front of the mast. All you have to do then is cut a new exit as Cliff recommends and reeve the new halyard. Add a cleat to secure the halyard and you're good to go. Sorry, you still have to mount a sheave on either side near the transom. Peter H23 "Raven"
If you have a Z-Spar mast, you may already have a second sheave above the forestay tang on the front of the mast. All you have to do then is cut a new exit as Cliff recommends and reeve the new halyard. Add a cleat to secure the halyard and you're good to go. Sorry, you still have to mount a sheave on either side near the transom. Peter H23 "Raven"
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