Crazy Question

Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
I'm afraid to ask this but on the 272 w/Westerbeke 10-2 diesel, is it necessary to add antifreeze/water mixture to the engine regularity? I've only added to the reservoir in the cockpit...the engine runs fine and does not overheat, but re-reading the manual for the engine it seems to suggest adding mixture to the manifold...will be difficult to do with the counter above the engine...if yes, what ratio of water to antifreeze?......really dumb question, but I appreciate everyone's help. Pat
 
Nov 26, 2012
1,654
C&C 40-2 Berkeley
Antifreeze

It should not be necessary to add coolant regularly. To make sure it is full however, you should run then engine until it is warm and then fill it at the radiator cap itself. I typically will check it with the cap off and the engine running. This is because when it is cold and the thermostat is closed it can appear full when it is not. Once you are sure the system is full then make sure the overflow reservoir is full up to the "hot line" marked on the side. Also, the typical ratio is 50/50 antifreeze to water. Use distilled water.
 

Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
Re: Antifreeze

Thank you very much...Great information...How could I have had this boat since 1986 and not checked the actual fluid level in the engine itself....I always assumed that since there was antifreeze/water mixture in the lazarette tank that the engine manifold had to be okay...maybe a bad assumption. Pat
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Practical sailor had a recent eval of engine fresh water anti freezes.
 

Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
Re: Antifreeze

I called Westerbeke and they assured me all was well as long as antifreeze was put in the overflow in the lazarette. No need to add specifically to the engine manifold...
 
Dec 27, 2011
279
Oday 272 Pensacola
Pat - 2 problems I found with overflow & anti-freeze.
1 - My overflow tank never indicated low A/F. BUT did find there is a hole in the neck of the engine tank where overflow tube connects that was stopped up. VERY small hole that must be cleaned if coolant is to flow from overflow to engine tank reservoir.
2 - My overflow tank is mounted high enough on bulkhead so that if cap is removed from engine reservoir, overflow tank will drain completely and you'll have a lot of A/F to remove from under the engine.

I used a 50/50 version of A/F. If you have never changed A/F, it might be a good idea to drain the reservoir (and maybe engine too) to make sure the A/F has not turned 'gummy'. After I dumped contents of overflow tank into bilge, I found about 1/2 inch if 'gummy' A/F still in the overflow tank. May have been what stopped up the neck/hole that I had to clean. Cleanout came before dumping tank, so assume gradual 'working' of overflow caused gum to foul the hole.

Charles
 

Pat

.
Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
CB, your problem sounds like mine....my overflow tank has always needed a periodic topping off...but not this year...has remained totally full.. Where is the hole in the engine tank you speak of? The overflow on my boat is also high, but I have not started engine w/cap removed. I'm not sure how to drain either the reservoir or the engine because our boats here were out of the water for 3 1/2 to 4 years...so gummy could be an issue. The boat is back on the cradle / flatbed for the winter w/everything
winterized so if it is gummy, it will have to remain that way thru the winter.. I don't think I can do anything from here on out this fall/winter. Thanks for advice
 
Dec 27, 2011
279
Oday 272 Pensacola
I found my problem only because I had a broken heat exchanger hose and broken HX zinc that made me have to take HX off.

Probably easiest way to check overflow is to remove tube from bottom of overflow, place finger over hole in bottom of overflow, then remove overflow. If you could pump A/F from overflow, that would work just as well, or catch in a bowl after removing tube. Overflow is held in place with 2 screws, so no problem to remove. After all contents of overflow ran through engine, I could see gum in bottom of overflow.

Where tube goes from overflow to HX reservoir (beneath cap), there is a small hole. This allows A/F from overflow to drain back into reservoir after engine cools down and keep reservoir full. I had taken off cap before and couldn't feel A/F, and since hole was clogged, nothing came from overflow into reservoir. This hole was clogged on mine to the point I couldn't feel it. Kept raking a wire over it until I found it (didn't remove tube from HX reservoir, but could have done that too. Didn't know I had a 'gum' problem until I removed HX hose and drained reservoir PLUS Overflow into bilge. Not sure if there is a drain for A/F, but removing hose from pump to HX will certainly drain a lot of A/F out. Not sure of total amt of A/F in the engine, but when all was put back together, I had to add about 3/4 gal to bring overflow back to normal level.

I think I have a weeping pump (that pumps A/F through engine). Anyone know where to purchase a low cost replacement?