Cracks in rudder

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Edward Kennedy

After sanding all the old bottom paint off my 1981 37 cutter's rudder, I found some cracks in the side of it. Also, the rudder is made of a white color plastic; it doesn't look like fiberglass. Does anybody know what type of plastic this is? Has anybody tried fixing these cracks?
 
Jan 22, 2008
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Hunter 33_77-83 Lake Lanier GA
Just did mine, but...

it was not cracked, it did have a few surface blisters that I filled and faired with thickened epoxy, then barrier coated with epoxy based product. Cracks may indicate a structual problem and you might want an expert to take a look at it. Good luck.
 
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Ed Schenck

Not a problem. . . .

maybe. Read what Gene Greunder has to say about the rudder, see Related Link. You are right, it is not fiberglass. I had a few cracks which I sanded out by going deep. Then I mixed up a thick epoxy and faired out the area. First, though, it sat all winter with lots of holes drilled in rows and at an upward angle near the bottom. Then, in the Spring when the rudder was dry I did the epoxy. Afterward you can take off all the paint and use a barrier coat. I think water got in to the rudder around the post. Mine was not sealed there but it is now, more epoxy.
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
I suspect it is ABS...

... since Hunter and others experimented with moulded/welded ABS for tanks and other stuff. A cost-cutting measure... in my opinion not worth it for something like a rudder. The one thing to remember is that fibreglassing over ABS or PVC plastic WILL NOT WORK. The two are incompatible. Best thing to do is to sand it and solvent it to rough it up well enough to take epoxy/filler paint and then deal with it as it is. I have NO idea what the solvent is for this plastic. I have no experience with it... and that is for a reason! JC 2
 
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Ed Schenck

Yes, epoxy holds.

It has been a couple of years but I think that I drilled holes where I faired the epoxy on the rudder. I wanted to make sure it would stay. That part of the rudder has that hard, shiny look under the paint. The rudder seems very solid and I have put off the major project of opening it up. I have wanted to see what the inside looks like but I think, possibly because it has always been in fresh water, that it might not be necessary. Maybe just an additional wrap of cloth and more epoxy would satisfy my paranoia. :) Did you see the photo essay that Gary Henkelmann posted? He added a couple of inches to the leading edge while reglassing. I'll try to post one picture here.
 

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Tim McCarty

I did it too....

I remember following Ed's threads, and, last fall/winter, I re-epoxied my rudder. Thank God I didn't try to re-glass after reading JC's comments. I dropped the rudder and drilled holes in the delamination...a bout a cup of water came out, but the foam core was still white and looked to be fine, soooo, I let it dry for about 2 months, mixed some West System epoxy (the best there is...I know they are an epoxy customer of mine). I then clamped down the delaminated part (using C-clamps and 2/4's), filled the holes with epoxy/hardner, faired everything out, and, repainted the rudder with antifouling. I've since traded in my beloved h27 for a '94 29.5, but, I learned alot about not only epoxy work, but, replacing the cutlass bearing, and repacking the shaft and rudder. Good luck out there...and have fun!
 
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Yehudi

my problem too

I have just been drilling 2 small holes on the bottom for the past couple of years, but notice some blistering at the end of this season. Do you all agree that the water is migrating in the seal between the post and the top of the rudder? Ed Schenck remarked sealing that area with epoxy. I will do the same after it dries out while on the hard.
 
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Jim Legere

And mine...

My rudder had cracks too...as identified by the surveyor in the pre-purchase survey, so I worked a replacement into the budget. The cracks in mine were horizontal and ran almost the width of the rudder, starting about a foot below the 'notch' and as far up as the rudder post, where it emerges. I opted to install a new one ($1300 from Foss Foam).I coated the new one with four coats of West epoxy before the anti fouling, paying particular attention to where the post exits. I still have the old rudder and plan to cut it open for an 'autopsy', and then rebuild it, when time permits. Photo essay to follow some day...
 
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Ed Schenck

Really anxious Jim, . .

to see your photos of the "guts" of the rudder. Practical Sailor did an article on a rudder rebuild a year or two back. The insides were a mess. The blade welded to the post had separated! It was that article that made me paranoid. I think the main water ingress is at the point where the post exits. But I also think osmosis has a lot to do with it.
 
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