My 1993 Hunter 23.5 has developed a crack on the stern of the boat between the transom and the lower hull. Question #1: Have other Hunter 23.5 owners experianced similar cracking problems? Question #2: What is the best way to repair a hull crack of this type at this specific location on the boat?
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Rick Macdonald
Same here
I've seen this refered to as "The Hunter Crack". Sorry, but all I have to tell you is "mee too". My 1995H23.5 had the crack when I bought it. It was repaired as a purchase condition but it's cracked again. I never personally saw it before the repair, or saw or heard how the repair was done, but I imagine what I see now is similar to what it looked like before. She's on the trailer still. Two weeks ago it was above freezing and when I squeezed the crack I could see that there was moisture in it. I have no idea if this is serious, if it can or will leak inside, etc. I have no idea if the crack occurs while in the water or from the freeze/thaw/freeze weather we get where I live. On the other hand, it's much milder in Vancouver where the boat was before I bought it. Perhaps similar climate to Portland where you are. ...RickM...
I've seen this refered to as "The Hunter Crack". Sorry, but all I have to tell you is "mee too". My 1995H23.5 had the crack when I bought it. It was repaired as a purchase condition but it's cracked again. I never personally saw it before the repair, or saw or heard how the repair was done, but I imagine what I see now is similar to what it looked like before. She's on the trailer still. Two weeks ago it was above freezing and when I squeezed the crack I could see that there was moisture in it. I have no idea if this is serious, if it can or will leak inside, etc. I have no idea if the crack occurs while in the water or from the freeze/thaw/freeze weather we get where I live. On the other hand, it's much milder in Vancouver where the boat was before I bought it. Perhaps similar climate to Portland where you are. ...RickM...
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Dave Royce
The reason for the cracks
When I had my 1994 23.5 out two years ago for bottom painting I showed the cracks to shop where I was doing my work. They opened up the cracks and found that the area on the transom lip was not fiberglassed, it is just thick gelcoat, over the closed cell foam. The area where the cracks were also had lots of water in them. They opened up the whole area and dryed it out with heat lamps and heat guns, then the cleaned out a little of the foam and fiberglassed the entire area. The fiberglass was smoothed out, finished, sealed and re-gelcoated. Then after the gelcoat cured we roughed it up and applied bottom paint, no new cracks in two years.
When I had my 1994 23.5 out two years ago for bottom painting I showed the cracks to shop where I was doing my work. They opened up the cracks and found that the area on the transom lip was not fiberglassed, it is just thick gelcoat, over the closed cell foam. The area where the cracks were also had lots of water in them. They opened up the whole area and dryed it out with heat lamps and heat guns, then the cleaned out a little of the foam and fiberglassed the entire area. The fiberglass was smoothed out, finished, sealed and re-gelcoated. Then after the gelcoat cured we roughed it up and applied bottom paint, no new cracks in two years.
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Rick Macdonald
What would happen if they go unrepaired?
I bet the repair done on mine was to just router the cracks a bit and fill them in. What are the consequences of just leaving the cracks to fester? ...RickM...
I bet the repair done on mine was to just router the cracks a bit and fill them in. What are the consequences of just leaving the cracks to fester? ...RickM...
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Dave Royce
Leaving cracks
My guys told if they were not treated or repaired the foam core would get water logged. Not sure how big of deal it is but since I keep the boat in the water for 8 months it was best to repair the area correctly.
My guys told if they were not treated or repaired the foam core would get water logged. Not sure how big of deal it is but since I keep the boat in the water for 8 months it was best to repair the area correctly.
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Frank Ladd
Mine Cracked too
I fixed it the first time and it came back in a year. The second time Crazy Dave's folks fixed it and so far it has not come back.
I fixed it the first time and it came back in a year. The second time Crazy Dave's folks fixed it and so far it has not come back.
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Rick Macdonald
Crazy Dave - details of fix?
Dave - I'm in Western Canada. Would you mind describing a proper fix if it varies from what Dave Royce has already described? ...RickM...
Dave - I'm in Western Canada. Would you mind describing a proper fix if it varies from what Dave Royce has already described? ...RickM...
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Jonathan Costello
Ditto
Mine has it too. It appears to be a design flaw as it is a reocurring problem on this model. I am anxious for Dr. Dave to prescribe a repair.
Mine has it too. It appears to be a design flaw as it is a reocurring problem on this model. I am anxious for Dr. Dave to prescribe a repair.
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Dennis
Yes to cracks
When I bought my 23.5 used it had a very sloppy repair on the edge of the hull joint at transom. After a week in the water I too could squeeze water out. Mine was compounded by previous damage from backing the boat up against something with the motor stuck in the middle. I repaired as follows. With a dremel type tool I routed a half round groove from just left of the motor damage, moving right upthe edge to the rub rail. I cut many 1/2 to3/4 inch strips of fiberglass 6 to 12 inches long and glassed them in to the groove until level. When all cured I recontoured the edge with a small finger plane and a sander. Sprayed with white gel coat. Better than new!! When the hull and deck halves are bonded together they simply gelcoat the edges as someone else here has already stated. As soon as the gel coat is cracked any where on the edge, water is absorbed into the foam core. If this freezes before it drys out when you haul for winter the ice expands and seperates the fiberglass from the foam core and problem is now worse. You must allow the hull to dry thoroughly before repairing or you seal in disaster. Good Luck! Sounds like we've all been there. Dennis
When I bought my 23.5 used it had a very sloppy repair on the edge of the hull joint at transom. After a week in the water I too could squeeze water out. Mine was compounded by previous damage from backing the boat up against something with the motor stuck in the middle. I repaired as follows. With a dremel type tool I routed a half round groove from just left of the motor damage, moving right upthe edge to the rub rail. I cut many 1/2 to3/4 inch strips of fiberglass 6 to 12 inches long and glassed them in to the groove until level. When all cured I recontoured the edge with a small finger plane and a sander. Sprayed with white gel coat. Better than new!! When the hull and deck halves are bonded together they simply gelcoat the edges as someone else here has already stated. As soon as the gel coat is cracked any where on the edge, water is absorbed into the foam core. If this freezes before it drys out when you haul for winter the ice expands and seperates the fiberglass from the foam core and problem is now worse. You must allow the hull to dry thoroughly before repairing or you seal in disaster. Good Luck! Sounds like we've all been there. Dennis
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crazy dave
repairs
Dennis is right on the mark. You have to dremel the seam out as it is only a marine putty. Make sure you go to the fiberglas when removing. You can use a two part epoxy or even fiberglass like Dennis did. You may want to use a fine two part on the epoxy so to fill in the miniscule holes so no leaks can occour. Then put the gel coat on. I would use a prevale sprayer but some folks brush it on. When redrilling for the screw holes for the base of the rub rail, please predrill and use 5200 caulking.
Dennis is right on the mark. You have to dremel the seam out as it is only a marine putty. Make sure you go to the fiberglas when removing. You can use a two part epoxy or even fiberglass like Dennis did. You may want to use a fine two part on the epoxy so to fill in the miniscule holes so no leaks can occour. Then put the gel coat on. I would use a prevale sprayer but some folks brush it on. When redrilling for the screw holes for the base of the rub rail, please predrill and use 5200 caulking.
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