You may remember back to Bob Miller's bow roller project. It is in the Photo Forum. I used his idea and also had one made from 3/16" stainless. Helps to know a good local welding shop, they only charged me $20. to cut and drill. The plate cost about $25. and the roller $6.00. I had a large hole cut where the original roller axle comes through so that I could leave that. I have not had an opportunity to test it with my new manual windlass which is inside the locker. Those pictures are still in the camera. There is another view in the Photo Forum.
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Ed Allen
nice job!
I think this is got to be one of the best ideas i have seen. thanks to both you and Bob! Ill start to work on mine one of these days.
I think this is got to be one of the best ideas i have seen. thanks to both you and Bob! Ill start to work on mine one of these days.
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Jim Boernge
pin?
Ed, What do you use for a retainer? SS rod? I need to fabricate one for my 36. Old one was bent and had a difficult pin near the end.
Ed, What do you use for a retainer? SS rod? I need to fabricate one for my 36. Old one was bent and had a difficult pin near the end.
Nice anchor roller.
Nice roller, Ed! Did you really need 3/16"? That's pretty heavy metal. I'd be eager to hear your thoughts in lighter material-- as I would like to have one made for my H-25. It has to be longer and narrower than those commercially available. JC 2
Nice roller, Ed! Did you really need 3/16"? That's pretty heavy metal. I'd be eager to hear your thoughts in lighter material-- as I would like to have one made for my H-25. It has to be longer and narrower than those commercially available. JC 2
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David Foster
Strength, Stiffness, JC II
I don't have the tools to run the numbers, JC, but here are my thoughts: I guess stiffness is the issue. We want the anchor roller to take the whole momentum of the boat when it rises on a wave against the rode. The rode will be pulling down to bend the fixture. The design answer is in the flanges on either side. I'll bet the U Channel on most rollers is stronger than the connection to the hull. Then there is the mass of the h25 at one quarter of the h37c. Certainly the suppliers of these things have run the numbers. I guess I'd ask one of them for a definitive answer. David Lady Lillie
I don't have the tools to run the numbers, JC, but here are my thoughts: I guess stiffness is the issue. We want the anchor roller to take the whole momentum of the boat when it rises on a wave against the rode. The rode will be pulling down to bend the fixture. The design answer is in the flanges on either side. I'll bet the U Channel on most rollers is stronger than the connection to the hull. Then there is the mass of the h25 at one quarter of the h37c. Certainly the suppliers of these things have run the numbers. I guess I'd ask one of them for a definitive answer. David Lady Lillie
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Ed Schenck
Plate thickness.
Yes, 3/16" is probably overkill. When I bought the plate I envisioned the final design being longer. I think 1/8" would have been plenty. Saturday I finally put the new 100' of chain aboard. I used the new manual windlass in the locker to pull it out of the box from twelve feet below. Now I know how many lever throws it takes to pull in 100 feet of chain, TOO many! I also learned that I did not install the hawse pipe correctly. I should have angled it more, from under the windlass to more towards the stern. The chain does not slide down the keel to the bottom. Instead it piles up until it will no longer go down the pipe. I can fix that, I will glass in a piece of plywood to make a ramp. Always something!
Yes, 3/16" is probably overkill. When I bought the plate I envisioned the final design being longer. I think 1/8" would have been plenty. Saturday I finally put the new 100' of chain aboard. I used the new manual windlass in the locker to pull it out of the box from twelve feet below. Now I know how many lever throws it takes to pull in 100 feet of chain, TOO many! I also learned that I did not install the hawse pipe correctly. I should have angled it more, from under the windlass to more towards the stern. The chain does not slide down the keel to the bottom. Instead it piles up until it will no longer go down the pipe. I can fix that, I will glass in a piece of plywood to make a ramp. Always something!
Rode lead from anchor roller to storage
We just had a conversation about this at the club on mooring-pull day. Everyone agreed that the further aft you can get the chain and rope rode to lie in the boat, 1. the stiffer the boat's pitching motion will be; 2. the more chain you can carry comfortably. We used to stuff 300 ft of chain into the forepeak of those elegant Cherubini 44s-- all of it went forward of the vee berth. Yes, it was about 650 lbs. Yes, we winched it up about 11 ft from the shop floor before delivering the boat. Yes, it took about 8 million winch cycles on the Simpson-Lawrence. (Yes, we gave this job to the lowest-paid peons. That means I did it a few times.) I think it's imperative that the hawse from the deck into the rode locker be as vertical as possible-- that said, there also has to be enough of an angle to the bottom of the rode locker to avoid it all piling up under the hawse pipe. It'd be good to use the slanting forefoot to encourage the chain lower and further aft. Ideally all that weight should be under the mast. Getting it any closer than the forward end of the vee berth is a benefit. JC 2
We just had a conversation about this at the club on mooring-pull day. Everyone agreed that the further aft you can get the chain and rope rode to lie in the boat, 1. the stiffer the boat's pitching motion will be; 2. the more chain you can carry comfortably. We used to stuff 300 ft of chain into the forepeak of those elegant Cherubini 44s-- all of it went forward of the vee berth. Yes, it was about 650 lbs. Yes, we winched it up about 11 ft from the shop floor before delivering the boat. Yes, it took about 8 million winch cycles on the Simpson-Lawrence. (Yes, we gave this job to the lowest-paid peons. That means I did it a few times.) I think it's imperative that the hawse from the deck into the rode locker be as vertical as possible-- that said, there also has to be enough of an angle to the bottom of the rode locker to avoid it all piling up under the hawse pipe. It'd be good to use the slanting forefoot to encourage the chain lower and further aft. Ideally all that weight should be under the mast. Getting it any closer than the forward end of the vee berth is a benefit. JC 2
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