Cotter Pins or rings?

[Bob S]

I had a few hardware questions for the group.
1) Anyone see an issue using cotter rings instead of cotter pins on our rigging?
2) I was shopping for a long D-shackle that I lost on my furler. I've had a hard time sizing it to match the one I have (didn't loose). It's a 1/4 x 1/2 x 1-3/8. Defender has one that might work made from 316SST and another made from 17-4 SST which is stronger. Can 17-4 stainless rust?

 

[RichH]

Go with the 17-4 as its Fatigue Endurance Limit (~60,000 psi) is nearly twice the endurance limit of the 300 series stainless (~30,000 psi).

Fatigue Endurance Limit is the maximum value for when applying such to cyclically loaded components in Contrast to the Ultimate Tensile Strength values which is valid for a ductile failure mode under a singly or continuously applied load.

Just about any SS can 'rust' ... it all depends on the quality of the surface finish (polish, etc.).

 

[higgs]

I like the rings better than cotter pins because there are no sharp edges.

 

[Ross]

I replaced the cotter pins with rings because the ends of the cotters were snagging lines and me.

 

[sailaway78]

Go with the rings

I hate cotter pins. They have ends that can and do snag everything that gets close to them. The will cut you pretty good under some circumstances. And removal is much, much easier.

 

[dscribner]

Rings are better than pins excpet for one reason. The are patently suicidal, always throwing themselves into the waves, to Davey Jones' locker. I think the pins talked them into it.

 

[Les]

Just a suggestion that I got from Brion Toss, a respected rigger in these parts--get stainless steel welding rods the size of the openings in your turnbuckles. Make a square letter "C" so that it goes through both ends at the same time. Fold back the ends against the turnbuckle. Don't tape as stainless loses strength without oxygen. This methods looks good and is easy to do

 

[RECESS]

In one of the latest issues of Good Old Boat there is a how to on making turnbuckle Velcro pins. Using double sided Velcro straps and then epoxying a cotter pin in the end so the Velcro wraps around and secures it. The author had been using the same set for two years with no UV degrading.

 

[Roger Long]

Just a suggestion that I got from Brion Toss, a respected rigger in these parts--get stainless steel welding rods the size of the openings in your turnbuckles.

I do this. It works as well as you would expect an idea from someone like Toss to work and looks great. No fouling, no tape, lines run freely over the turnbuckles.

A lifetime supply of the welding rod, for a young person, is about 20 bucks. It's useful for all sorts of other things.

Only way to go.

 

[BobM]

All right....

Just a suggestion that I got from Brion Toss, a respected rigger in these parts--get stainless steel welding rods the size of the openings in your turnbuckles. Make a square letter "C" so that it goes through both ends at the same time. Fold back the ends against the turnbuckle. Don't tape as stainless loses strength without oxygen. This methods looks good and is easy to do

I need to see a photo of this or a better description. Is the rod going through the holes in the turnbuckle the pins go through or through the turnbuckle? Then you fold them over? what about the ends? I'd be tempted to tape them at least. Photos?

 

[Roger Long]

Photos?

I'll try and get one for you. Too bad I didn't see this before I went sailing today. I took the camera.

It's pretty simple though. You bend a piece of welding rod into an "]" shape with pliers so the length matches the distance between the cotter pin holes in the ends of the two threaded studs. You then stick the short ends in and cut them to a length that will let you just bend them up and around and push the ends inside the turnbuckle body where they can't snag anything.