I've seen several larger sailboats with outboards on the stern. Is this effective? Can it be removed and placed below? If it is an effective way to motor in-out of harbor, what would be the proper setup for a: '78 33ft Hunter? Boat needs work, and if a quick jobby can get me daysailing....I'd be all smiles.
- Status
Huntin and outboard
Neil, Sure it can be done, it is all the time. I once had a steel cutter 36ft 7 or 8 ton, and I pulled the Albin engine from her, and as we were rebuilding it, I decided to put a bracket and an outboard. The outbaord I had was a brittish Seagull, either a four or and eight horse, I think a four, with out reverse. Worked for me to sail all over the bay and fired it up to get back into the slip. OUtboards do not work too well in a seaway. They are not deep enough to bite all the time, ane so are reving up then down etc. A 9.9 Yamaha will push your yacht along nicely on a bracket, a fifteen is a bit too heavy, and the 2 cycles are lighter.
Neil, Sure it can be done, it is all the time. I once had a steel cutter 36ft 7 or 8 ton, and I pulled the Albin engine from her, and as we were rebuilding it, I decided to put a bracket and an outboard. The outbaord I had was a brittish Seagull, either a four or and eight horse, I think a four, with out reverse. Worked for me to sail all over the bay and fired it up to get back into the slip. OUtboards do not work too well in a seaway. They are not deep enough to bite all the time, ane so are reving up then down etc. A 9.9 Yamaha will push your yacht along nicely on a bracket, a fifteen is a bit too heavy, and the 2 cycles are lighter.
Inside for outboard
Neil, If you do this, use some ply wood with backing plates or large washers on the inside. Silicone will work as a waterproof bond for the holes, and it is easy to clean out if you decide to take it off and go back to an inboard engine.
Neil, If you do this, use some ply wood with backing plates or large washers on the inside. Silicone will work as a waterproof bond for the holes, and it is easy to clean out if you decide to take it off and go back to an inboard engine.
Cap't Ron, I try not to be too disagreeable
here but this is one time that I must disagree with you. Silicone caulk NEVER goes away after it has been used. You can't paint over it, epoxy won't bond to a surface that is contaminated with silicone. You must grind it away in order to be free of it. Any other primium caulk is prefered.
here but this is one time that I must disagree with you. Silicone caulk NEVER goes away after it has been used. You can't paint over it, epoxy won't bond to a surface that is contaminated with silicone. You must grind it away in order to be free of it. Any other primium caulk is prefered.
Agree Silicone & 5200 Bad...
Those are two products that don't set foot on my boat. Nothing will stick to silicone and nothing but sanding or grinding will get rid of it. 5200 is far to adhesive and not necessary except for a hull to deck joint. Even a keel will eventually need to be re-set, mine did, and they had to cut through the 5200 wit a sawzall to get my keel to drop!
Those are two products that don't set foot on my boat. Nothing will stick to silicone and nothing but sanding or grinding will get rid of it. 5200 is far to adhesive and not necessary except for a hull to deck joint. Even a keel will eventually need to be re-set, mine did, and they had to cut through the 5200 wit a sawzall to get my keel to drop!
I pushed a 30 footer for years with a 9.9 long
shaft Mercury mounted on a bracket for raising and lowering. If you got the dough get an electric start with an alternator, you won't regret it. So glad to hear some others find silicones limited suitability. I use polyurethanes for just about everything. You guys are right on, once silicone has touched it, it's contaminated forever till the surface is removed. Maybe silicone should be marketed as bottom paint
shaft Mercury mounted on a bracket for raising and lowering. If you got the dough get an electric start with an alternator, you won't regret it. So glad to hear some others find silicones limited suitability. I use polyurethanes for just about everything. You guys are right on, once silicone has touched it, it's contaminated forever till the surface is removed. Maybe silicone should be marketed as bottom paint
Boys will be boys...
Arrrgh, sounds like I got to someone, err two someones here bouts, naw dont let 'em aboard them foot prints ull be hell gittin off yer deck. Fisrtly check out: www.diy-boat.com The Marine Maintence magazine, under "ask the experts" on the first page there are two articles, on expounding on using 5200 and next on sealing leaks on a Hunter with silicone. Now you boys don't remember the days before these products, I do, and the militarywas the first to use silicone on everything, toothpaste, haircream... I use to carry silicone when doing deliverys 30 yrs ugh! And Ross I know you are a serious guy d quite helpful to the mates, but I don't see a point here. I ahve cleanedup silicone with goof off before, and acetone does it nicely too, and I have indeed glassed over where I'd had a 'temp' silicone patch. It is not strong, but is waterproof and peels right off whnce you want to do soemthing else to your psoject. 5200 will indeed come off ane there are produts that do, I didn't have them when in the out islands and had to pull my mast partners, but I got it out. Who but a complete fool will tellyou a keel is not to be permanently mounted? Give unto Ceasar....
Arrrgh, sounds like I got to someone, err two someones here bouts, naw dont let 'em aboard them foot prints ull be hell gittin off yer deck. Fisrtly check out: www.diy-boat.com The Marine Maintence magazine, under "ask the experts" on the first page there are two articles, on expounding on using 5200 and next on sealing leaks on a Hunter with silicone. Now you boys don't remember the days before these products, I do, and the militarywas the first to use silicone on everything, toothpaste, haircream... I use to carry silicone when doing deliverys 30 yrs ugh! And Ross I know you are a serious guy d quite helpful to the mates, but I don't see a point here. I ahve cleanedup silicone with goof off before, and acetone does it nicely too, and I have indeed glassed over where I'd had a 'temp' silicone patch. It is not strong, but is waterproof and peels right off whnce you want to do soemthing else to your psoject. 5200 will indeed come off ane there are produts that do, I didn't have them when in the out islands and had to pull my mast partners, but I got it out. Who but a complete fool will tellyou a keel is not to be permanently mounted? Give unto Ceasar....
Ron, I have been around longer than
silicone caulk. so don't pull the oldtimer routine . There are far better choices and it is poor practice to recommend any material that has more problems attached to it than benefits.
silicone caulk. so don't pull the oldtimer routine . There are far better choices and it is poor practice to recommend any material that has more problems attached to it than benefits.
Outboard Operation
Seems like the slope and depth of the transom on the old 33 could work with a lifting type outboard bracket like the one I used wuth a 9.9 on my old '79 Hunter 25 but it would be a long reaach to operate in the 'down' position. A couple points to be made: presumably the steering needs to be thru your wheel steering and the outboard needs to be fixed straight ahead; the throttle control and choke need to be brought within reeach of the helm; and lastly, an electric start might be bettter than hanging upside down thru the stern pulpit pulling a rope starter. Operationally, you needa place for a GAS tank in the cockpit where fumes don't end up in the boat, and in any kind of wave action the rise and fall of the transom may cause an outboard's prop to cavitate. You probably need a 15 hp and look at glassing in plywood reinforcements behind the existing fiberglass to hold the outboard bracket bolts.
Seems like the slope and depth of the transom on the old 33 could work with a lifting type outboard bracket like the one I used wuth a 9.9 on my old '79 Hunter 25 but it would be a long reaach to operate in the 'down' position. A couple points to be made: presumably the steering needs to be thru your wheel steering and the outboard needs to be fixed straight ahead; the throttle control and choke need to be brought within reeach of the helm; and lastly, an electric start might be bettter than hanging upside down thru the stern pulpit pulling a rope starter. Operationally, you needa place for a GAS tank in the cockpit where fumes don't end up in the boat, and in any kind of wave action the rise and fall of the transom may cause an outboard's prop to cavitate. You probably need a 15 hp and look at glassing in plywood reinforcements behind the existing fiberglass to hold the outboard bracket bolts.
Call me a fool if you want..
but when keel bolts start leaking it's time for a keel reset period. Keels are not permanent! If you hit the bottom moving at any type of speed the correct fix is a total re-set. Sure you can band aid it like most boat yards and cheap owners do but it's just that a band aid. Drive around to any boat yard in the winter and check out the number of boats with water seeping out of the keel joint! The number is alarming. The people who try and do a band aid patch from the outside are just traping moisture inside the stub leading to keel bolt crevice corosion. Maybe in your ignorant bliss you have never cared if your keel was sealed properly but I do. I have had to do a keel re-set as have thousands of other boaters. My boat yard does three to four a year and probably should be doing more like 30 from the looks of leaking keel joints! 5200 is not as flexible as many aspouse it to be that's why mine cracked over time, I never hit bottom just the flex of the hull and winter storage, this caused the 5200 to fail allowing water to find it's way to my keel bolts. If it had been flexible this would not have hapened. That keel was re-bedded 12 years ago now using Sikaflex and it's still perfect. It failed with the original 5200 in six years. There are far better products than 5200!
but when keel bolts start leaking it's time for a keel reset period. Keels are not permanent! If you hit the bottom moving at any type of speed the correct fix is a total re-set. Sure you can band aid it like most boat yards and cheap owners do but it's just that a band aid. Drive around to any boat yard in the winter and check out the number of boats with water seeping out of the keel joint! The number is alarming. The people who try and do a band aid patch from the outside are just traping moisture inside the stub leading to keel bolt crevice corosion. Maybe in your ignorant bliss you have never cared if your keel was sealed properly but I do. I have had to do a keel re-set as have thousands of other boaters. My boat yard does three to four a year and probably should be doing more like 30 from the looks of leaking keel joints! 5200 is not as flexible as many aspouse it to be that's why mine cracked over time, I never hit bottom just the flex of the hull and winter storage, this caused the 5200 to fail allowing water to find it's way to my keel bolts. If it had been flexible this would not have hapened. That keel was re-bedded 12 years ago now using Sikaflex and it's still perfect. It failed with the original 5200 in six years. There are far better products than 5200!
One thing that I learned from
experience is that if a caulking compound claims that it will allow 50% joint movement and the joint is tight, then 50 percent of almost nothing is very little. We like to keep gaps small and we should, but a 1/16 inch gap will tolerate only 1/32 inch of movement. The natural movement of a boat will require the most flexable of caulking compounds not always the most tenacious.
experience is that if a caulking compound claims that it will allow 50% joint movement and the joint is tight, then 50 percent of almost nothing is very little. We like to keep gaps small and we should, but a 1/16 inch gap will tolerate only 1/32 inch of movement. The natural movement of a boat will require the most flexable of caulking compounds not always the most tenacious.
- Status