I just got a brand new Nissan 8 hp 4 stroke outboard for my Hunter 23.5. The owners manual is very vague about oil selection, only showing a chart listing everything between 10W30 - 15W50. What weight oil would be appropriate for this motor? It will be run in high temperatures here in SW Florida. Also, any brand recommendations? I am assuming that any automotive oil (Castrol, Pennzoil, etc)would be fine. Thanks!
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10W40
For your 4-stroke Nissan outboard, you should use Genuine Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil. Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil has been specially formulated to handle the higher RPM's that outboards are subjected to, as well as special rust inhibitors to combat the harsh operating conditions of the marine environment. Genuine Nissan Marine Oil reduces friction & wear and ensures the internal components are properly lubricated for optimum performance. If Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil is not available we recommend using a 4-cycle oil formulated for use in outboard engines. An automotive engine oil with a rating of SAE10W-40 (API Grade SG, SF, SH or SJ) may be substituted. Your Nissan 4-stroke outboard is equipped with an Engine Oil Warning Lamp. When the warning lamp is off, it indicates that sufficient oil pressure is present. If the warning lamp is on (red light is on) or blinking on/off, immediately shut down your outboard and check the oil level. Replenish as needed. If the oil level is at the appropriate level and the light continues to stay on or blink, consult your local dealer for assistance (do not use your outboard until a dealer has corrected the problem). You may notice the engine oil warning lamp come on when you first start your outboard. This is normal and should go off after a few seconds. For your 2-stroke (Nissan) outboard, be sure and use only 2-cycle outboard oil, with an NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) certified rating of TCW3. Never, never, never use automobile oil in your 2-stroke outboard. TLDI outboards should only be run using TCW3 oil specifically formulated for use in Direct Injection motors. Standard TCW3 oil is not recommended for use in TLDI outboards. The following oils have been tested by our factory and certified for use in TLDI motors: Nissan Marine Premium Oil Tohatsu Premium Oil Pennzoil Complete Marine Synthetic Pennzoil Semi-Synthetic Outboard Oil Mercury Optimax/DFI Oil Yamaha Yamalube 2-M Semi-Synthetic Injector Oil Bombardier RAM Ficht Oil See the NISSAN Outboard FAQ’s @: http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/faqs.html
For your 4-stroke Nissan outboard, you should use Genuine Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil. Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil has been specially formulated to handle the higher RPM's that outboards are subjected to, as well as special rust inhibitors to combat the harsh operating conditions of the marine environment. Genuine Nissan Marine Oil reduces friction & wear and ensures the internal components are properly lubricated for optimum performance. If Nissan Marine 4-Cycle Oil is not available we recommend using a 4-cycle oil formulated for use in outboard engines. An automotive engine oil with a rating of SAE10W-40 (API Grade SG, SF, SH or SJ) may be substituted. Your Nissan 4-stroke outboard is equipped with an Engine Oil Warning Lamp. When the warning lamp is off, it indicates that sufficient oil pressure is present. If the warning lamp is on (red light is on) or blinking on/off, immediately shut down your outboard and check the oil level. Replenish as needed. If the oil level is at the appropriate level and the light continues to stay on or blink, consult your local dealer for assistance (do not use your outboard until a dealer has corrected the problem). You may notice the engine oil warning lamp come on when you first start your outboard. This is normal and should go off after a few seconds. For your 2-stroke (Nissan) outboard, be sure and use only 2-cycle outboard oil, with an NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) certified rating of TCW3. Never, never, never use automobile oil in your 2-stroke outboard. TLDI outboards should only be run using TCW3 oil specifically formulated for use in Direct Injection motors. Standard TCW3 oil is not recommended for use in TLDI outboards. The following oils have been tested by our factory and certified for use in TLDI motors: Nissan Marine Premium Oil Tohatsu Premium Oil Pennzoil Complete Marine Synthetic Pennzoil Semi-Synthetic Outboard Oil Mercury Optimax/DFI Oil Yamaha Yamalube 2-M Semi-Synthetic Injector Oil Bombardier RAM Ficht Oil See the NISSAN Outboard FAQ’s @: http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/faqs.html
Hey Gord
I've got the same thing 8 hp 4st Tohatsu. I keep the boat in the water and have a question - is it OK to flush the motor in the "up" position, with the prop and intake out of the water? Wondering if the "earmuffs" are allowing river crud to mix with the clean hose water. What do you think? TKs. Drew
I've got the same thing 8 hp 4st Tohatsu. I keep the boat in the water and have a question - is it OK to flush the motor in the "up" position, with the prop and intake out of the water? Wondering if the "earmuffs" are allowing river crud to mix with the clean hose water. What do you think? TKs. Drew
I wouldn't run it in the up position
It's not designed to run in that position. Try hanging a 5 gallon bucket when it's in the down position to separate the clean water from the funky water, just don't put it in gear with the lower unit in the bucket. If the bucket isn't tall enough use a plastic kitchen trash can.
It's not designed to run in that position. Try hanging a 5 gallon bucket when it's in the down position to separate the clean water from the funky water, just don't put it in gear with the lower unit in the bucket. If the bucket isn't tall enough use a plastic kitchen trash can.
Flush DOWN
Remembering that I’m NOT a mechanic ... I would NEVER run the outboard in the “tilted” up position. As Ruedi said, it's not meant to run in that position. With the 5 - 140 hp outboard you can use the optional “flushing plug” which can be attached to a hose for flushing the engine with fresh water or with a set of “ear muffs”. I wouldn’t expect any danger of foul water “infiltration”, if using the flush plug attachment (it threads in) If using the “earmuuffs”, adjust the fresh water pressure so that just a little water is exiting around the perimeter of the muff cups. This will insure against infiltration, and adequate cooling water flow. The flush water, exiting the water pump exit, should be warm - not hot. Nissan Owner’s Manuals available on-line: http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/owners_manuals.html Notes: 1. Most manufacturers recommend removing the propeller, prior to flushing. 2. Water pump impellers are made from rubber and will deteriorate over time even without being used (commonly referred to as "dry rot"); this can be just as damaging to your water pump as wear and tear. Many manufacturers recommend changing the impeller yearly. 3. I’ve used the “bucket” method for flushing when out of water - but don’t normally recommend it. Unless you also use the earmuffs or plug, you will be recirculating flushwater through the water jacket. HTH, Gord
Remembering that I’m NOT a mechanic ... I would NEVER run the outboard in the “tilted” up position. As Ruedi said, it's not meant to run in that position. With the 5 - 140 hp outboard you can use the optional “flushing plug” which can be attached to a hose for flushing the engine with fresh water or with a set of “ear muffs”. I wouldn’t expect any danger of foul water “infiltration”, if using the flush plug attachment (it threads in) If using the “earmuuffs”, adjust the fresh water pressure so that just a little water is exiting around the perimeter of the muff cups. This will insure against infiltration, and adequate cooling water flow. The flush water, exiting the water pump exit, should be warm - not hot. Nissan Owner’s Manuals available on-line: http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/owners_manuals.html Notes: 1. Most manufacturers recommend removing the propeller, prior to flushing. 2. Water pump impellers are made from rubber and will deteriorate over time even without being used (commonly referred to as "dry rot"); this can be just as damaging to your water pump as wear and tear. Many manufacturers recommend changing the impeller yearly. 3. I’ve used the “bucket” method for flushing when out of water - but don’t normally recommend it. Unless you also use the earmuffs or plug, you will be recirculating flushwater through the water jacket. HTH, Gord
Why remove the prop?
Is it just a "safety" thing to remove the prop when flushing, or is there an actual mechanical reason to do this? It seems like a PITA to pull the prop just to flush the motor.
Is it just a "safety" thing to remove the prop when flushing, or is there an actual mechanical reason to do this? It seems like a PITA to pull the prop just to flush the motor.
Yep - safety
Just a "safety" & liability (I suspect)issue - can't think of any mechanical reason (remember to flush in Neutral)
Just a "safety" & liability (I suspect)issue - can't think of any mechanical reason (remember to flush in Neutral)
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