Sailers know warm soda, sandwiches and beer suck.
In warm weather, without mechanical refrigeration, on a one, two or three day cruise, store bought coolers don't cut it - unless of course you pack more ice - than provisions.
The problem is not simply the ratio of provisions vs. ice. It is the R-factor of the cooler! Most coolers have 1/2" to 1-1/4" wall thickness. The lids are usually hollow having NO insulation. We assume the perimeter and bottom void is filled with some R-valued insulation, typically injected between the inner and outer plastic or steel shapes that form the cooler.
In restoring my 1976 C-22, I'd like a "built-in" fridge of some sort and stowing a cooler isn't viable - IMO.
2" thick, rigid, construction foam is used in the trades as a wall, floor and roofing insulator. It cuts easily on a table saw, Sawzall, or utility knife to conform to any shape, and is easily glued with 3M spray adhesive. The R-value of that insulating foam is 2 to 3 times greater than most coolers.
I cannot be the only person that has thought of using this material for a "built-in" cooler and was hoping I just didn't search the correct terms to get a "hit."
The stuff is cheap, superior to any cooler R-value I'm aware of and could be contoured for hull curvature to maximize flush mounting to almost any shape. Gluing two, 2" thick panels together, would keep beer cold for a year
If no one's done this already, I'm surprised. Which compartment I build it in, and exactly how - is still the work in progress... But this I know: the R-value is key; and I plan on cold beer - after 3-days out and 2" thick, rigid, foam is the material I'll be using.
In warm weather, without mechanical refrigeration, on a one, two or three day cruise, store bought coolers don't cut it - unless of course you pack more ice - than provisions.
The problem is not simply the ratio of provisions vs. ice. It is the R-factor of the cooler! Most coolers have 1/2" to 1-1/4" wall thickness. The lids are usually hollow having NO insulation. We assume the perimeter and bottom void is filled with some R-valued insulation, typically injected between the inner and outer plastic or steel shapes that form the cooler.
In restoring my 1976 C-22, I'd like a "built-in" fridge of some sort and stowing a cooler isn't viable - IMO.
2" thick, rigid, construction foam is used in the trades as a wall, floor and roofing insulator. It cuts easily on a table saw, Sawzall, or utility knife to conform to any shape, and is easily glued with 3M spray adhesive. The R-value of that insulating foam is 2 to 3 times greater than most coolers.
I cannot be the only person that has thought of using this material for a "built-in" cooler and was hoping I just didn't search the correct terms to get a "hit."
The stuff is cheap, superior to any cooler R-value I'm aware of and could be contoured for hull curvature to maximize flush mounting to almost any shape. Gluing two, 2" thick panels together, would keep beer cold for a year
If no one's done this already, I'm surprised. Which compartment I build it in, and exactly how - is still the work in progress... But this I know: the R-value is key; and I plan on cold beer - after 3-days out and 2" thick, rigid, foam is the material I'll be using.
