We have a Catalina 387 with a Raritan electric head. It is set up for raw water flushing and we would like to set it up for a fresh water flush. (our last boat had a fresh water flush and we got spoiled I guess) The holding tank is mounted on the starboard side in a compartment against the hull in the shower. (there is a door for easy access to the holding tank.) The discharge hose from the head to the tank is very short however it does have to go uphill for a short length to get to the holding tank. The raw water thru hull is located under the head sink. Is there a feasible way to go from the fresh water line that leads to the sink and join it up with the intake for the head? Thanks for any suggestions that you might have.
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We have a Catalina 387 with a Raritan electric head. It is set up for raw water flushing and we would like to set it up for a fresh water flush. (our last boat had a fresh water flush and we got spoiled I guess) The holding tank is mounted on the starboard side in a compartment against the hull in the shower. (there is a door for easy access to the holding tank.) The discharge hose from the head to the tank is very short however it does have to go uphill for a short length to get to the holding tank. The raw water thru hull is located under the head sink. Is there a feasible way to go from the fresh water line that leads to the sink and join it up with the intake for the head? Thanks for any suggestions that you might have.
Easy way to do this
There is a very easy way to accomplish your goal here without the hassle of adding in a separate fresh water system used just for flushing. Do not plumb fresh water directly to the intake line of the bowl from your boat’s main fresh water tanks – you will probably end of contaminating your fresh water system by allowing backflow waste-water to enter the system via the joker valve on the bowl. This is what I did on my Catalina 30: The raw-water intake line is for the head located just under the sink as you mentioned yours is. I simply put a “T” connector on the seacock and plumbed both my head-sink drain and the intake line for the bowl from that T on the same seacock. I rarely open the seacock – allowing salt water into the head system just increases the amount of odor that could arise from those sea-critters. I instruct everyone on-board that after they complete their business – First wash your hands in the sink and Then flush. The head sucks in the fresh-soapy water from the sink drain and keeps those critters out of the system. The system on my boat stays amazingly clean and odor free not to mention how easy it is to clean-out and winterize come winter. It works great and was one of the easiest jobs in the world – probably under $10 in materials from any hardware store. Good Luck - Rob
There is a very easy way to accomplish your goal here without the hassle of adding in a separate fresh water system used just for flushing. Do not plumb fresh water directly to the intake line of the bowl from your boat’s main fresh water tanks – you will probably end of contaminating your fresh water system by allowing backflow waste-water to enter the system via the joker valve on the bowl. This is what I did on my Catalina 30: The raw-water intake line is for the head located just under the sink as you mentioned yours is. I simply put a “T” connector on the seacock and plumbed both my head-sink drain and the intake line for the bowl from that T on the same seacock. I rarely open the seacock – allowing salt water into the head system just increases the amount of odor that could arise from those sea-critters. I instruct everyone on-board that after they complete their business – First wash your hands in the sink and Then flush. The head sucks in the fresh-soapy water from the sink drain and keeps those critters out of the system. The system on my boat stays amazingly clean and odor free not to mention how easy it is to clean-out and winterize come winter. It works great and was one of the easiest jobs in the world – probably under $10 in materials from any hardware store. Good Luck - Rob
Easy way to do this
There is a very easy way to accomplish your goal here without the hassle of adding in a separate fresh water system used just for flushing. Do not plumb fresh water directly to the intake line of the bowl from your boat’s main fresh water tanks – you will probably end of contaminating your fresh water system by allowing backflow waste-water to enter the system via the joker valve on the bowl. This is what I did on my Catalina 30: The raw-water intake line is for the head located just under the sink as you mentioned yours is. I simply put a “T” connector on the seacock and plumbed both my head-sink drain and the intake line for the bowl from that T on the same seacock. I rarely open the seacock – allowing salt water into the head system just increases the amount of odor that could arise from those sea-critters. I instruct everyone on-board that after they complete their business – First wash your hands in the sink and Then flush. The head sucks in the fresh-soapy water from the sink drain and keeps those critters out of the system. The system on my boat stays amazingly clean and odor free not to mention how easy it is to clean-out and winterize come winter. It works great and was one of the easiest jobs in the world – probably under $10 in materials from any hardware store. Good Luck - Rob
There is a very easy way to accomplish your goal here without the hassle of adding in a separate fresh water system used just for flushing. Do not plumb fresh water directly to the intake line of the bowl from your boat’s main fresh water tanks – you will probably end of contaminating your fresh water system by allowing backflow waste-water to enter the system via the joker valve on the bowl. This is what I did on my Catalina 30: The raw-water intake line is for the head located just under the sink as you mentioned yours is. I simply put a “T” connector on the seacock and plumbed both my head-sink drain and the intake line for the bowl from that T on the same seacock. I rarely open the seacock – allowing salt water into the head system just increases the amount of odor that could arise from those sea-critters. I instruct everyone on-board that after they complete their business – First wash your hands in the sink and Then flush. The head sucks in the fresh-soapy water from the sink drain and keeps those critters out of the system. The system on my boat stays amazingly clean and odor free not to mention how easy it is to clean-out and winterize come winter. It works great and was one of the easiest jobs in the world – probably under $10 in materials from any hardware store. Good Luck - Rob
Neat idea
Rob, Neat idea. What if you are using the sink for other reasons? Brushing teeth, general cleaning, ect. Does it all go into the head?
Rob, Neat idea. What if you are using the sink for other reasons? Brushing teeth, general cleaning, ect. Does it all go into the head?
Neat idea
Rob, Neat idea. What if you are using the sink for other reasons? Brushing teeth, general cleaning, ect. Does it all go into the head?
Rob, Neat idea. What if you are using the sink for other reasons? Brushing teeth, general cleaning, ect. Does it all go into the head?
Rob gave you good advice
NEVER connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system...it can't be done without risk of contaminating the fresh water, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can be safely connected to the fresh water system. If your toilet is a macerating electric that has an integral impeller intake pump, do NOT just close the seacock and pour water into the bowl to flush. Doing that will first fry the intake impeller and then destroy the intake pump altogether. So your options are 1. Tee the head intake line into the head sink drain as Rob suggested...2. Install a separate flush water tank that isn't connected to the fresh water supply in any way, not even to fill it...or 3. Replace the toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water. There is an easy way to install a separate flush water tank: Stuff a small (5-6 gal) UNvented bladder into any space that's convenient to both the head and the head sink drain....Using a y-valve (a plastic garden hose wye connector will work for this application), connect the bladder fill line to the head sink drain line...connect the head intake line to the bladder. No other plumbing or vent line required. To fill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder, run water down the sink. Switch the y-valve back to drain sink water overboard. Replacing the toilet with one designed to use pressurized water is the most expensive option, but has its advantages: toilets designed to use pressurized flush water are VERY quiet--even quieter than most household toilets--and use at least 1/3 less power and 1/3 less flush water than most raw water electric macerating toilet...the difference is even greater if your toilet is the PHE II (manual PH II with a motor attached) or the Jabsco conversion. However, the simplest solution is the one Rob suggested: tee the head intake line into the head sink drain line. If you want to flush with fresh water all the time, fill the sink first. However, if you want to flush with sea water, you can rinse all the sea water out of the system by simply filling the sink with fresh water after you've closed all the seacocks...flush the toilet.
NEVER connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system...it can't be done without risk of contaminating the fresh water, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can be safely connected to the fresh water system. If your toilet is a macerating electric that has an integral impeller intake pump, do NOT just close the seacock and pour water into the bowl to flush. Doing that will first fry the intake impeller and then destroy the intake pump altogether. So your options are 1. Tee the head intake line into the head sink drain as Rob suggested...2. Install a separate flush water tank that isn't connected to the fresh water supply in any way, not even to fill it...or 3. Replace the toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water. There is an easy way to install a separate flush water tank: Stuff a small (5-6 gal) UNvented bladder into any space that's convenient to both the head and the head sink drain....Using a y-valve (a plastic garden hose wye connector will work for this application), connect the bladder fill line to the head sink drain line...connect the head intake line to the bladder. No other plumbing or vent line required. To fill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder, run water down the sink. Switch the y-valve back to drain sink water overboard. Replacing the toilet with one designed to use pressurized water is the most expensive option, but has its advantages: toilets designed to use pressurized flush water are VERY quiet--even quieter than most household toilets--and use at least 1/3 less power and 1/3 less flush water than most raw water electric macerating toilet...the difference is even greater if your toilet is the PHE II (manual PH II with a motor attached) or the Jabsco conversion. However, the simplest solution is the one Rob suggested: tee the head intake line into the head sink drain line. If you want to flush with fresh water all the time, fill the sink first. However, if you want to flush with sea water, you can rinse all the sea water out of the system by simply filling the sink with fresh water after you've closed all the seacocks...flush the toilet.
Rob gave you good advice
NEVER connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system...it can't be done without risk of contaminating the fresh water, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can be safely connected to the fresh water system. If your toilet is a macerating electric that has an integral impeller intake pump, do NOT just close the seacock and pour water into the bowl to flush. Doing that will first fry the intake impeller and then destroy the intake pump altogether. So your options are 1. Tee the head intake line into the head sink drain as Rob suggested...2. Install a separate flush water tank that isn't connected to the fresh water supply in any way, not even to fill it...or 3. Replace the toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water. There is an easy way to install a separate flush water tank: Stuff a small (5-6 gal) UNvented bladder into any space that's convenient to both the head and the head sink drain....Using a y-valve (a plastic garden hose wye connector will work for this application), connect the bladder fill line to the head sink drain line...connect the head intake line to the bladder. No other plumbing or vent line required. To fill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder, run water down the sink. Switch the y-valve back to drain sink water overboard. Replacing the toilet with one designed to use pressurized water is the most expensive option, but has its advantages: toilets designed to use pressurized flush water are VERY quiet--even quieter than most household toilets--and use at least 1/3 less power and 1/3 less flush water than most raw water electric macerating toilet...the difference is even greater if your toilet is the PHE II (manual PH II with a motor attached) or the Jabsco conversion. However, the simplest solution is the one Rob suggested: tee the head intake line into the head sink drain line. If you want to flush with fresh water all the time, fill the sink first. However, if you want to flush with sea water, you can rinse all the sea water out of the system by simply filling the sink with fresh water after you've closed all the seacocks...flush the toilet.
NEVER connect a raw water toilet to the fresh water system...it can't be done without risk of contaminating the fresh water, damage to the toilet, or both...and every toilet mfr specifically warns against it in their installation instructions. Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can be safely connected to the fresh water system. If your toilet is a macerating electric that has an integral impeller intake pump, do NOT just close the seacock and pour water into the bowl to flush. Doing that will first fry the intake impeller and then destroy the intake pump altogether. So your options are 1. Tee the head intake line into the head sink drain as Rob suggested...2. Install a separate flush water tank that isn't connected to the fresh water supply in any way, not even to fill it...or 3. Replace the toilet with one designed to use pressurized flush water. There is an easy way to install a separate flush water tank: Stuff a small (5-6 gal) UNvented bladder into any space that's convenient to both the head and the head sink drain....Using a y-valve (a plastic garden hose wye connector will work for this application), connect the bladder fill line to the head sink drain line...connect the head intake line to the bladder. No other plumbing or vent line required. To fill the bladder, open the y-valve to the bladder, run water down the sink. Switch the y-valve back to drain sink water overboard. Replacing the toilet with one designed to use pressurized water is the most expensive option, but has its advantages: toilets designed to use pressurized flush water are VERY quiet--even quieter than most household toilets--and use at least 1/3 less power and 1/3 less flush water than most raw water electric macerating toilet...the difference is even greater if your toilet is the PHE II (manual PH II with a motor attached) or the Jabsco conversion. However, the simplest solution is the one Rob suggested: tee the head intake line into the head sink drain line. If you want to flush with fresh water all the time, fill the sink first. However, if you want to flush with sea water, you can rinse all the sea water out of the system by simply filling the sink with fresh water after you've closed all the seacocks...flush the toilet.
Easier method
I have done it Peggie's way on another boat, and it works fine. An alternative is to simply move the raw water intake to a gallon "tank" of fresh water, and refill as needed at the kitchen sink. Depending on usage, we can go all day on a gallon of fresh water.
I have done it Peggie's way on another boat, and it works fine. An alternative is to simply move the raw water intake to a gallon "tank" of fresh water, and refill as needed at the kitchen sink. Depending on usage, we can go all day on a gallon of fresh water.
Easier method
I have done it Peggie's way on another boat, and it works fine. An alternative is to simply move the raw water intake to a gallon "tank" of fresh water, and refill as needed at the kitchen sink. Depending on usage, we can go all day on a gallon of fresh water.
I have done it Peggie's way on another boat, and it works fine. An alternative is to simply move the raw water intake to a gallon "tank" of fresh water, and refill as needed at the kitchen sink. Depending on usage, we can go all day on a gallon of fresh water.
It won't go into the toilet unless
the sink drain seacock is closed and the toilet is flushed. If the sink drain seacock is open, sink water will drain overboard. The toilet will also pull in sea water mixed with any water in the sink if the sink drain seacock is open when the toilet is flushed. If you want to flush a macerating electric toilet using the sink, you MUST fill the sink before flushing, and also be very careful not to continue flushing after the water is used up. Just running water down the drain instead doesn't supply enough water to prevent damage to the impeller. Don, if you use only a gallon a flush water all day, you aren't using anywhere NEAR enough water to rinse the waste out of the head discharge line. That's gonna result in a smelly permeated hose.
the sink drain seacock is closed and the toilet is flushed. If the sink drain seacock is open, sink water will drain overboard. The toilet will also pull in sea water mixed with any water in the sink if the sink drain seacock is open when the toilet is flushed. If you want to flush a macerating electric toilet using the sink, you MUST fill the sink before flushing, and also be very careful not to continue flushing after the water is used up. Just running water down the drain instead doesn't supply enough water to prevent damage to the impeller. Don, if you use only a gallon a flush water all day, you aren't using anywhere NEAR enough water to rinse the waste out of the head discharge line. That's gonna result in a smelly permeated hose.
It won't go into the toilet unless
the sink drain seacock is closed and the toilet is flushed. If the sink drain seacock is open, sink water will drain overboard. The toilet will also pull in sea water mixed with any water in the sink if the sink drain seacock is open when the toilet is flushed. If you want to flush a macerating electric toilet using the sink, you MUST fill the sink before flushing, and also be very careful not to continue flushing after the water is used up. Just running water down the drain instead doesn't supply enough water to prevent damage to the impeller. Don, if you use only a gallon a flush water all day, you aren't using anywhere NEAR enough water to rinse the waste out of the head discharge line. That's gonna result in a smelly permeated hose.
the sink drain seacock is closed and the toilet is flushed. If the sink drain seacock is open, sink water will drain overboard. The toilet will also pull in sea water mixed with any water in the sink if the sink drain seacock is open when the toilet is flushed. If you want to flush a macerating electric toilet using the sink, you MUST fill the sink before flushing, and also be very careful not to continue flushing after the water is used up. Just running water down the drain instead doesn't supply enough water to prevent damage to the impeller. Don, if you use only a gallon a flush water all day, you aren't using anywhere NEAR enough water to rinse the waste out of the head discharge line. That's gonna result in a smelly permeated hose.
Sink Drain
Don - yep, whatever goes into my sink ends up in the head when I flush it through. When there is anything I don't want in the head - I simply open the seacock and let it drain as it would normally. Very simple to do and keeps odors noticeably down. Highly recommend the upgrade! Read Peggy's book/site too - she really has is down to a science as to how to keep the system running odor-free.
Don - yep, whatever goes into my sink ends up in the head when I flush it through. When there is anything I don't want in the head - I simply open the seacock and let it drain as it would normally. Very simple to do and keeps odors noticeably down. Highly recommend the upgrade! Read Peggy's book/site too - she really has is down to a science as to how to keep the system running odor-free.
Sink Drain
Don - yep, whatever goes into my sink ends up in the head when I flush it through. When there is anything I don't want in the head - I simply open the seacock and let it drain as it would normally. Very simple to do and keeps odors noticeably down. Highly recommend the upgrade! Read Peggy's book/site too - she really has is down to a science as to how to keep the system running odor-free.
Don - yep, whatever goes into my sink ends up in the head when I flush it through. When there is anything I don't want in the head - I simply open the seacock and let it drain as it would normally. Very simple to do and keeps odors noticeably down. Highly recommend the upgrade! Read Peggy's book/site too - she really has is down to a science as to how to keep the system running odor-free.
Also see this
from yesterday: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=23&uid=73200280089&sku=2007136015137.60
from yesterday: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=23&uid=73200280089&sku=2007136015137.60
Also see this
from yesterday: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=23&uid=73200280089&sku=2007136015137.60
from yesterday: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=23&uid=73200280089&sku=2007136015137.60
Don (reply #2). Use a Garden Hose Y
I used a T and a garden hose Y available at any hardware/garden supply store. The Y has shutoff valves on two of the three arms. I put the T in the raw water intake which T's to one arm of the Y with a shut-off. The other arm of the Y with the shutoff goes to the sink drain thru-hull (which on my boat is above the water line). The arm of the Y without the shutoff goes to the sink drain. When I want to flush with sink water I close the arm to the sink drain thru-hull and open the arm to the raw water hose. If I want the sink to drain overboard I just open that arm of the Y and close the arm going to the raw water hose. To flush with raw water just leave the valves that way and open the raw water thru-hull. By the way, I put the T in the raw water hose close to the thru-hull so I can clear the hose of most all of the raw water when I want to. I hope this is followable but it works for me. I don't know how to attach a schematic. Caveat: Don't leave your below water thru hulls open and unattended.
I used a T and a garden hose Y available at any hardware/garden supply store. The Y has shutoff valves on two of the three arms. I put the T in the raw water intake which T's to one arm of the Y with a shut-off. The other arm of the Y with the shutoff goes to the sink drain thru-hull (which on my boat is above the water line). The arm of the Y without the shutoff goes to the sink drain. When I want to flush with sink water I close the arm to the sink drain thru-hull and open the arm to the raw water hose. If I want the sink to drain overboard I just open that arm of the Y and close the arm going to the raw water hose. To flush with raw water just leave the valves that way and open the raw water thru-hull. By the way, I put the T in the raw water hose close to the thru-hull so I can clear the hose of most all of the raw water when I want to. I hope this is followable but it works for me. I don't know how to attach a schematic. Caveat: Don't leave your below water thru hulls open and unattended.
Don (reply #2). Use a Garden Hose Y
I used a T and a garden hose Y available at any hardware/garden supply store. The Y has shutoff valves on two of the three arms. I put the T in the raw water intake which T's to one arm of the Y with a shut-off. The other arm of the Y with the shutoff goes to the sink drain thru-hull (which on my boat is above the water line). The arm of the Y without the shutoff goes to the sink drain. When I want to flush with sink water I close the arm to the sink drain thru-hull and open the arm to the raw water hose. If I want the sink to drain overboard I just open that arm of the Y and close the arm going to the raw water hose. To flush with raw water just leave the valves that way and open the raw water thru-hull. By the way, I put the T in the raw water hose close to the thru-hull so I can clear the hose of most all of the raw water when I want to. I hope this is followable but it works for me. I don't know how to attach a schematic. Caveat: Don't leave your below water thru hulls open and unattended.
I used a T and a garden hose Y available at any hardware/garden supply store. The Y has shutoff valves on two of the three arms. I put the T in the raw water intake which T's to one arm of the Y with a shut-off. The other arm of the Y with the shutoff goes to the sink drain thru-hull (which on my boat is above the water line). The arm of the Y without the shutoff goes to the sink drain. When I want to flush with sink water I close the arm to the sink drain thru-hull and open the arm to the raw water hose. If I want the sink to drain overboard I just open that arm of the Y and close the arm going to the raw water hose. To flush with raw water just leave the valves that way and open the raw water thru-hull. By the way, I put the T in the raw water hose close to the thru-hull so I can clear the hose of most all of the raw water when I want to. I hope this is followable but it works for me. I don't know how to attach a schematic. Caveat: Don't leave your below water thru hulls open and unattended.
That's exactly how I'd do it, Richard...
It's one of the few--maybe the only--applications in which a $3.95 plastic garden hose wye valve will work just fine.
It's one of the few--maybe the only--applications in which a $3.95 plastic garden hose wye valve will work just fine.
That's exactly how I'd do it, Richard...
It's one of the few--maybe the only--applications in which a $3.95 plastic garden hose wye valve will work just fine.
It's one of the few--maybe the only--applications in which a $3.95 plastic garden hose wye valve will work just fine.
- Status